wheel hub Wheel hub housing wear

[Bottibelly]

Hi all,

I've had a throbbing noise from the front nearside wheel of my 2003 LS430.  It stopped for while after I fitted new rotors and pushed the calliper pistons back - one piston was showing signs of rust and ceasing.  After a while the throbbing noise returned, I assumed it was the calliper and fitted a reconditioned one.  On the test drive the noise was still there, starting around 20mph and getting worse the faster I went, so could only guess it was the wheel bearing / hub.

I've striped her down and have got the old hub off - the 4 hub bolts were tight and the old hub was fast in the housing.  As I'm removing it I thought, this old hub doesn't feel worn or "notchy".  When I cleaned up the suspension upright the hub fits into (image 1) noticed it's chewed up and in what I think is a terrible condition (images 2 & 3), seeing as the new hub has a machined collar which will fit into it.  So I'm now thinking the bearing was fine and the noise was coming from the whole hub assembly moving in the housing in the suspension.

I looked on eBay for used spares and the wear on the hub housing in the suspension upright (described by the seller as "good condition") looked worse than mine!

My questions are:

1) Is the wear in the photos "normal" / acceptable?

2) If I fit the new hub as things are, will I only have further problems?

3) Does it need a new, unworn suspension upright?

Many thanks.

[Britprius]

Hi Steve. The corrosion you see in the carrier is normal due to the reaction between the aluminium, and steel bearing hub. This will not cause the problem you are encountering, and as long as the hub bolts are tightened to the correct torque should not prove problematic.
 The noise is very likely to be caused by the bearing, but can also be caused by the tyres. Swapping the tyres from front to rear will eliminate the noise if this is the problem.

John.

[Bottibelly]

Hi John,  thanks for your advise and sorry for the delay in replying.  I've changed the wheel hub and it runs much better now 😃.

I'm still surprised though, that Lexus have designed it with dissimilar metals which are known to corrode like this and so a replacement hub will rely purely on the bolts without much else to locate & support it 🤔. 

Steve

[BigBoomer]

On 11/5/2020 at 3:37 PM, Bottibelly said:

Hi John,  thanks for your advise and sorry for the delay in replying.  I've changed the wheel hub and it runs much better now 😃.

I'm still surprised though, that Lexus have designed it with dissimilar metals which are known to corrode like this and so a replacement hub will rely purely on the bolts without much else to locate & support it 🤔. 

Steve

The hub relies on the face that it bolts to to locate it rather than the hole in the upright. If bolted down to spec it will be fine.
Dissimilar metals are common in modern suspension systems as you need steels for bearing surfaces but aluminium to keep the un-sprung weight down.
If you plan for corrosion when designing then it shouldn't be an issue until the car is worn out.

Don't forget that your car is now 17 years old. For that age that part looks great. 

[Bottibelly]

All reassuring, thanks. 😃

Yes, sadly I'm all too aware of the age as things are too regularly wearing out or going wrong.  Posts to follow (at some point) on deflating rear suspension, battery draining / charging issues and car alarm going off all hours of the day night.

I'd love to keep the old car as the engine is still sweet, but the electrics in particular are driving me nuts 🤪.

[Malc]

2 hours ago, Bottibelly said:

and car alarm going off all hours of the day night

can you just not turn this off ? or down to zero noise level ?

Malc

[Bottibelly]

Hi Malc,

I need to experiment more really. I know there is a button next to the rear view mirror (photo below), but unlike most press in / press out buttons, this isn't obviousI as to whether it's or off.  I guess the only way to tell is trial and error, but I often don't hear the alarm during the day when I'm mainly at the back of the house and only hear it at night when I'm in bed at the front of the house and in the rush to get the alarm to stop I forget to try the switch.  Also, the electrics do really odd things - switches & buttons will behave one way one day and another the next - particularly the smart key and the remote lock / unlock on the key fob.  I know logically that sounds daft, but something isn't right.  I suspect this may be to do with me disconnecting the Battery when the alarm goes off which I do because I've learnt to do because of loss confidence in the switches.  I'll have to connect it up and try it.

I also I feel the alarm goes off because the Battery is low.  I don't know if that's possible?

So because my Battery drains when the car stands for days without use and because the alarm goes off, I disconnect the negative terminal and connect a solar trickle charger.  I was hoping the trickle charger would be enough to keep the Battery topped up, but now winter's coming I don't think it has the oomph in the shorter day light hours.

I'd be interested in how you turn the volume down - I can't find a dial for that.  And I don't find the owner's manual much help.  And if anyone knows what wires to cut to just disable the alarm all together - as a last resort.

Steve

 

 

[Malc]

I can only speak for my 1995 Mk3

There is a alarm volume dial just under the wood trim by the gearstick, in front of the front centre console/ armrest ...  lift the trim carefully and the dial is exposed

Prior to this there was a fuse we found that just disabled the alarm ( and other stuff too ? )

Metal objects, coins, keys etc in the front centre armrest also caused the alarm to trigger

How your Ls430 works I have zero knowledge sadly

Malc