IS300 build thread (Shizukesa)

Shizukesa · February 6, 2021

Well, I finally did it...

I bought an IS300 and sold the IS200 today. It was very sad to see it go back I've put a lot of time into that car, but it's time to move on to a bigger and better platform!

I bought the IS200 back in Feb 2020 for £1950. I proceeded to put around £1000 into it and sold it for £3200 today. I paid £4000 for the 300 last week.

Here she is...

[url=https://imgur.com/aA1P4gV][img]http://i.imgur.com/aA1P4gV.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=https://imgur.com/KywOVsh][img]http://i.imgur.com/KywOVsh.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=https://imgur.com/DyigOKC][img]http://i.imgur.com/DyigOKC.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=https://imgur.com/oRMtgCE][img]http://i.imgur.com/oRMtgCE.jpg[/img][/url]

Black leather interior
99k miles
18 services
Very clean, very very very minimal rust
Paint: 6R4

I'm just waiting for a private plate which I ordered today.

Plans for the short and long term will be:

BC RS coilovers (I have no idea what spring rate but I'd like it close to stock). I'll lower it around 40-50mm.
HKS Silent Hi-power exhaust
JR29 wheels in bronze with some decent rubber
A few cosmetic mods such as a front lip and LED lights for the rear. I may also open up the headlights and make them a little darker.
NA-T conversion for around 300whp.
CD009 manual swap because auto is... auto 😁

If you have any idea what spring rate will give me good handling and a decent comfortable ride, please let me know. Perhaps 10/8?

The 300 is a totally different car. The steering is heavier, the handling is a little stiffer, the 2JZ makes it SO much more enjoyable to drive. That low down torque is such a massive improvement over the 200.

Anyways, this will be the build thread. I'm happy to finally be in the 300 club! 😁

If you'd like to follow along via YouTube, I will be posting videos of EVERYTHING I do to the IS300 here:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCngPT2nnenUOFOhmZl7CJVw

Edited February 6, 2021 by Shizukesa
Fix picture links

Shizukesa · February 6, 2021

Okay I can't get the pictures to embed 😄

rob_clio172 · February 6, 2021

Nice, i will be watching with interest. As for the pictures if your using your phone jusy hit the add files button on the reply box where you are typing and select the picture off your device. I will say though its hit and miss weather or not they load without an error message appearing and resizing seems to make no differnece.

I have the BC racing coilovers but i would have to have a look at spring rates that they came with. Ive also not really driven it hard yet so cant comment too much on how they perform. Ive got the dampening set quite hard but i think it might need tweeking maybe a little stiffer for my liking. Build quality is spot on and very easy to fit.

rob_clio172 · February 7, 2021

Just done a little research on my BC racing coilover spring rates and mine came with 62.200.010 10kg (front) and 62.220.006 6kg (rear).

These are pretty soft and i may switch to a slightly stronger spring depending on how i feel about them when driving hard. It would seem that alot run with 12kg front and 10kg rear.

Shahpor · February 7, 2021

You can actually upload the images directly onto the forum here:

Nice looking car 🙂

rich1068 · February 7, 2021

That's very nice.

Keep it stock. The only way the values of these are going is up :thumbsup:

Shizukesa · February 7, 2021

5 hours ago, rob_clio172 said:

Just done a little research on my BC racing coilover spring rates and mine came with 62.200.010 10kg (front) and 62.220.006 6kg (rear).

These are pretty soft and i may switch to a slightly stronger spring depending on how i feel about them when driving hard. It would seem that alot run with 12kg front and 10kg rear.

How comfortable is the ride with the 10/6? Stiffer ride than stock or about the same?

Shizukesa · February 7, 2021

4 hours ago, Shahpor said:

You can actually upload the images directly onto the forum here:

Nice looking car 🙂

Damn it... that's the first thing I was going to do, but now I can't edit it haha! Thank you!

Shizukesa · February 7, 2021

4 hours ago, rich1068 said:

That's very nice.

Keep it stock. The only way the values of these are going is up

Modifications are 100% going to happen, but I'll keep all of the stock parts in the garage so I can revert to stock if I need to! 🙂

rob_clio172 · February 7, 2021

36 minutes ago, Shizukesa said:

How comfortable is the ride with the 10/6? Stiffer ride than stock or about the same?

I would say you could definitely make it feel about the same ...... depending on the dampening setting, but i imagine with a very soft dampening setting it could be made alot softer too. Ive got mine pretty stiff but i still dont think its going to be enough.

Shizukesa · February 7, 2021

35 minutes ago, rob_clio172 said:

I would say you could definitely make it feel about the same ...... depending on the dampening setting, but i imagine with a very soft dampening setting it could be made alot softer too. Ive got mine pretty stiff but i still dont think its going to be enough.

How low have you gone? Do you have a picture to show how it looks please?

rob_clio172 · February 7, 2021

42 minutes ago, Shizukesa said:

How low have you gone? Do you have a picture to show how it looks please?

Not sure on exact measurements as i changed the suspension 1st then had to raise it to put the wheels on but i would guess about 50mm. Rear arches have now been rolled so i would probably like to drop another 5mm or so on the back.

Shizukesa · February 7, 2021

2 hours ago, rob_clio172 said:

Not sure on exact measurements as i changed the suspension 1st then had to raise it to put the wheels on but i would guess about 50mm. Rear arches have now been rolled so i would probably like to drop another 5mm or so on the back.

That's pretty much the same drop as I want. What size are those wheels? 🙂 Back wheels look wider than the front. Are speed bumps an issue?

rob_clio172 · February 7, 2021

Fronts are 18 x 8.5j (+40 offset) Rears are 18 x 9.5j (+45 offset)

It did rub on the back going over speed bumps or dips in the road and the lip started to cut the tyre, all sweet now the lip has been rolled and a slight pull on the arch.

rob_clio172 · February 7, 2021

The tyres are 225/40 R18 and 255/35 R18. The rears i will probably go for a 265 next with a more sticky tyre.

