Wash or wash and polish

Barry14UK · October 19, 2020

It has been contended that modern paintwork only requires to be washed down rather than being followed by waxing, although some members go even further and 'clay bar' and use various polishes some using expensive carnauba products. There is also a waterless product now to clean and polish. I think this last method risks rubbing paintwork with debris so I wouldn't use it. I tend to spot clean splashes of bird poo every couple of days or so, as I can't get the car in my garage and this is a penalty of living close to the coast. The heavy and frequent rain in Devon does help but actual driving through puddles means more cleaning. I have not gone to a car wash for many years since my car came out with grease marks from the rotary brushes. I suppose some of the 'hand' car washes might be better but I believe you are more sympathetic to your own car in cleaning it.

Interested to know your cleaning regime and what you use.

PCM · October 20, 2020

Wash it myself... always.

Mer, Fusso...

Charlie Alder · October 20, 2020

I have used Zaino Z7 for the last 15 odd years coupled with the occasional waxing. Never, never go to the "scratch and shine " boys. Always the greatest of pleasures to wash your own car. Why not look in at "Clean your Car" and "detailing World " sites for more info.

Barry14UK · October 22, 2020

Two hundred and sixty seven views and only two people apart from me admit to cleaning their cars or say how they do it. Must say I'm surprised!!

rich1068 · October 22, 2020

Wipe over with a mucky rag just before I sell it :thumbsup:

Grumps · October 22, 2020

I like to keep my car clean and have a degree of pride in this respect, but my cars will never see the car wash brigade. My process is-

Snow foam to loosen the dirt then power wash using Bilt Hamber snow foam
Wash mit and bucket with guard in bottom using Bilt Hamber Auto wash
Clean wheels off last using a sponge and wheel brush
Power wash off the suds and dry off.

It usually gets polish and wax a couple of times a year using Auto Glym super resin polish and then Collinite marque d'elegance 915 wax.

This time of year when after a couple of days the car is filthy, it may just get snow foamed and a power wash to remove 80% - 90% of the dirt as it will be just as bad again in a few days.

There will be people who would say that this is OTT and others that would say that I do not go far enough. What I will say is that it works for me!

Habu · October 22, 2020

For me, it’s:

- rinse off dust with rainwater from water butt. If really grimy I snow foam the car with Meguiars foam and Karcher pressure washer

- 2 bucket method to wash with Meguiars Gold Class shampoo or NXT. Meguiars wash mitt for bodywork and glass + proprietary wheel brushes for wheels and tyres. I try to avoid wheel cleaning products.

- rinse with rainwater

Both of our cars were treated to G3 glass coat and that really speeds up the washing process. G3 also applied to glass and wheels.

J Henderson · October 22, 2020

Usual regime for me is quite lengthy as I will usually spend at least an hour.

I do the wheels first, then cover the car with snow foam (Bilt Hamber Auto foam) and go over the badges, door handles, fuel door, window rubbers etc with a detail brush whilst the foam dwells and does it's thing. Rinse off any remaining foam then 2 bucket wash with Autoglym UHD shampoo. Rinse again then I'll add some form of finishing product - either a quick detailer to double up as a drying aid, or if I have plenty of time available, I'll coat the car again with Gyeon Bathe + via foam lance, rinse it off then dry the car using a warm air blower.

Finish up by dressing the tyres with Gyeon Tire.

Delphius1 · October 23, 2020

When I got my car I clay barred it and then applied wax polish. The clay bar picked up several years worth of rubbish off the surface so it was worth doing. It's always satisfying to feel the smooth paint surface you get once you've clay barred. Then wax polish was applied for protection. As the car's 16 years old now, tit was a bit of overkill, but it brought the paint up pretty well. I got the clay bar kit off eBay with the lubricant.

As for products, I tend to use Meguiars a lot. Their ultimate compound works well keeping my plastic headlamps clear and shiny. I use their glass cleaner ion the windows inside and outside the car. It also works well on the black shiny trim round the windows too.

The wax I use is part of a kit I got given as a sample. I can't remember the name but it's a pink liquid wax and works very well protecting the paint. Although I've used Autoglym high definition wax before with good results.

As for cloths I use microfibre cloths from Lidls. No point in paying more for the same cloth elsewhere.

