IS250 No power but able to start by bypassing. Please help!

[ak250]

2005 is250 while parked and the car running everything cut off suddenly. No dash lights, ignition, horn etc.

AA mechanic said power isn't going from the Battery to the fuse board. To start the car he had to connect a live driect from the Battery (see attached photo). 

This is the report from the AA: Vehicle has lost power to fuse board suspect bad conection under engine bay fuse box got vehicle started and followed customer to home adress found alternator not charging advised customer that vehicle needs garage inspection why the alternator isnt charging Battery and to inspect fuse box/live wires Engine Oil Level Ok. Coolant Level Ok.

I had a mechanic tell me "It has a a fuse built in the fuse box which goes, you have to replace it or bypass it with a fuse in it." But he hasn't got back to me again.

Has anyone experienced this before or recommed a reliable mechanic/auto electrician in Birmingham please?

Any advice or suggestions appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[J Henderson]

Sounds like it could be a faulty fusible link.

Basically that large part housing all the relays, small fuses etc in front of the Battery acts like a giant fuse itself.

82620-30170 is the part number if it does need replaced.

 

[Herbie]

Am I the only one who finds this worrying?

It looks like the fuse has gone and the AA guy bypassed it??

Fuses are meant to be the weakest link in the chain and their purpose is to blow to protect anything downstream of said fuse. Bypassing it means that that protection is not there anymore.

[Texas]

Whatever caused the fusible link to fail ( if indeed it has) may cause major damage to expensive components if it happens again with the protection now removed ( shorted out with that beefy black cable in pic!)

Hopefully it could be something as simple as a loose connection ( unlikely though ) in the main busbar area.

[Sundance]

10 hours ago, Herbie said:

Am I the only one who finds this worrying?

It looks like the fuse has gone and the AA guy bypassed it??

Fuses are meant to be the weakest link in the chain and their purpose is to blow to protect anything downstream of said fuse. Bypassing it means that that protection is not there anymore.

I agree with you Herbie, just hope the AA guy doesn't have a sideline as an electrician 😲.

[Mr Vlad]

I'm sure someone on here had the same issue a few years ago. I can't remember the outcome. I suggest spend some time searching the forum. In the meantime I'd put a hefty fuse at the Battery end of that wire.

[ColinBarber]

Normally the main 150 Amp or 60 Amp fuses blow because the Battery is connected up the wrong way round. If you know you have done that then temporarily bypassing it to check for other faults isn't ideal but might save you having to make two trips to the dealer to get spare parts.

But for this to go whilst running then there clearly is a major problem and one that should be investigated rather than bypassing that fuse - there is a risk of fire or wiring damage if the fuse isn't there to protect the vehicle/battery.

[ak250]

15 hours ago, J Henderson said:

Sounds like it could be a faulty fusible link.

Basically that large part housing all the relays, small fuses etc in front of the battery acts like a giant fuse itself.

82620-30170 is the part number if it does need replaced.

 

Would I be able to see the damage if the fusible link is faulty, like it is blown?

Also as the AA mechanic said the alternator wasn't charging I wasn't sure which to tackle first. If I change the fusible link would it blow again if the alternator was the cause?

Thanks for your reply and the part number!

 

[ak250]

14 hours ago, Herbie said:

Am I the only one who finds this worrying?

It looks like the fuse has gone and the AA guy bypassed it??

Fuses are meant to be the weakest link in the chain and their purpose is to blow to protect anything downstream of said fuse. Bypassing it means that that protection is not there anymore.

I should have explained he did it to help diagnose the issue but said he ran out of time in trying to find out why there was no power going to the fuse board. 

Also he got the car started he realised the alternator wasn't charging so he disconnected that.

I was very close to home so he left it pybassed until I got it back and he removed it.

Thanks for your reply!

[ak250]

3 hours ago, Texas said:

Whatever caused the fusible link to fail ( if indeed it has) may cause major damage to expensive components if it happens again with the protection now removed ( shorted out with that beefy black cable in pic!)

Hopefully it could be something as simple as a loose connection ( unlikely though ) in the main busbar area.

I should have mentioned I only drove it a short while to get back home and not since but I was going to drive it if I needed to get it to a local garage (if I can find a knowledgeable trust worthy one!). You think I shouldn't risk starting it even? The alternator isn't connected.

Thanks for your reply!

 

 

 

[ak250]

3 hours ago, Sundance said:

I agree with you Herbie, just hope the AA guy doesn't have a sideline as an electrician 😲.

Lol I should have mentioned he didn't leave it like that as a fix but said he ran out of time and looked like he was trying hard!

Does anyone know how long they have to work on a car before giving up?

Thanks for the reply!

[ak250]

2 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

I'm sure someone on here had the same issue a few years ago. I can't remember the outcome. I suggest spend some time searching the forum. In the meantime I'd put a hefty fuse at the battery end of that wire.

I've been looking, no luck yet but I'll continue to look. My guess so far the alternator failed causing the fusible link to go.. anyone know if this is possible?

Thanks for the reply and suggestion of the hefty fuse I didn't think of that if I need to move it to a garage.. any suggestion of what size/type of fuse please?

[ak250]

2 hours ago, ColinBarber said:

Normally the main 150 Amp or 60 Amp fuses blow because the battery is connected up the wrong way round. If you know you have done that then temporarily bypassing it to check for other faults isn't ideal but might save you having to make two trips to the dealer to get spare parts.

But for this to go whilst running then there clearly is a major problem and one that should be investigated rather than bypassing that fuse - there is a risk of fire or wiring damage if the fuse isn't there to protect the vehicle/battery.

Definitely not connected the Battery wrong way around, not been touched for a while. 

Did I mention the only fuse the AA found blown was for the instrument panel. Should I still check the 150amp or 60amp fuses or any others?

AA guy did mention risk of fire etc and that he couldn't leave it bypassed but would follow me home... Being helpful or saving time not having to tow me?

Thanks for the reply and suggestion!

[ak250]

Update for anyone interested..

The alternator had failed causing the elec fault. The garage said the fuselink didn't blow because it had a poor elec repair previously and was wired incorrectly so it blew before the fuselink saving me having to replace. I had already purchased one including the fusebox and relays/fuses for £30. I still have this if anyone needs it.

Refurbished alternator fitted with 1 year guarantee for £170. £20 to repair the botch job on the fuselink.

The alternator/starter motor specialist I used..

https://www.facebook.com/Younas-Mobile-Auto-Electrician-starters-and-alternators-238630260036676/

The Lexus breaker I used said he is breaking a few is220d. I thought his price was very cheap as someone else quoted me £100 plus vat just for the fuselink.

https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/lexus-is220d-breaking-/1426616016

 

 

[J Henderson]

Nice result. Glad you got it sorted.

[Mr Vlad]

Excellent outcome and thanks for the update. It may well help someone.