Key fob... won't...

[PCM]

I have a small conundrum.

It's not really been my week.

So any suggestions welcome...

I cannot open my RX300 with the remote. The little LED on the fob lights up, I have put in a new Battery.

It's the same for the spare. Both won't make the car un-click and flash the amber indicator lights.

I can open my car using the actual key, but that of course, sets the alarm off.

I have trawled the internet and see the word, 'actuator', and my car is booked in for its MOT and service soon.

But it's a question of, how do I get it there.

With the alarm sounding I could also start the engine, so that might be a clue?

So any suggestions welcome... 

🙁

[steve2006]

It sounds like the receiver has become corrupted, have you tried opening the car with the key ( presently your only method) putting the key into the ignition, turning it to ignition position and then leaving it there for around 8 minutes. Remove the key then reinsert and see if the engine starts.

The receiver is normally located around the ignition lock.

If that fails try disconnecting the car Battery negative for a while to see if the system resets.

Or even better get the AA out they fix most cars within 40 minutes according to the TV ads 😏

[m4rkw]

Have you tried reprogramming it?

Instructions:

 

Begin with: The driver's door open and unlocked. Key out of the ignition. 

1. Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch 2 times within 5 seconds. 

NOTE: Steps 2 and 3 should be performed within 40 seconds. 

2. Close and open driver's door TWICE. 

3. Insert the key into the ignition and remove it. 

NOTE: Steps 4 - 6 should be performed within 40 seconds. 

4. Close and open the driver's door twice. 

5. Insert the key into the ignition. 

6. Close the door. 

NOTE: Steps 5 and 6 should be reversed for the following models ONLY (close door first, then insert key into ignition): 

2000 - 2005 Celica 

2001 - 2003 Prius 

2001 - 2005 ECHO 

2001 - 2005 RAV4 

2003 - 2004 Avalon 

7. Turn the ignition switch from "Lock" to "On" and back to "Lock" at about 1 second intervals to select the desired mode: 

1 time for ADD mode. 

2 times for REWRITE mode. 

3 times for CONFIRMATION mode. 

5 times for PROHIBITION mode. 

8. Remove the key from the ignition. 

9. To confirm your mode selection, the power locks will now cycle "lock" to "unlock" a number of times corresponding to your key cycles in step 7. 

NOTE: If Confirmation or Prohibition modes have been selected, opening the door will complete the procedure. 

10. For Add or Rewrite modes do the following within 40 seconds of Door 

Procedure Lock confirmation: 

A. Press both car transmitter Lock and Unlock buttons simultaneously between 1 and 1.5 seconds and release. 

B. Within 3 seconds of step A, press the transmitter Lock button for more than 1 second and release. 

If the keyless entry remote transmitter has been successfully programmed, the power locks will cycle "lock" to "unlock" once at this time. 

If there are problems with the remote transmitter or the procedure up to this point, the locks will cycle twice. If this occurs, verify that you have received the correct transmitter, and then repeat the above procedure. 

C. If multiple remotes are to be reprogrammed, repeat steps A and B. 

11. Open the driver's door to conclude programming mode. 

[royoftherovers]

Blimey Mark, were you a script writer for Tommy Cooper ?  (Lol)

[m4rkw]

1 minute ago, royoftherovers said:

Blimey Mark, were you a script writer for Tommy Cooper ?  (Lol)

Don't really know who that is, but no it was posted on another forum somewhere and I copied it and kept it in my car folder because it's useful to know 🙂

[royoftherovers]

2 minutes ago, m4rkw said:

Don't really know who that is, but no it was posted on another forum somewhere and I copied it and kept it in my car folder because it's useful to know 🙂

Yours was a brilliant "how to"

Look for Tommy Cooper on Youtube and have a good laugh !

[Illogan]

Mark - that's superb - - at what point should I 'put my left foot in - out - in - out - and shake it all about'?

[m4rkw]

28 minutes ago, Illogan said:

Mark - that's superb - - at what point should I 'put my left foot in - out - in - out - and shake it all about'?

Ask toyota it's their little dance haha

[PCM]

4 hours ago, steve2006 said:

It sounds like the receiver has become corrupted, have you tried opening the car with the key ( presently your only method) putting the key into the ignition, turning it to ignition position and then leaving it there for around 8 minutes. Remove the key then reinsert and see if the engine starts.

The receiver is normally located around the ignition lock.

If that fails try disconnecting the car battery negative for a while to see if the system resets.

Or even better get the AA out they fix most cars within 40 minutes according to the TV ads 😏

Thank you.

Not yet... as I know it will make a racket when I open the door and the alarm goes off.

