GS450 3rd gen: Check VSC, Check ECB, Check Hybrid System

[Spock66]

13 hours ago, zeczec said:

Check System (tire pressure) from before for several weeks, so that's probably unrelated.

I used to have a Chrysler 300C and a faulty TPMS sensor (usually flat battery) was know to cause all kinds of weird fault codes.

[zeczec]

2 minutes ago, Spock66 said:

I used to have a Chrysler 300C and a faulty TPMS sensor (usually flat battery) was know to cause all kinds of weird fault codes.

That's very interesting... I'm hoping that the tpms will at least go once I get this main fault sorted.

[Herbie]

42 minutes ago, zeczec said:

as I do tend to sit and listen to stuff for extended periods on ACC mode

You need to be in READY mode so that the petrol engine can come on/go off when it needs to, to keep the batteries charged. They don't charge in ACC mode.

You also need to stop putting the car in Neutral because again, the batteries don't charge and the hybrid system doesn't work when in Neutral.

[Sherra]

+1 on do not put into neutral as stated above.

[Sherra]

Check system (tire pressure) is usually indicative of a faulty TPMS unit probably flat tpms Battery as opposed to flat tyre warning which is different on display.

[zeczec]

18 minutes ago, Sherra said:

+1 on do not put into neutral as stated above.

Understood. I never do it when it's charging. When it's charging I keep it in D, or put it into P and apply footbrake.

[Herbie]

38 minutes ago, zeczec said:

Understood. I never do it when it's charging. When it's charging I keep it in D, or put it into P and apply footbrake.

Not sure what you mean by "when it's charging" there Umar.

I'm talking about when you're out driving and maybe stood at a red light. Always keep it in D or if you know you won't be moving for a good few minutes you can put it in P, but just don't use N.

[zeczec]

2 minutes ago, Herbie said:

Not sure what you mean by "when it's charging" there Umar.

I'm talking about when you're out driving and maybe stood at a red light. Always keep it in D or if you know you won't be moving for a good few minutes you can put it in P, but just don't use N.

I mean from the central info display it shows when the engine is running and charging the Battery .. when that's the case I never put it in N.

But I do take your point going forward. On that note I have a question. If I put the car into P and it rolls slightly and then stops due to it being in P, is that bad for the car in any way? Or must I also apply the footbrake in conjunction?

[Spock66]

1 hour ago, zeczec said:

If I put the car into P and it rolls slightly and then stops due to it being in P, is that bad for the car in any way?

Certainly not best practice, not sure on a hybrid but certainly on a conventional automatic would be putting stress on the locking pawl.

[Herbie]

3 hours ago, zeczec said:

I mean from the central info display it shows when the engine is running and charging the battery .. when that's the case I never put it in N.

But I do take your point going forward. On that note I have a question. If I put the car into P and it rolls slightly and then stops due to it being in P, is that bad for the car in any way? Or must I also apply the footbrake in conjunction?

Simply keep the footbrake pressed down until you put it in Park and then let your foot off the brake.

[zeczec]

Ok good news. I've managed to do a techstream scan on my car and I have results to share along with screenshots. The main screen shot highlights problems in 6 areas, and I've listed these below along with the codes I found upon clicking further into them:

1) Hybrid Control

P0A0D-350 High Voltage System Inter-Lock Circuit High (detailed screenshot attached)
P0517-770 Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit High (detailed screenshot attached)

2) Engine and ECT

No codes listed, but I've attached the screenshot anyway

3) Tire Pressure Monitor System

C2121/2/3/4 Cannot Receive a Data from the Transmitter ID1/2/3/4
* Note that I had TPMS check system error from before this whole palava.

4) ABS/VSC/TRAC

C1259 HV Control System Regenerative Malfunction
C1310 HV System Malfunction

5) Air Conditioner

B1421 Solar Sensor Circuit (Passenger Side)
B1424 Solar Sensor Circuit (Driver Side)

6) Intuitive P/A

B2243 Current Steering Angle Midpoint Unset

These codes seem vastly different to the ones I got from the simple phone based OBD scanner I used before.

[zeczec]

Ah the wonders of Google. I decided to look up P0A0D and found that it is usually because the hybrid Battery fuse hadn't been replaced correctly. I checked and indeed that was exactly the case! I sorted it and hey presto... the car now engine now starts! Check hybrid system is still there but what's different now is that engine remains running... which is unlike before I changed my 12V Battery. The engine used to the just cut out after 5 seconds, or not fire up at all. So, a special thanks to @Herbie and others - you were right!

So, why the engine running, I decided to run techstream again. The ABS/VSC/TRAC have all disappeared but a new code has appeared under the Hybrid Control heading, and that is:

P2797-865 Auxiliary Transmission Oil Pump Driver (screenshot attached!).

