Lexus 450h forum Rk

[Steven Lockey]

18 minutes ago, Shahpor said:

This is simply not true, at least for the Mk4 GS that I had.

The regen braking was certainly not strong enough to slow me down effectively when, like Colin said, coming off dual carriageways.  Entering the slip road at a perfectly reasonable 50mph would definitely require me to use to brakes quite a bit before reaching the junction/roundabout on the exit.

Perhaps it depends on the roads you drive on, but around here, using the brakes is not optional.

When you say "use the brakes" you are aware that pressing the brake pedal at first uses the regenerative braking right?
You've got to brake hard enough to be absorbing over 50KW of energy for the mechanical brakes to kick in. The way to tell in mine is that the balance of the car noticeably shifts when the mechanical brakes kick in since the regenerative braking is entirely on the rear wheels.

Can easily do 70 - 10 mph in MUCH less than 100 meters just using the regenerative brakes.
I completely agree there are some slip-roads short enough you do need to brake harder, these aren't that common and are the reason I did say 'regularly' not 'ever'

As far as a roundabout at the end of a dual-carriageway goes however.... nope never ever a reason to use the manual brakes barring abnormal circumstances since you literally have 300m warning minimum. Literally do it all the time from higher speeds without a single issue.

Unless they reduced the amount of regenerative braking available to your version compared to mine. Mine is pre-facelift so that is also a possibility. Could be they reduced it in the later models to extend the Battery life or something like that. 🤷‍♂️

[Sherra]

judging by the brake dust on my wheels the pads are used quite a lot. I am a IAM Roadsmart member and do know how to drive a hybrid but most of my journeys involve many junctions and hills.

[Riccccccardo]

On 9/18/2022 at 1:17 PM, Steven Lockey said:

Eh? Amount of retardation is roughly the same unless you are going very slowly when the mechanical brakes kick in automatically. 

I rarely if ever use the mechanical brakes in any of those situations unless something unusual happens like someone cuts in land in front of me e.t.c.
Only time you'd need the mechanical brakes in those situations is if you hammer it down all full-speed till you are practically at the end of the road and then slam the brakes on which is bad driving practice and can be dangerous. 

The electric braking provides more than enough braking for almost every normal driving situation.

Yep which why I have now altered my driving style slightly especially taking it super easy when I’m last 5-10 minutes to my destination so I don’t cook heat up hot the discs before parking up. 

[Riccccccardo]

Reached #70k marker today 🥳 I do about 30 miles a day. 

[Steven Lockey]

2 hours ago, Riccccccardo said:

Yep which why I have now altered my driving style slightly especially taking it super easy when I’m last 5-10 minutes to my destination so I don’t cook heat up hot the discs before parking up. 

Last 5-10 minutes are the least important bit lol, they cool down fine when the car is stopped/turned off.

Its when you are driving its most dangerous since hot brakes 'fade' meaning if you need to slam the brakes on in an emergency, you may not get as much braking as you should.
When you press the brakes, it should (on mine at least) use the regenerative braking until the power meter reaches the bottom of the charge bar. Thats already braking rather rapidly for normal driving.

[Riccccccardo]

On 9/18/2022 at 1:17 PM, Steven Lockey said:

Eh? Amount of retardation is roughly the same unless you are going very slowly when the mechanical brakes kick in automatically. 

I rarely if ever use the mechanical brakes in any of those situations unless something unusual happens like someone cuts in land in front of me e.t.c.
Only time you'd need the mechanical brakes in those situations is if you hammer it down all full-speed till you are practically at the end of the road and then slam the brakes on which is bad driving practice and can be dangerous. 

The electric braking provides more than enough braking for almost every normal driving situation.

Hi I need help to understand my car is it better for the brakes and disc re wear and heat build up if when coming to a planned quick stop like a red light or parked cars to gently hold the brake pedal and cruise to a stop or gently pulse the brake peddle to a stop? I’m really confused which is the right way re the regen brakes lads any input? As I want the brake pads and disc to last as long as possible. I’m still none the wiser when the regen and when the brakes actually kick in to be used. Any pictures or diagrams or videos out there?

[NemesisUK]

Don't know if this helps?

Really to get the best from the regenerative braking one must plan well ahead, brake gently and continuously. Late heavy braking will invoke the hydraulic brakes and increase wear on the pads and discs. The regen braking will take the speed down to approx 5mph before the hydraulics kicks in. Stamp on the brakes and it's 100% hydraulic

 

[ColinBarber]

When you press the brake pedal the power meter will move into the charge area (1 below) which indicates the braking is being done by the hybrid system. The harder you press the more it will move until a point where it no longer moves - at that point the mechanical brakes are providing the extra braking effort.

