Intermittent VSC Check

[Samsmitt]

Hi Everyone, 

I have a 2006 IS250 which has a reoccurring issue where the VSC Check and Engine light comes on and then goes off within a few days.                                          Has anyone else had a similar issue? How was it resolved? 

Cheers,

Sam 

[Linas.P]

Hi Sam,

You need to scan the codes, because VSC could be caused my many different things. At least in my experience intermittent VSC is related to gearbox solenoid related faults (assuming you have Automatic), they are most often cured by refreshing/replacing ATF, but nobody would be able to tell for sure without scanning what actual code it gives.

Cheap OBD2 readers can be purchased for ~£10-£15 and then you can download the app which will read the codes.

[Spark plug]

On 12/30/2021 at 4:01 AM, Linas.P said:

Hi Sam,

You need to scan the codes, because VSC could be caused my many different things. At least in my experience intermittent VSC is related to gearbox solenoid related faults (assuming you have Automatic), they are most often cured by refreshing/replacing ATF, but nobody would be able to tell for sure without scanning what actual code it gives.

Cheap OBD2 readers can be purchased for ~£10-£15 and then you can download the app which will read the codes.

 

On 12/30/2021 at 4:01 AM, Linas.P said:

Hi Sam,

You need to scan the codes, because VSC could be caused my many different things. At least in my experience intermittent VSC is related to gearbox solenoid related faults (assuming you have Automatic), they are most often cured by refreshing/replacing ATF, but nobody would be able to tell for sure without scanning what actual code it gives.

Cheap OBD2 readers can be purchased for ~£10-£15 and then you can download the app which will read the codes.

Have you ever changed the atf? I want to  change mine but a bit worried about getting the level right when she has no dipstick.

[ColinBarber]

17 hours ago, Spark plug said:

Have you ever changed the atf? I want to  change mine but a bit worried about getting the level right when she has no dipstick.

Measure what you take out and put back in the same amount.

[Linas.P]

23 hours ago, Spark plug said:

Have you ever changed the atf? I want to  change mine but a bit worried about getting the level right when she has no dipstick.

Before attempting any work I would get codes scanned first. If indeed you get gearbox solenoid related codes, then ATF change would be my next step.

I would not attempt it myself, quite complex process and to do properly it requires specialised tools and knowledge. I am sure there are few member with engineering background who can do it easily, but I would take the car to the dealership and not just to any garage either, because they are most likely not to  follow the procedure (overfill or underfill and make your problem even worse).

As Colin said, simplest option would be to drain say 1L of ATF and replace it with exactly 1L of ATF, this way you don't need to measure ATF temperature (assuming both are at ambient temp) and you should get same amount of ATF in the end. This is what is called "top-up" and that is what Lexus dealers usually do. However, it assumes you have right amount of ATF in the first place (which often is the case, but not always) and may not cure the issue. To get full refill (pan-out, replace the filter and gasket + ~4L ATF), you may need to persuade dealership in doing it, but most of the time they will try to talk you out of it.  

[Spark plug]

On 1/1/2022 at 12:22 PM, ColinBarber said:

Measure what you take out and put back in the same amount.

That only works if nobody has tampered with it before I got her and didn't put the right amount of fluid in it. She is sometimes slow at changing up the gears and making a woo woo sound when traveling at low speed which makes me think that fluid level is low. I've done all my own work on cars for over 40years . Have no intentions of going to a stealership lol. Just need advice from someone who knows how to check the level properly.

[Spark plug]

On 1/1/2022 at 7:23 PM, Linas.P said:

Before attempting any work I would get codes scanned first. If indeed you get gearbox solenoid related codes, then ATF change would be my next step.

I would not attempt it myself, quite complex process and to do properly it requires specialised tools and knowledge. I am sure there are few member with engineering background who can do it easily, but I would take the car to the dealership and not just to any garage either, because they are most likely not to  follow the procedure (overfill or underfill and make your problem even worse).

As Colin said, simplest option would be to drain say 1L of ATF and replace it with exactly 1L of ATF, this way you don't need to measure ATF temperature (assuming both are at ambient temp) and you should get same amount of ATF in the end. This is what is called "top-up" and that is what Lexus dealers usually do. However, it assumes you have right amount of ATF in the first place (which often is the case, but not always) and may not cure the issue. To get full refill (pan-out, replace the filter and gasket + ~4L ATF), you may need to persuade dealership in doing it, but most of the time they will try to talk you out of it.  

That's because they want you to either buy a new gearbox or newer car. 

[Mr Vlad]

Have you not looked at any videos on how to change/check gearbox oil levels on your car?

The way to check the level is 1st make sure the oil is warm, on level ground ideally on a ramp. Under the gearbox housing there are 2 what look like drain plugs. The one nearest the front of the car is the level Indicator. Unscrew that plug. If anything comes out then it's over full. If nothing then possibly there's not enough oil in there.

Look on YouTube as there are at least 2 very very good videos on how to do a gearbox oil change on the is250. 

Oh. Lexus Stockport did mine soon after I bought my car. Charge was £180 for oil and labour, car was in for its service. Just over 2 litres was changed.

Within this forum there are a few threads on this subject. I urge you to find them and read them. After that you'll know all there is to know about gearbox oil changes. 

