Help needed: stuck control arm bolt...

[Sami Tilander]

Hi all,

I had a plan to replace the rear wheel bearing on my GS450h... This time I planned to follow the offical guide to remove the whole axle carrier... only to discover that both upper control arm and lower control arm bolts were stuck inside the bushings. I got the nuts open, but the bolts do not move at all.

What are my options? Should I try to cut those bolts? Or try with heating and probably destroy the rubber bushings?

All help appreciated...

BR.Sami

[Upex]

Can the bolt not be pushed out via a punch and hammer? Unlikely to be threaded apart from the nut, which you have off, so can only be friction and corrosion, the former of which can be jostled with via playing with the loading on the joint by hand or jack etc as pertinent to the bushing

[Farqui]

Hey Sami, your issue sounds the same as I found on my rear toe link and the bolt just would not budge.

I ended up chopping the arm and bolt out, then sourcing replacements.

In a confined space it was not easy, it probably took a couple of hours to cut everything free.

Reference thread; 

Replacing the control arms off could prove expensive, check RoackAuto for prices 😉 as that's where I sourced my tie rods.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

[Sami Tilander]

4 hours ago, Upex said:

Can the bolt not be pushed out via a punch and hammer?

No help, I've been hammering that a lot recently... The rubber will also absorb part of the energy from the hit, I think.

And thanx Lee for pointing to RockAuto, they seems to have very reasonably priced arms indeed... I found also from eBay few sellers selling Febest control arms. Any experience on Febest parts?

Mmhh, maybe I'll order the new arms, put everything back (as I still can), and wait for needed parts before start cutting anything...

BR.Sami

[Sami Tilander]

Still one concern before proceeding: if I cut the bolt... how do I get the remainings out from the bushing? The bushing is in the axle carrier, and I'd assume that changing that bushing might be very difficult... At least, some kind of a hydraulic press would be needed, right? I could not find that part from RockAuto, but seems that at least Febest has them as replacement parts, so it can be replaced...

BR.Sami

[Farqui]

Good question, my bolt was locked solid into the arm so as you can see I ended up sacrificing the old arm. 

[Mihanicos]

Hi,

There is a tool set for removing control arm bushings and bearings. It is like a puller using a long thin threaded bolt and  steel tubes of various sizes. Using the right combination of tubes and thick washers of the set, the bushing can be pushed out. Using the same tool, another bushing can be installed.

The same principle applies to bearings. If you do not have this tool, before installing an interference fit bearing, put the new bearing in the freezer when you begin work to remove the bearing. By warming the bearing housing with a camping gas flame, the new bearing can be put in position by hand. You must be quick because when it gets hot from the housing, it will need some persuasion to move.

 

Chris.

[Sami Tilander]

Something like this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ball-Joint-Service-Tool-Set-Kit-4x4-4wd-Remover-Removal-Installer-Install-Tool/291915849500?epid=2164167082&hash=item43f78a5f1c:g:JDYAAOSwpkFY6HWy

?

That looks like a tool I could try on the stuck bolt first... to see if I'm able to remove it without cutting it.

Sami

[Mihanicos]

Hi,

That is the tool I described!

 

[Farqui]

Getting sufficient access to use the tool maybe a problem tho, especially on the upper bolt(s).

Pullers and presses are often to big and bulky to get into a decent position.

I've spent several hours trying to free bolts that eventually had to be cut up but it's worth a try to see if you can free the bolt(s).

[Sami Tilander]

Update:

I ordered that C-clamp press tool and that arrived on Friday. I tried to press the bolt out from the bushing, but it did not move a bit. Only the control arm metal gave up:

Then I took the angle grinder and a cutting wheel... and now the axle carrier is removed!

Next I need to figure out how to get those bolts still off... might be easiest just to replace those bushings?

BR. Sami

 

[Mihanicos]

Hi,

Heat the bolts with a butane flame and wrap a wet cloth around the bushings so they do not get burnt. Then cool the bolts and  hit them with a hammer. Take care not to bend them. Make sure you have the nut fitted on the bolt so it just covers the bolt. This way you do not damage the thread of the bolt. Repeat the process until the bolts are free. Use WD 40 or a similar lubricant.

Another way is to cut off the bolts to the size of the bushings, then drill through the bolts beginning with a small bit and use a bigger bit as you go on. Be careful you do not drill the bushing as well for obvious reasons. 

Alternatively, you could remove the bushings using the tool. Use heat while the bushings are being pressed to cause expansion to help freeing them.

It may be worth replacing the bushes now, considering the trouble to remove them.

Regards,

 

Chris.

[Sami Tilander]

Next problem... guess what this is:

Hint: here you can see it from the other side:

Just wondering how anyone can remove a stuck plastic part... safely. I had to drill and tap the remainings out of that hole (which was btw. covered with white stuff, probably salt...).

Next will be the dust deflector... hopefully that pops off easily.

BTW. When I first time tried to change the wheel bearing, I never found exact answer to the question: do I need to take the wheel speed sensor off before removing the dust deflector. The answer is pretty clear from that picture: yes, you definitely need to do that.

The journey continues...

BR.Sami

 

[Sami Tilander]

Update (finally): dust deflector was pretty stuck, but I managed to get that out (without destroying it 😉 )

I decided to replace the bushings, so I ordered new ones from Febest. And then I took the axle carrier and new bushings and went to a local car service. They had a hydraulic press, which I don't have...

Here is the axle carrier with new bushings:

...and here is all parts installed:

All the needed pieces, ready to final assembly!

Job done! The installation was so simple compared to the removal of the parts...

BR.Sami

 

[Farqui]

Well done Sami, that escalated into quite a job

[Sami Tilander]

Yes, a lot trickier than I excepted... but luckily I don't need the car right now, so there was plenty of time 😉

Here is list of parts I used:

Rear Wheel Hub 42410-30020:

• Stark from Autodoc

Bushings on axle carrier (no separate OEM numbers, not sold by Toyota/Lexus. Whole axle carrier is 42304-30090):

• Febest TAB-245
• Febest TAB-238
• Febest TAB-244Z

48710-53020 Arm Assy, Rear Suspension, No.1 Rh:

• MOOG RK641828

48770-30090 Arm Assy, Upper Control, Rear No.1:

• MOOG RK641830

89546-30070 Sensor, Speed, Rear Lh:

• Stark from Autodoc

Bolts and nuts from local Lexus dealer:

• Bolt 91672-G1265
• Nut 94151-21200
• Bolt 91556-11475 (90105-14200)
• Nut 94151-21401
• Washer 94622-51400

I also changed the parking brake springs and taps:

• 47447-10020 Pin, Shoe Hold Down Spring(For Front Brake)
• 90501-16118 Spring, Compression(For Parking Brake Shoe Hold Down)
• 47449-30030 Cup, Brake Shoe Hold Down

Febest parts bought from http://shop.febest.eu

MOOG parts from Rockauto https://www.rockauto.com/

BR.Sami

[J88TEO]

Putting everything back is always simpler than taking them apart!

All those seized / rusted nuts and bolts! But the joy when one managed to loosen them!

Changed my rear shocks yeaterday and after a lot of swearing and a can of Plus Gas I know that feeling!