So, could this be the root of it all? 

[zeczec]

Also, on the tiny screen behind the steering wheel, Check VSC and Check ECB have now disappeared. Check (tire pressure) System also no longer shows, but Low Pressure (tire) does instead. So just the 2 errors cyclically.

[zeczec]

Hi all, I've just had a thought. What are the chances of several errors occurring due to a knackered 12V Battery AND there being a genuine problem with the auxiliary transmission oil pump at the same time?

Do you think I should just reset the fault codes using techstream at this stage? Given that I've replaced my 12V Battery and the car actually does start and drive now (but without hybrid).

[Herbie]

2 hours ago, zeczec said:

Do you think I should just reset the fault codes using techstream at this stage? Given that I've replaced my 12V battery and the car actually does start and drive now (but without hybrid).

Clearing the codes is a good idea to see if anything comes back.

However, when you say "without hybrid" I think you've got yourself a bit confused because it's impossible for the car to start if it isn't in READY mode (hybrid system running).

Hybrids don't have starter motors. The start-up sequence is - foot on brake and press power button. The 12V Battery then boots the computers and brings the hybrid system online to light the READY mode indicator. You won't get very far before the hybrid system needs to fire up the petrol engine and it does that by energising MG1, which spins the engine to 1,000rpm before applying fuel and a spark to fire it.

If your car runs and drives then the hybrid system is working.

[zeczec]

New edited comment below (next)

[zeczec]

6 hours ago, Herbie said:

Clearing the codes is a good idea to see if anything comes back.

However, when you say "without hybrid" I think you've got yourself a bit confused because it's impossible for the car to start if it isn't in READY mode (hybrid system running).

Hybrids don't have starter motors. The start-up sequence is - foot on brake and press power button. The 12V battery then boots the computers and brings the hybrid system online to light the READY mode indicator. You won't get very far before the hybrid system needs to fire up the petrol engine and it does that by energising MG1, which spins the engine to 1,000rpm before applying fuel and a spark to fire it.

If your car runs and drives then the hybrid system is working.

Ah yes, that's a good point as there is no starter motor. Well I was able to drive yesterday but the central screen showed the Battery as isolated. No engine charge coming in, no power going out to the wheels from the Battery, and no regen coming in. Oddly, when these symptoms first ever happened, when I was on my way home, the regen was working then (but no engine charging Battery or Battery powering wheels.)

 

And the drive last night did feel underpowered. However, weirdly, I could hear the high pitched whine of the electric motor (the same sound Prius's have). When I attempted to come back home however, the car failed to remain in Ready (just like when I had my previous knackered 12V battery), and this happened twice. I waited a few mins before trying again, and it was third time lucky and I was able to drive back home. Other strange symptoms I'm still having are; I can only control my driver window from my door (can't raise/lower other windows), memory seat settings seem to have been wiped, and my previously disabled seatbelt buzzer has been re-enabled.

 

I shall have a go at resetting codes today and seeing what happens.

[Please excuse the bold text... don't know why it's happening and it won't turn off].

[Herbie]

The windows, the memory seats and so on just need to be reset; this always happens after the 12V Battery has been disconnected. Unfortunately I can't remember the reset procedure but either Google or your owners manual will have the info you need.

As for the other stuff that's happening, I'm really beginning to struggle about what to try next. It's all very odd.

All I can suggest now is, if there is still a problem, go for the cheapest fix first. In other words, look at any and all affected connectors and harnesses to check that they're all tight and clean with no corrosion present; check for voltages and/or continuity on the various wires.

If none of that helps then I think you'll need someone with greater knowledge to sort it all out, so good luck mate, I hope it's a cheap and easy fix for you.

[zeczec]

On 2/21/2022 at 12:36 PM, Herbie said:

The windows, the memory seats and so on just need to be reset; this always happens after the 12V battery has been disconnected. Unfortunately I can't remember the reset procedure but either Google or your owners manual will have the info you need.

As for the other stuff that's happening, I'm really beginning to struggle about what to try next. It's all very odd.

All I can suggest now is, if there is still a problem, go for the cheapest fix first. In other words, look at any and all affected connectors and harnesses to check that they're all tight and clean with no corrosion present; check for voltages and/or continuity on the various wires.

If none of that helps then I think you'll need someone with greater knowledge to sort it all out, so good luck mate, I hope it's a cheap and easy fix for you.

I appreciate your advice @Herbie thus far. I think the advice to check the 12V Battery first should become an old adage.

I will do just that in terms of fixes and will endevour to post updates here - perhaps someone may benefit.  Something's telling me the pump may be at fault all along as for several months I've been getting lower than expected mpg, and I thought to blame the scam E10 fuel we now have to put up with... But my mate with the same car gets better mpg than me, so there's that.