IS 220d Electrics/Ignition Dead

[Linas.P]

Just these:

1 hour ago, santeri said:

Keys

ID Code Box

Steering Lock

BUT, you may need to replace these if your matching donor parts do not match the rest:

1 hour ago, santeri said:

SmartKey Module

Gateway ECU

BCM... maybe

Power Source Control ECU

I know it is confusing, because it is confusing.

So let's say you have ID Code Box as xxxxx-53010, steering lock as xxxxx-53010 and smart key module is xxxxx-53010. If you get replacement set as xxxxx-53010 as well, then you don't need to replace anything else. However, if you replacement set is something like 53014, then it may not work. In my case I have replaced SmartKey Module, because my parts were 53014 and the set came with SmartKey Module anyway. I don't know if my 53010 would have worked, so I just replaced it because I had it. My set as well had Gateway and Power Source ECUs, but they were same numbers as already fitted so I have not replaced them. The SmartKey Module in my set was 53011. I have as well replaced power button, but that is not required, the replacement was simply in better condition and mine was scratched-up. I have not replaced anything else (not for this reason anyway).

[santeri]

On 6/27/2023 at 7:48 PM, Linas.P said:

Just these:

BUT, you may need to replace these if your matching donor parts do not match the rest:

I know it is confusing, because it is confusing.

So let's say you have ID Code Box as xxxxx-53010, steering lock as xxxxx-53010 and smart key module is xxxxx-53010. If you get replacement set as xxxxx-53010 as well, then you don't need to replace anything else. However, if you replacement set is something like 53014, then it may not work. In my case I have replaced SmartKey Module, because my parts were 53014 and the set came with SmartKey Module anyway. I don't know if my 53010 would have worked, so I just replaced it because I had it. My set as well had Gateway and Power Source ECUs, but they were same numbers as already fitted so I have not replaced them. The SmartKey Module in my set was 53011. I have as well replaced power button, but that is not required, the replacement was simply in better condition and mine was scratched-up. I have not replaced anything else (not for this reason anyway).

 

All clear, thanks Linas.

 

Any tips on getting the plastic steering wheel cover off to access the steering lock? (I'd rather not take the steering wheel off but it seems like I'll have to)

My steering wheel is currently locked in a straight position, blocking the two bolts that hold the cover in place. 

[Linas.P]

Do you have manual or electronic steering column? 

[santeri]

1 hour ago, Linas.P said:

Do you have manual or electronic steering column? 

Mine is manual.

I found some videos on getting the steering wheel off, doesn't seem too bad compared to some other cars.

[Linas.P]

Not too bad - disconnect the Battery, 2 small plastic covers on the sides, 2x torx T40 (if memory serves), disconnect the airbag, MARK THE ALIGNMENT, disconnect the clock spring and just undo the nut. Just make sure not to hit yourself in the face with the wheel when pulling it of 😄 

As well make sure to time the cable clock spring... or rather make sure that it doesn't move. If you clock it incorrectly then it will it apart on full lock. Else it turns total of 5 (more like 5.5) rotations lock to lock and after 2.5 rotations from once side it should be clocked correctly and cables should be at 12 o'clock. I always get paranoid when doing it, but I have little clip tool which you can put in to make sure it is locked.

Overall, it is nothing complicated, but there is potentially to mess it up if rushing it. 

Ideally get workshop manual and it will have everything step by step. 

[santeri]

On 6/29/2023 at 1:08 AM, Linas.P said:

Not too bad - disconnect the battery, 2 small plastic covers on the sides, 2x torx T40 (if memory serves), disconnect the airbag, MARK THE ALIGNMENT, disconnect the clock spring and just undo the nut. Just make sure not to hit yourself in the face with the wheel when pulling it of 😄 

As well make sure to time the cable clock spring... or rather make sure that it doesn't move. If you clock it incorrectly then it will it apart on full lock. Else it turns total of 5 (more like 5.5) rotations lock to lock and after 2.5 rotations from once side it should be clocked correctly and cables should be at 12 o'clock. I always get paranoid when doing it, but I have little clip tool which you can put in to make sure it is locked.

Overall, it is nothing complicated, but there is potentially to mess it up if rushing it. 

Ideally get workshop manual and it will have everything step by step. 

Thank you.

For anyone who might stumble upon this thread, my symptoms are still the same as Neville's, and I haven't changed the immo kit yet.

Now the good/bad news: I had access to an original Alientech tool, so I tired to do bench read/write of the ECU. I couldn't even get it to identify the ECU, so I think it's safe to think the ECU is dead in this case.

ECU kits are easier to come by then the Immo kits, but now the questions is which components are coded to it and need to be changed together, like in the case of immobiliser replacement. I will update once I figure it out.

[Linas.P]

ECU is is not codded to anything, so you can simply pop the ECU in, run the reset procedure and it will link with all the parts. That is at least true for IS250, but I don't see why IS220d would be different in this regard. Bonus - for IS220d there is only few ECUs available, whereas on IS250 there are few dozen different versions.

[santeri]

On 7/3/2023 at 10:02 AM, Linas.P said:

ECU is is not codded to anything, so you can simply pop the ECU in, run the reset procedure and it will link with all the parts. That is at least true for IS250, but I don't see why IS220d would be different in this regard. Bonus - for IS220d there is only few ECUs available, whereas on IS250 there are few dozen different versions.

Glad to hear that.

Following your advice, I order the ECU for a whopping price of £15(+shipping) from eBay. Same P/N and even the subpartnumber.

It should arrive tommorow, I'll post the update.

[santeri]

I'm back again, unfortunately, Parcel Force was messing about with my package for so long and I finally got it today, but, the ECU swap didn't do the trick, still no ignition. So I'm back to doing the immo kit...

 

Linas, looking through my saved post regarding this fix I came across something which I'd like to pick your brains about if you don't mind:

Quote

steering lock (column removal not required, one can simply replace PCB inside the lock)

I'm assuming it's this panel that gives access to the PCB.

If so, do you just pry it out? And would this be done without messing with the shear-off bolts that hold the steering lock in place?