By restricting your braking to only being regen will give you better economy and reduce mechanical brake wear.

You will find the needle will not alway go to the end of the meter, depending if the Battery is full or too hot, but it normally will. You will also find as the car slows you get less regen and you are able to press a little harder. Just takes a little time for it to come naturally - just don't concentrate on the needle and not on the road ahead!

 

If you need to use your mechanical brakes heavily then when you come to a stop it is worth releasing the brakes after a few seconds and creep forward half a wheel rotation and then reapply - that way the pads aren't creating a single hot spot on the discs.

[Riccccccardo]

19 hours ago, NemesisUK said:

Don't know if this helps?

Really to get the best from the regenerative braking one must plan well ahead, brake gently and continuously. Late heavy braking will invoke the hydraulic brakes and increase wear on the pads and discs. The regen braking will take the speed down to approx 5mph before the hydraulics kicks in. Stamp on the brakes and it's 100% hydraulic

 

That’s helpful I’ll make a note of this thanks one of the other guys also mentioned here if you keep in the charging blue section on taco it should only use regen and not hydraulic breaks?

[Riccccccardo]

20 hours ago, ColinBarber said:

When you press the brake pedal the power meter will move into the charge area (1 below) which indicates the braking is being done by the hybrid system. The harder you press the more it will move until a point where it no longer moves - at that point the mechanical brakes are providing the extra braking effort.

By restricting your braking to only being regen will give you better economy and reduce mechanical brake wear.

You will find the needle will not alway go to the end of the meter, depending if the battery is full or too hot, but it normally will. You will also find as the car slows you get less regen and you are able to press a little harder. Just takes a little time for it to come naturally - just don't concentrate on the needle and not on the road ahead!

 

If you need to use your mechanical brakes heavily then when you come to a stop it is worth releasing the brakes after a few seconds and creep forward half a wheel rotation and then reapply - that way the pads aren't creating a single hot spot on the discs.

Yes that’s very helpful easier to understand because to me it’s not completely obvious so now I can visually monitor the situation knowing I’m not using the brakes and plan and prepare better 🫡

On a side note (my first car with paddles) I’ve been using the steering wheel paddles a lot more recently to police my speed doing around 20-30mph ranges example a fixed speed camera or going slightly down hill connecting to a roundabout I drop one simulated gear down -1 the car instantly reduces speed and for a second does a sharp dive sharply half way into regen blue bar then pops back up at top of even bar but the main reason I do it is to reduce and bleed off speed without pressing the brake pedal and keep below example 30mph on an incline with a speed camera or roundabout. Which I’m guessing is ok to do like dropping a Manuel car into a lower gear to gear box break like I did in my previous manual car. I find this method attractive rather then as before mashing the brake pedal down to keep speed below 39mph to avoid getting a speeding camera ticket. 

[ColinBarber]

8 hours ago, Riccccccardo said:

I find this method attractive rather then as before mashing the brake pedal down to keep speed below 39mph to avoid getting a speeding camera ticket. 

Whatever works for you but you would achieve the same outcome by lightly pressing the brake pedal - no mashing.

[Riccccccardo]

On 11/3/2022 at 5:53 PM, ColinBarber said:

Whatever works for you but you would achieve the same outcome by lightly pressing the brake pedal - no mashing.

👊🏾

[Riccccccardo]

 

 

My friend recorded for me. Now understand more doing better at not using hydrologic brakes.

[Riccccccardo]

Letter to my local tire shop 

 

I was wondering if I could pick your brain. I’ve visited your shop a few times for two random punctures on both back wheels and got you to replace them with budget tires at a cost of £100. 

 

 

On my previous car Audi a4 with 18 inch wheels I always had mitchlin ps4 tires all round at a cost of £600 new for four. 

 

 

On my current vehicle though from the majority of websites I’ve seen for either mitchlin ps4 or ps5 for the same tire on my car Lexus gs staggered wheels Front 235/40 rear 265/35 both 19 inch are around £800 which costs far to much. 

 

 

 

My long term goal ideally is to find the sizes Front 235/40 rear 265/35 both 19 inch to have all the same brand four tires new at a max cost of £600 budget for four with a mid range or higher tire with good or above in rain performance and good wear rate and should I get a bad puncture and have to replace cost no more then £150 individually. 

 

 

if that is even possible could you let me know your top two or three tyres I could buy from you would recommend that fits the criteria above please. 

