Tracking and zero point calibration

jaaniic · May 14, 2020

I bought IS250 2008. It was pulling to the left, and steering wheel was off center to the left as well, so I did full tracking. Now steering wheel is straight, but it still pulls, maybe not as much, but makes driving not as comfortable and enjoyable as it could be.

Just before I bought the car, nearside front suspension arm ball joint was replaced. That work and tracking was not done by dealer. Tires are fine, pressures are spot on, brakes not jammed, I have no errors on dash and car functions fine.

I was reading somewhere, that after any suspension work or tracking, zero point calibration have to be performed, so the question is, should I try to perform it, and could that be the cause? Any other probable causes? Please share your experience.

Malc · May 14, 2020

Welcome to the LOC Janis

now all i would suggest is to get the laser tracking done professionally somewhere at say £30 an end / £60 in total

someone else will probably appear shortly to give you a more authoritative response

Malc

jaaniic · May 14, 2020

Thank you, and yes, tracking was done professionally with Super tracker STR130RW and 4 wheel alignment.

Texas · May 14, 2020

Ok, that was the equipment that was used and mighty fine it should be, but...and it’s a big ‘but’ the weak point In the system is how competent was the operator, I say that because you have a problem that this equipment could/should have picked up and with use rectified the fault but it has not!

jaaniic · May 15, 2020

Here are the measurements before and after. He said, that something cannot be adjusted, I think it was camber, but still, everything should be within factory specs as far as I checked. What do you think guys?

Malc · May 15, 2020

the after scenario showing the single red problem ..... is that the camber one then ?

and why couldn't he adjust it ?

the diagrams I get state exactly which areas they represent .... does yours ?

Malc

jaaniic · May 15, 2020

I just checked, camber and caster are not adjustable on IS.

Red area is caster, factory spec is 8°11' +/- 45' But still, I think, both sides are too similar to cause such pulling. My steering wheel turns roughly 20 degrees left, if I let go. Also, speed makes no difference, as long as I'm over 15 mph or so.

Sorry, it was a bad print, I added some text here.

Britprius · May 15, 2020

On 5/14/2020 at 4:01 PM, jaaniic said:

I bought IS250 2008. It was pulling to the left, and steering wheel was off center to the left as well, so I did full tracking. Now steering wheel is straight, but it still pulls, maybe not as much, but makes driving not as comfortable and enjoyable as it could be.

Just before I bought the car, nearside front suspension arm ball joint was replaced. That work and tracking was not done by dealer. Tires are fine, pressures are spot on, brakes not jammed, I have no errors on dash and car functions fine.

I was reading somewhere, that after any suspension work or tracking, zero point calibration have to be performed, so the question is, should I try to perform it, and could that be the cause? Any other probable causes? Please share your experience.

After any work done on the steering or suspension it is important that zero point calibration is done on the power steering. The system works by the computer knowing where the strait ahead position of the steering wheel is in comparison to where the steering rack believes it is. If these two points do not match when the wheels are in the strait ahead position the power steering will try to steer the car where it thinks strait ahead is pulling the steering to one side or the other.
This ties the mechanical part of the steering to the electronic part.
This also affects the stability control system, and the yaw sensor.
I hope this simplistic explanation will show some light on the problem.

John.

jaaniic · May 15, 2020

Thank you. There are some tutorials online with paper clip in OBD port, and service manual states similar procedure by connecting TS and CG terminals, but some people also said, it's only possible to do properly with techstream. Do you have more knowledge or experience on that?

Britprius · May 16, 2020

12 hours ago, jaaniic said:

Thank you. There are some tutorials online with paper clip in OBD port, and service manual states similar procedure by connecting TS and CG terminals, but some people also said, it's only possible to do properly with techstream. Do you have more knowledge or experience on that?

I use Techstream on my cars. Not having tried shorting the pins on the OBD port I cannot comment on if that works or not, but it may be worth trying.

John.

jaaniic · May 19, 2020

Successfully did paperclip method, but made no difference.

Britprius · May 19, 2020

1 hour ago, jaaniic said:

Successfully did paperclip method, but made no difference.

You say you did the paper clip, but how do you know it worked? As you said it was successful.

John.

jaaniic · May 19, 2020

I followed service manual and dash indicators. First, I cleared calibration, that was indicated with flashing lights and CHECK VSC, then recalibrated, which was confirmed with VSC TEST MODE indicated.

hprice1099 · May 19, 2020

On 5/16/2020 at 10:42 AM, Britprius said:

I use Techstream on my cars. Not having tried shorting the pins on the OBD port I cannot comment on if that works or not, but it may be worth trying.

John.

Hi mate, could i ask what version of techstream you use and do you need an activation key to read codes ect.

Thanks

Britprius · May 19, 2020

I am running version 13.00.022 on one Windows 10 computer, and an early version "about 10 years old I think about version 8 " on another Windows XP computer. Both work equally as well. I bought adapters with the programs on disc from eBay at about £25. If you go this route make sure the version you are buying is suitable for the version of Windows you are running as the drivers are different.
No activation code needed. If you have a Toyota/Lexus car be it hybrid or not this will pay for it's self the first time you use it.

John.

jaaniic · July 2, 2020

Update: It was a bad tire after all, which was cracked all around between thread and on the side. It would drop to 29 psi in couple hours after inflating and stay like that for months.

BillNick · July 7, 2020

Exactly how is the zero point calibration done?

I recently fitted an ISF steering ECU and wonder if I need to calibrate?

Mihanicos · July 8, 2020

The key to all laser and computer aided geometry and tracking adjustment equipment is their calibration. Otherwise, the error of the equipment will be included in the adjustment. Also, the equipment fitted on the wheels must be set to be perfectly vertical and horizontal before measurements begin.

There is non electronic tracking and alighnment equipment that use absolute methods of measurement and their factory calibration never changes. When tracking is done with this equipment, the car holds the road and obeys to the slightest movement of the steering.

A professional always looks at the condition of the tires and takes into account their position on the car and uses the factory margins to set their alighnment.

On some lexus models, if my memory serves me right, the camber cannot be adjusted. The suspension members influencing the camber must be replaced.

Chris