I really need to sort out my scabby wheels though as they let the rest of the car down. 🙂

Habu · October 23, 2020

For cars older than 12 months it’s worth claying the glass too. It’s makes the glass super slick so water just slides off plus it makes it less likely to get ice building up on it (or it’s a lot easier to remove). A coat of Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax on the glass afterwards really boosts the slickness. I rarely use my wipers now. Get to 30mph and - whoosh - water gone.

Barry14UK · October 23, 2020

Interesting what you guys do, I guess many just use water in a bucket, maybe with just something in it to help float off the dirt. I have a clay bar but haven't used it yet but will do so and follow up with some Meguiars preparations I have. I have only ever used water and designated glass cleaner on my front screen as the advice I saw (admittedly a long time ago), said to keep waxes off of this. It would seem that an appropriate wax can now be used and I will have to consider this. I suppose it would also help stop squashed flies etc, sticking to the windscreen which the wipers and windscreen wash do not always fully remove when you are driving.

Habu · October 23, 2020

1 hour ago, Barry14UK said:

Interesting what you guys do, I guess many just use water in a bucket, maybe with just something in it to help float off the dirt. I have a clay bar but haven't used it yet but will do so and follow up with some Meguiars preparations I have. I have only ever used water and designated glass cleaner on my front screen as the advice I saw (admittedly a long time ago), said to keep waxes off of this. It would seem that an appropriate wax can now be used and I will have to consider this. I suppose it would also help stop squashed flies etc, sticking to the windscreen which the wipers and windscreen wash do not always fully remove when you are driving.Yes, I was hesitant about applying anything to the windscreen but I’ve had no issues with the wipers being noisy or ‘grabbing’ the glass. I’ve also applied a ceramic coating to the wheels which makes them so much easier to keep clean.

Make sure your car is thoroughly clean before claying and, good news. you don’t need to thoroughly dry it afterwards either. You need liberal amounts of a lubricant (I use Meguiars Quik Detailer) and work the clay in your hands beforehand to warm it up and make it soft. Spray lots of detailer onto a panel or glass pane and lightly work a piece of clay up and down and left to right. If it starts dragging, spray some more. Wipe off with a clean micro fire cloth. Now feel the difference! Whilst it’s clean, shiny and uber smooth I’d be applying some Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax. Super easy to apply.

rich1068 · October 23, 2020

Or try one of these. Marvellous things.

I only keep cars about a year and will normally clay (see above, just use water to lube), polish (AG) and seal/wax (Fusso) when I get them. It's part of my playing with cars procedure. I prefer to hand wash if I can because I find it quite therapeutic but I do use the local hand wash because I know them and I never let them use traffic film remover or acid. I do occasionally use an automatic if I haven't got round to the previously mentioned stuff yet and also the kids find it very entertaining

Luckily I have a guy who works for me who's well into the whole detailing thing and on the GS and LS he's offered to machine polish and seal them. If I've had that done the automatic is out and I'm less likely to use the hand wash.

When I leased new vehicles I used to spend a fortune on different products and put aside days to pamper the car. Since having kids I figure life's too short and the above does me. Tbh I probably prefer getting my hands dirty on the car now.

PCM · October 23, 2020

11 minutes ago, rich1068 said:

Or try one of these. Marvellous things.

I only keep cars about a year and will normally clay (see above, just use water to lube), polish (AG) and seal/wax (Fusso) when I get them. It's part of my playing with cars procedure. I prefer to hand wash if I can because I find it quite therapeutic but I do use the local hand wash because I know them and I never let them use traffic film remover or acid. I do occasionally use an automatic if I haven't got round to the previously mentioned stuff yet and also the kids find it very entertaining

Luckily I have a guy who works for me who's well into the whole detailing thing and on the GS and LS he's offered to machine polish and seal them. If I've had that done the automatic is out and I'm less likely to use the hand wash.

When I leased new vehicles I used to spend a fortune on different products and put aside days to pamper the car. Since having kids I figure life's too short and the above does me. Tbh I probably prefer getting my hands dirty on the car now.

" I find it quite therapeutic"

Great post. It is therapeutic.

CVLex · October 23, 2020

On 10/22/2020 at 9:56 AM, Grumps said:

I like to keep my car clean and have a degree of pride in this respect, but my cars will never see the car wash brigade. My process is-

Snow foam to loosen the dirt then power wash using Bilt Hamber snow foam

Wash mit and bucket with guard in bottom using Bilt Hamber Auto wash

Clean wheels off last using a sponge and wheel brush

Power wash off the suds and dry off.