 

 

(FYI my two front tires are currently at 2mill depth so not to long left). 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[johnatg]

You're lining yourself up for a rip off there.

Problem is the 265/35x19 - that's an unusual and expensive size.

Go on the Black Circles website and do a search - you'll find a few tyres which more or less match your criteria except for the 'higher' than mid range. You won't get new tyres anywhere else which are significantly cheaper than Black Circles.

2mm is below a safe tread depth for winter. Still legal, just, but tyres, especially on performance cars, should be replaced at 3mm.

Other tyre suppliers are available.

NB - no connection with Black Circles except as a customer - I find them to be excellent value and efficient.

[Riccccccardo]

On 11/22/2022 at 9:01 AM, johnatg said:

You're lining yourself up for a rip off there.

Problem is the 265/35x19 - that's an unusual and expensive size.

Go on the Black Circles website and do a search - you'll find a few tyres which more or less match your criteria except for the 'higher' than mid range. You won't get new tyres anywhere else which are significantly cheaper than Black Circles.

2mm is below a safe tread depth for winter. Still legal, just, but tyres, especially on performance cars, should be replaced at 3mm.

Other tyre suppliers are available.

NB - no connection with Black Circles except as a customer - I find them to be excellent value and efficient.

Hi I thanks checked black circles maybe 1 or 2 years ago and they were more expensive then everyone else so I hope they’ve improved but I’ll have a look. Just annoying trying to get a decent tire that’s not trash for all the same brand for staggered sizes that don’t cost a million pounds. I’ll check if there is a tyre section here but I’m curious to know what tires everyone else using on their GS vehicles. 

[Bluemarlin]

Also, if you're concerned about possible punctures on expensive tyres,  then it's worth having a look at National Tyres.  They do a lifetime warranty on tyres they sell for £7.99 a tyre.

[NemesisUK]

3 hours ago, Bluemarlin said:

Also, if you're concerned about possible punctures on expensive tyres,  then it's worth having a look at National Tyres.  They do a lifetime warranty on tyres they sell for £7.99 a tyre.

Just make sure you read the T&Cs governing this "Extended Tyre Warranty"

https://www.national.co.uk/information/extended-tyre-warranty-terms-and-conditions

 

[Riccccccardo]

On 12/1/2022 at 10:51 AM, Bluemarlin said:

Also, if you're concerned about possible punctures on expensive tyres,  then it's worth having a look at National Tyres.  They do a lifetime warranty on tyres they sell for £7.99 a tyre.

👍🏾

[Riccccccardo]

On 12/1/2022 at 2:28 PM, NemesisUK said:

Just make sure you read the T&Cs governing this "Extended Tyre Warranty"

https://www.national.co.uk/information/extended-tyre-warranty-terms-and-conditions

 

👍🏾

[Riccccccardo]

I found this tyre recommended by EVO magazine its performance is close to top brands such as mitchlin and Continental alot cheaper and made by uk company and does loads of sizes. I mite go for this. 
 

 

https://www.maxxis.com/uk/tyre/victra-sport-5-vs5/

 

https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Maxxis/Victra-Sport-5.htm

 

 

 

[Initial P]

I have the same tyres sizes on mine and went for Continental Sports Contact 7 set in the summer at £732, I recently found them to be ok in the snow too but I have a normal auto.

Black Circles also said recommended some lower rating tyres Y to W but I've read that its illegal to drop a speed rating, if so I could of gone Hankook at 600 for the set.

I actually got a discount of £60 on the set for using the Firefox browser extension "Honey" so saved 8.5% per tyre, 732 was the discounted price.

[Riccccccardo]

After three weeks hard deliberations live finally settled on a staggered sizes I’ve found for front and back and is under £200 each and is classed as a good tire. 

 

Hankook Ventus S1 Evo 3

 

Hankook is a premium tyre brand based in South Korea. It is the seventh largest tyre manufacturer in the world. The group is extremely popular for its great value for money tyres. Its original equipment tyres are supplied to car manufacturers such as: Audi, BMW, Mercedes-Benz and Porsche to name a few.

 

Asda https://www.asdatyres.co.uk

 

£189 front. 

£169 rear 

£716

£20 discount for four £696

[Riccccccardo]

Anyone know why one is more expensive then the other and why the expensive. One says k127 to 98w XL other says k127 S AB 98w XL

 

I can’t find any information online?

[Riccccccardo]

Oh wow just got this in post today a #recall for #fuel tube replacement. Anyone else get this?