Shizukesa · February 7, 2021

4 minutes ago, rob_clio172 said:

Fronts are 18 x 8.5j (+40 offset) Rears are 18 x 9.5j (+45 offset)

It did rub on the back going over speed bumps or dips in the road and the lip started to cut the tyre, all sweet now the lip has been rolled and a slight pull on the arch.

Wow they're wider than I thought. I'm wanting to fit these: https://www.driftworks.com/japan-racing-jr-wheels-jr29-17x8-et35-5x100-114-3-matt-bronze.html

Do you think I'll have any issues? I'll most likely go with some 225/45s on the front and 235/45s on the rear.

rob_clio172 · February 7, 2021

Hmmm im not sure, its quite an aggressive offset +35. I will do some digging.

rob_clio172 · February 7, 2021

https://www.fitmentindustries.com/wheel-offset-gallery/926775/2000-lexus-is300-enkei-kojin-bc-racing-coilovers

Have a look at this and other combos on this link, it can be done but says it will rub, ita pretty aggressive and loosk as though you might need alot of camber on the front to tuck the tops of the wheels/tyres under or flush with the arch. There is a calculator on there to input all the sizes and specs then links it results.

Shizukesa · February 7, 2021

53 minutes ago, rob_clio172 said:

https://www.fitmentindustries.com/wheel-offset-gallery/926775/2000-lexus-is300-enkei-kojin-bc-racing-coilovers

Have a look at this and other combos on this link, it can be done but says it will rub, ita pretty aggressive and loosk as though you might need alot of camber on the front to tuck the tops of the wheels/tyres under or flush with the arch. There is a calculator on there to input all the sizes and specs then links it results.

I was just looking on this website this week to check 😁

https://www.fitmentindustries.com/wheel-offset-gallery/1143281/2002-lexus-is300-avid1-av32-eibach-lowering-springs

The wheels I want are a copy of these and it seems to be fine 🤷‍♂️

Shizukesa · February 7, 2021

Oh but I guess he's using lowering springs, not BCs.

rob_clio172 · February 7, 2021

34 minutes ago, Shizukesa said:

I was just looking on this website this week to check 😁

https://www.fitmentindustries.com/wheel-offset-gallery/1143281/2002-lexus-is300-avid1-av32-eibach-lowering-springs

The wheels I want are a copy of these and it seems to be fine 🤷‍♂️

Hes also using a 215 tyre and not a 225 and a 235 which is why the other 1 looks to be more chunky. With the coils hes just got more of a drop on it so you wouldnt have to go as low as that if you didnt want to.

Shizukesa · February 8, 2021

20 hours ago, rob_clio172 said:

Hes also using a 215 tyre and not a 225 and a 235 which is why the other 1 looks to be more chunky. With the coils hes just got more of a drop on it so you wouldnt have to go as low as that if you didnt want to.

Maybe the wheels I chose will be fine with the drop I want, who knows. Can I ask how much you spent for the NA-T conversion? It's something I would like to do in the future. Also, have you done a manual swap?

rob_clio172 · February 8, 2021

Ive spent alot.... way more than i budgeted for tbh. It depends which route you go down, power level goals, parts used.....

I fully built the engine from top to bottom with alot of quality proven parts from ARP crank and rod studs/nuts/bolts, ACL race bearings, rods and pistons rated for well over 1000bhp to Brian Crower cams, 3 angle valve job, custom intake mani and a fuel system which can handle 1000 bhp if i drop a 2nd pump in the tank. This is just a fraction of the bits used.

Alot dont go this far, some go further. If you want to go na-t without the expense of opening the engine, changing the intake manifold and modifying the existing fuel setup it can be relatively cheap but you wont be able to run big power.

Yes im manual swapped with an R154 from the later jzx110, also using a Spec twin disc clutch setup.

Shizukesa · February 9, 2021

4 hours ago, rob_clio172 said:

Ive spent alot.... way more than i budgeted for tbh. It depends which route you go down, power level goals, parts used.....

I fully built the engine from top to bottom with alot of quality proven parts from ARP crank and rod studs/nuts/bolts, ACL race bearings, rods and pistons rated for well over 1000bhp to Brian Crower cams, 3 angle valve job, custom intake mani and a fuel system which can handle 1000 bhp if i drop a 2nd pump in the tank. This is just a fraction of the bits used.

Alot dont go this far, some go further. If you want to go na-t without the expense of opening the engine, changing the intake manifold and modifying the existing fuel setup it can be relatively cheap but you wont be able to run big power.

Yes im manual swapped with an R154 from the later jzx110, also using a Spec twin disc clutch setup.

Holy ****.

I just want 300 at the wheels! 😄

Of course, I would love 1000hp but there's no way I have the budget for that and this is my only car. I just want it to be reliably boosted.

I'll put in a J160/CD009 and boost it to 300whp. No idea how yet. A goal for 2022 I think 😁

rob_clio172 · February 9, 2021

18 hours ago, Shizukesa said:

Holy ****.

I just want 300 at the wheels! 😄

Of course, I would love 1000hp but there's no way I have the budget for that and this is my only car. I just want it to be reliably boosted.

I'll put in a J160/CD009 and boost it to 300whp. No idea how yet. A goal for 2022 I think 😁

Ah that should be relatively easy then as i think stock internals can handle that or thereabouts. You will also be able to keep the existing intake mani as the kits available will cater for that. I would go with 1 of the turbo kits available for this kind of build and it should do the trick perfectly.