[Mihanicos]

Support the car on stands high enough so you can work underneath. Make sure the  car is level. Drain the oil. One plug is for draininig, the other for the fluid level. Remember which is which. You normally drain half the capacity, about 3.5 litres.

If you have a filler plug add the same amount plus half a litre more. If you have no filler plug, disconnect the higher rubber tube of the transmission ( driver's side ) of the flow and return oil pipes to the oil cooler. Add oil through the rubber tube. Cover with plastic bags any open tubes to protect against dust.

Reconnect the rubber tube or fit the filler plug.

Start the engine and circulate the oil through the gears remaining 5 seconds at each one. Repeat the process twice.

Keep the engine running until the transmission fluid temperature  is between 30C and 40C. Drain the excess oil by opening the level plug. I drain at 35C. You can use an infra red laser thermometer to read the temperature or the scanner.

If you have a good scanner, make sure you have no line pressure code. In this case the oil must be topped up with half a litre and circulate the oil again. Normally you do not get this code.

If your oil filter is paper, you should change it. If it made out of fine steal mesh, no need to change it. (Japanese market cars )

Go go for a test drive. With light throttle accelerate very lightly and watch out for a smooth silky gear change, noticing the engine revs drop at the gear change but feeling no jerking from the car.

Try full out acceleration to confirm smooth silky gear change.

Do not use any other oil except the original despite other oils may be fully synthetic " better " guaranteed for life etc.

Chris.

[Spark plug]

On 1/4/2022 at 6:13 PM, Mr Vlad said:

Have you not looked at any videos on how to change/check gearbox oil levels on your car?

The way to check the level is 1st make sure the oil is warm, on level ground ideally on a ramp. Under the gearbox housing there are 2 what look like drain plugs. The one nearest the front of the car is the level Indicator. Unscrew that plug. If anything comes out then it's over full. If nothing then possibly there's not enough oil in there.

Look on YouTube as there are at least 2 very very good videos on how to do a gearbox oil change on the is250. 

Oh. Lexus Stockport did mine soon after I bought my car. Charge was £180 for oil and labour, car was in for its service. Just over 2 litres was changed.

Within this forum there are a few threads on this subject. I urge you to find them and read them. After that you'll know all there is to know about gearbox oil changes. 

 

On 1/4/2022 at 6:13 PM, Mr Vlad said:

Have you not looked at any videos on how to change/check gearbox oil levels on your car?

The way to check the level is 1st make sure the oil is warm, on level ground ideally on a ramp. Under the gearbox housing there are 2 what look like drain plugs. The one nearest the front of the car is the level Indicator. Unscrew that plug. If anything comes out then it's over full. If nothing then possibly there's not enough oil in there.

Look on YouTube as there are at least 2 very very good videos on how to do a gearbox oil change on the is250. 

Oh. Lexus Stockport did mine soon after I bought my car. Charge was £180 for oil and labour, car was in for its service. Just over 2 litres was changed.

Within this forum there are a few threads on this subject. I urge you to find them and read them. After that you'll know all there is to know about gearbox oil changes. 

Yes I have looked at many videos on YouTube about this, all gave different ways to measure the temperature at which the level should be checked. I'm just trying to get as many thoughts on the subject before I do it

[Spark plug]

On 1/5/2022 at 2:41 PM, Mihanicos said:

Support the car on stands high enough so you can work underneath. Make sure the  car is level. Drain the oil. One plug is for draininig, the other for the fluid level. Remember which is which. You normally drain half the capacity, about 3.5 litres.

If you have a filler plug add the same amount plus half a litre more. If you have no filler plug, disconnect the higher rubber tube of the transmission ( driver's side ) of the flow and return oil pipes to the oil cooler. Add oil through the rubber tube. Cover with plastic bags any open tubes to protect against dust.

Reconnect the rubber tube or fit the filler plug.

Start the engine and circulate the oil through the gears remaining 5 seconds at each one. Repeat the process twice.

Keep the engine running until the transmission fluid temperature  is between 30C and 40C. Drain the excess oil by opening the level plug. I drain at 35C. You can use an infra red laser thermometer to read the temperature or the scanner.

If you have a good scanner, make sure you have no line pressure code. In this case the oil must be topped up with half a litre and circulate the oil again. Normally you do not get this code.

If your oil filter is paper, you should change it. If it made out of fine steal mesh, no need to change it. (Japanese market cars )

Go go for a test drive. With light throttle accelerate very lightly and watch out for a smooth silky gear change, noticing the engine revs drop at the gear change but feeling no jerking from the car.

Try full out acceleration to confirm smooth silky gear change.

Do not use any other oil except the original despite other oils may be fully synthetic " better " guaranteed for life etc.

Chris.

Thanks for the info Chris.  In intend to use the original from Toyota/lexus

[Linas.P]

Have you got the codes scanned before jumping to conclusion that gearbox is the issue and spending quite a bit more money than cheap £15 scanner?

I did say that I suspect gearbox solenoids issues, because that is in my experience is the only system which can cause VSC intermittently without causing other noticeable issues for some time. However, if your car ever shows VSC light, then it definitely has some interesting codes to show and those codes may bring you much closer to specific issues. 

In short what I am saying, before planning any major work, please confirm the guesses (including mine) because they may or may not be correct. Or they may be close, but not exact.