I guess I'll have to try some experimenting..!

[m4rkw]

Actually thinking about it, the programming sequence is unlikely to help if turning the key in the ignition doesn't silence the alarm.

So if I understand you correctly the engine starts but the alarm still sounds? That is odd indeed. The immobiliser chip is being recognised by the ignition system but not the alarm system.

[PCM]

1 minute ago, m4rkw said:

Actually thinking about it, the programming sequence is unlikely to help if turning the key in the ignition doesn't silence the alarm.

So if I understand you correctly the engine starts but the alarm still sounds? That is odd indeed. The immobiliser chip is being recognised by the ignition system but not the alarm system.

That's right - bizarre.

 

[m4rkw]

Maybe get a mobile auto electrician out to have a look at it?

[m4rkw]

I remember when water got into the fusebox of an old beemer I used to have the electrics went crazy. Not sure if it's been raining recently where you are but that might be worth a look.

[Herbie]

Not casting aspersions on Mark's advice above but he does say that it's general advice that covers a few different cars, whereas the advice in the topic below is written specifically for the RX300 and it was successful, so it may be worth giving this a try first:

 

 

[PCM]

4 hours ago, steve2006 said:

It sounds like the receiver has become corrupted, have you tried opening the car with the key ( presently your only method) putting the key into the ignition, turning it to ignition position and then leaving it there for around 8 minutes. Remove the key then reinsert and see if the engine starts.

The receiver is normally located around the ignition lock.

If that fails try disconnecting the car battery negative for a while to see if the system resets.

Or even better get the AA out they fix most cars within 40 minutes according to the TV ads 😏

Oddly... the same thing with my wife's RX350. They sit next to each other on the driveway.

Fortunately hers ( though she is getting rid of it ) is unlocked. Like mine hers will start, but the remote won't lock or unlock.

I did try the '8 minute' suggestion on her car, but no joy...

[Herbie]

41 minutes ago, m4rkw said:

So if I understand you correctly the engine starts but the alarm still sounds? That is odd indeed. The immobiliser chip is being recognised by the ignition system but not the alarm system.

Not really - the alarm system is integrated with the locking/entry/exit system rather than the immobiliser.

[m4rkw]

14 minutes ago, Herbie said:

Not casting aspersions on Mark's advice above but he does say that it's general advice that covers a few different cars, whereas the advice in the topic below is written specifically for the RX300 and it was successful, so it may be worth giving this a try first:

 

 

 

I think that's the same process, mine just has a little more detail 🙂

[PCM]

Thank you.

I tried it 3 times on my wife's car but no success... 

😕

[m4rkw]

You have two cars both doing this? is it possible there's some source of interference nearby that's causing it to not work? Could you maybe move the car somewhere else and see if it starts working?

[PCM]

Fair point.

I could try moving my wife's 'death car', see other post.

Though not that keen - but ... it's a great idea!

 

[m4rkw]

Or switch off all electronics in the house, leave any other electronics in your pockets indoors far from the car, take one key fob at a time outside and test it. 

Maybe I could write for Tommy Cooper after all 😉

[PCM]

5 minutes ago, m4rkw said:

Or switch off all electronics in the house, leave any other electronics in your pockets indoors far from the car, take one key fob at a time outside and test it. 

Maybe I could write for Tommy Cooper after all 😉

I did think of that - just kill the power. ( A bit like the power cuts we have... )

Thank you.

[m4rkw]

3 hours ago, PCM said:

I did think of that - just kill the power. ( A bit like the power cuts we have... )

Thank you.

Do you have techstream? Maybe there are some codes logged. BCM would seem a likely target.

[PCM]

On 7/18/2020 at 5:56 PM, m4rkw said:

You have two cars both doing this? is it possible there's some source of interference nearby that's causing it to not work? Could you maybe move the car somewhere else and see if it starts working?

It might be.

Bit of an update...

I was very brave and drove my wife's car down our local road - as her car won't respond to her remote either.

I stopped about 700 yards away from our house, ignition off, remote worked: locked unlocked.

Drove back home, stopping every 200 yards, still worked. Stopped at the beginning of our short drive. Worked.

Reversed closer to the garage: remote did not work. Where my car is also parked.

So... it must be very local interference.

Need to do some, 'process of elimination', work.

[rich1068]

Had this exact conversation at Lex-Tek yesterday. Dave had got a customer in reporting an intermittent fault with the remote. His advice was to try and track down the source of the interference. He'd had a garage door opener causing problems before and when I had my IS and RX there was about half a mile of Ecclesall Road in Sheffield where the remotes never worked and I had to use the key. My dad drives the IS now and still has the same problem.