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Posted

Went to grease my rear caliper sliders today. I usually regularly regrease the fronts and occasionally do the rears too. But upon removing the top slider bolt, I noticed I was not able to slide the caliper down. It just wasn't budging. So gave it some wacks with a hammer eventually got it to go down so now it is able to rotate up and down but the actual caliper doesn't go back and forth in the lower pin. I've tried wacking it many times with a hammer just hasn't budged. Ive heard that heat can help but problem is that there's lots of rubber parts there so using blow torch there seems very risky.

Ive sprayed some penetrating fluid in the area and will attempt again tomorrow. Does anyone have any advice or tips please on how I can free this so that I can take it out to re-grease?

Posted

Wait for the penetrating oil to do its thing and then whilst you are moving the calliper up and down put sideways pressure on it and it should eventually start to move.

Posted

There is one other method - although only as last resort. You can drill the hole from the back of the calliper on where slider pin located - it is relatively thin wall and then you basically going to get access to the back of the pin. Easier to spray penetrating oil inside or just whack it out with the punch. Anyway if you do that then it will compromise the slider even more, so it is not ideal. In theory it is possible to plug the hole with hermetic, or maybe more elegant solution would be to tap it and put the screw cap in so that water doesn't ingress from the back.

In my case I was always able to remove it after repeatedly twisting it and wiggling back and forward, applying more oil and doing all over again. Just to inform the pin of it's inevitable defeat make sure to swear repeatedly, that helps as well! 😄

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Posted

I had this on mine a few weeks ago, I did grease them in Oct last year but forgot to re grease them in the summer and the drivers side was seized again.

Don't know how bad yours is seized but after soaking in Plugas and it's down away from the disc, you can use a thickish punch or drift with a flat end end to tap it off. You can get the punch/drift pretty close to the where the pin is and carefully tap it off, difficult to explain where but you'll work it out. 

Posted

It sounds like you have freed the actual slide pin bolt (from the calliper itself), hence the calliper can move in a limited arc both up and down - afraid it does not sound like the pin is freed from the actual calliper - peel back the rubber boot on the slide pin and give it a good spray of WD40 inside then leave overnight. I would even go as far as wrapping it in a towel to prevent any moisture getting in and to just keep the cold from it if its forecast frost .... in the morning i would heat it up with a small torch, avoiding the runner boot which is quite easily done but as the bolt is actually freed you may have a lot of trouble removing it....

 

Posted
3 hours ago, is200 Newbie said:

It sounds like you have freed the actual slide pin bolt (from the calliper itself), hence the calliper can move in a limited arc both up and down - afraid it does not sound like the pin is freed from the actual calliper - peel back the rubber boot on the slide pin and give it a good spray of WD40 inside then leave overnight. I would even go as far as wrapping it in a towel to prevent any moisture getting in and to just keep the cold from it if its forecast frost .... in the morning i would heat it up with a small torch, avoiding the runner boot which is quite easily done but as the bolt is actually freed you may have a lot of trouble removing it....

 

 

You are right, the actual hex bolt was what got freed and not the actual slider pin itself. Managed to get the bugger out eventually, spending the whole morning on it. As @Linas.P suggested, a lot of swearing at it helped lol. 

I ended up removing the bolts hold the caliper carrier then place entire thing on a spare axle stand just gave it lots of wacks, eventually the bugger started to move. Cleaned it all up with a wire brush attachment on a dremel and then regreased with the Genuine toyota stuff for the slider. 

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Posted

On another note, I changed brake fluid. Before i started the car, the brake pedal was rock solid because of the slight pumping i did to get the fluid out. I changed the pads too, so pistons were retracted. When i started the car and pressed the brake pedal, it went soft again, so i pressed it a few times to allow the pistons to push the pads back. While I was pressing it a few times, twice i heared a really strange noise, sounded like a rattle or something but got me thinking if it's something with the brakes, because the noise only happened for few seconds when i pressed the brakes only twice out the many times. Took it for test drive and everything seems good. But just a little concerned what that noise was.

Posted

It was probably from the rear pads as they can get stuck on the two pins (each side) if they are not completely slotted straight on them - with the pistons forcing them onto the brake discs then they will have levelled themselves out - would have sounded like something metal tapping the brake disc i would imagine?

  • Like 1
Posted
16 hours ago, is200 Newbie said:

It was probably from the rear pads as they can get stuck on the two pins (each side) if they are not completely slotted straight on them - with the pistons forcing them onto the brake discs then they will have levelled themselves out - would have sounded like something metal tapping the brake disc i would imagine?

Yes sounded a bit like metal tapping. Happened twice when I was pressing brake to get pistons to go into correct position

16 hours ago, is200 Newbie said:

 .... and you have used the Toyota Red Rubber Grease when rebuilding them back?

Yes the genuine Toyota red grease that costs a fortune lol. Anyone know what type of grease this is? Surely there should be some sort of aftermarket solution for good grease for slider pins?

Posted

...I used silicone grease...no issues at all...much cheaper...

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