Ok, here goes 😁..

Almost same as here .. , - Bilt Hamber are superb products and very reasonably priced..

I do the wheels/arches first though and once a month use Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel and a coat of Chemical Guys Bare Bones for the arches.

Occasional coat of Bilt Hamber Cleanser Polish followed by their brilliant Double Speed Wax.

If I'm in a rush, Auto Glym Aqua Wax is great for a layer of protection (can be applied to a rinsed and still wet car) before drying off.

Oh, and CarPro PERL for the interior and exterior plastics/rubber is great too !😁

Jaystar77 · October 24, 2020

Because I've a few cars and time is a factor I'd only do the clay bar, polish and wax thing once or twice a year (furlough helped immensely this year). The Bilt Hamber range is great for this, used their auto balm a few months back and it sped up the process greatly although I still keep a tub of Autoglym HD handy for the final coat.

In my regular cleaning technique I use products from a local company which are really difficult to beat:

Apply Anachem Articulate to dry paintwork and allow to dwell

Snowfoam the vehicle with Anachem Ultrafoam

Wash mitt, two buckets and Anachem Gleam (the Cherry Cola smells great)

Rinse then use Anachem Ultragloss as a drying aid

For the wheels I'd use the Anachem purge to loosen any stubborn brake dust then wheel cleaning brush and rinse.

If time permits a coat of Anachem Hybrid adds extra shine

I know that's a lot of mentions of Anachem but they offer bundles and once I tried the stuff I couldn't find anything that gave the same results so just topped up the collection every time I ran low. Been using it for years now so would recommend giving them a go.

Just looking through old pics for cleaning shots and I miss my poor smashed RX, can only hope I get it back to this condition :

08ISF · October 25, 2020

I used to have my RX washed by the car wash boys but the local place changed hands and they wanted £15 to wash my RX which I thought was a bit much. After washing it myself it didn't seem such a bad deal. It's big and the roof is difficut to get at. However, I persevered and now I have a way of washing it that doesn't break my back or the bank.

I bought a fleece wash mitt on an extending pole on the internet to do the front screen and roof , makes life much easier.

I use Bilt Hamber shampoo (expensive but only 5ml required in 10 litres of water) after flushing the dirt with a hose , rinse off with the hose, then some CarPlan Trade Hi-Wax Rinse mixed 50/50 in a spray bottle. Spray over while the car is wet and wipe off /drywith one of those noodle mitts then go round after with a large microfibre cloth to finally dry it and remove any smears. Leaves the car shiny and nice and slippery to the touch and the wax coating seems to shed water and dirt and stay shiny until the next wash which might be 3-4 weeks away.

I've tried all the reassuringly expensive waxes etc in the past and never been that impressed. This way seems to work and it's cheap.

rich1068 · October 25, 2020

44 minutes ago, 08ISF said:

I've tried all the reassuringly expensive waxes etc in the past and never been that impressed.

Have to say I'm the same. Paid a fortune over the years but largely back where I started, buying Autoglym stuff from Halfords.

PCM · October 29, 2020

Inspired by someone on this form ( as is often the case ), I bought a clay Mitt ( didn't get on with using clay bars ).

It's a Farecla G3 PRO Body Prep clay Mitt, and is amazing. ( eBay )

Very easy to use and great results. Used it on my windscreen. Wow!

rich1068 · October 29, 2020

Good aren't they? Makes the job so much easier.

Spacewagon52 · October 29, 2020

On 10/24/2020 at 8:35 AM, Jaystar77 said:

Because I've a few cars and time is a factor I'd only do the clay bar, polish and wax thing once or twice a year (furlough helped immensely this year). The Bilt Hamber range is great for this, used their auto balm a few months back and it sped up the process greatly although I still keep a tub of Autoglym HD handy for the final coat.

In my regular cleaning technique I use products from a local company which are really difficult to beat:

Apply Anachem Articulate to dry paintwork and allow to dwell

Snowfoam the vehicle with Anachem Ultrafoam

Wash mitt, two buckets and Anachem Gleam (the Cherry Cola smells great)

Rinse then use Anachem Ultragloss as a drying aid

For the wheels I'd use the Anachem purge to loosen any stubborn brake dust then wheel cleaning brush and rinse.

If time permits a coat of Anachem Hybrid adds extra shine

I know that's a lot of mentions of Anachem but they offer bundles and once I tried the stuff I couldn't find anything that gave the same results so just topped up the collection every time I ran low. Been using it for years now so would recommend giving them a go.

Just looking through old pics for cleaning shots and I miss my poor smashed RX, can only hope I get it back to this condition :

That does look stunning

rayaans · October 29, 2020

I tend to use more specialist products rather than off the shelf kind of stuff that you get from Halfords and the like. Reason being, in most cases, the detailing stuff is cheaper to buy as they're not overly commercialised.

Ive been using Detailed Online products recently and Carchem, who Ive used for ages.

Carchem Shampoo is the most economical ive used with no added waxes/gloss enhancers so goes well on anything. Detailed online for almost everything else. In the winter months I tend to grab the nano sealant which you can simply spray on a wet car and rinse off leaving protection behind

For polish, honestly depends what Im doing but generally go for the Sonax EX-04-06 for machine polishing, or sometimes Britemax Black Max. For hand polishing Ive always resorted to Autoglym SRP

Protection wise, Bilt Hamber Double Speed wax is extremely difficult to beat.

Barry14UK · October 29, 2020

Dark cars look look particularly good after treatment but unfortunately show marks and dirt more quickly than say silver ones.

Inspired by what some of you good people do, I will have a go at my car over the week end, weather permitting.

I had thought fleetingly, that I might have the professionally applied special glaze applied which some manufacturers offer as an option, normally from new. Some think this is worthwhile whilst others consider it a waste of money. Anybody had experience of this and would like to comment?

Habu · October 29, 2020

44 minutes ago, Barry14UK said:

Dark cars look look particularly good after treatment but unfortunately show marks and dirt more quickly than say silver ones.

Inspired by what some of you good people do, I will have a go at my car over the week end, weather permitting.

I had thought fleetingly, that I might have the professionally applied special glaze applied which some manufacturers offer as an option, normally from new. Some think this is worthwhile whilst others consider it a waste of money. Anybody had experience of this and would like to comment?

Hi, I posted this on a wash thread recently on the UX forum. My current 2 cars were ceramic coated (SiO2) at the PDI stage before collection and it’s a glass coat that covers all external surfaces and particularly the paint. The dealers typically charge between £349 and £399 for this product but it lasts for 5 years. Products such as Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax are much less outlay, give similar protection but will need reapplication every 6-12 months depending on use. If your car is more than 12 months old it’s really important to clay the paintwork beforehand so it’s nice and smooth to begin with.

I’ve used Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax on 2 previous cars and it’s very good. Good on wheels and glass too but my current 2 cars were treated at the dealers during the PDI stage with Gen 3 ceramic coating. Thankfully, the dealers have moved away from flogging Supaguard for a now much better quality product and a ceramic one too, not a glorified wax. Gen 3 is a ceramic glass topcoat that provides 5 years protection to all external parts of the car. You get epic beading with it. It’s best done at the PDI stage as the bodywork should require minimal paint correction. Yes, it’s £399 but you do get a nice small suitcase of Gen 3 products like glass cleaner, shampoo, bird poo remover, etc. Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax is about £22 at the moment (less 15% with my Gold LOC membership) and you could probably do a car with one to two bottles of the stuff. So about £40 (Meguiars) versus £400 (Gen 3). The £400 ceramic version does include a small suitcase of products including the awesome bird poo remover so let’s say that’s £60 worth of products so now it’s £40 versus £340. The Gen 3 ceramic application is generally a better product and will certainly last longer (5 years guarantee) whereas the home applied ceramic waxes much less so and will require topping up periodically. However, I’d recommend both products. I still buy the Hybrid Ceramic Wax as I’ve done the house windows with it (rain just runs off) and the en-suite shower cubicle.🙂

ALAW · October 29, 2020

I start of with a rinse with the hosepipe on spray gets the bits off. A bucket of water with Autoglym conditioning shampoo wash all over. Then rinse of with the spray hosepipe. Dry off with a drying cloth currently using an auto finesse one. Job done. In spring after drying i give it a coat of Autoglym extra gloss protection and the same again in autumn. The extra gloss protection is very good on the alloys as well stops the brake dust building up as quick and makes them easier to clean. Done this for years.