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1996 LS400 Project. Let the fun begin.....!


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Having bought the rear OEM spring insulators from Paul, I have now bought a pair of KYB shock absorbers, which seemed to be the most reasonably priced, although the choice did seem a bit limited.

That will be a job for next year though.

In the meantime I decided to add a little more bling by having the wheel badges sprayed gold to match the body badges. At some point I will be repainting the wheels and having the clip on weights replaced with self adhesive ones on the inside.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ever since changing the timing belt etc. I find that I have to regularly top up the coolant expansion tank, even after fairly short journeys, although there are no apparent leaks. This morning I noticed the heater no longer works, so I am wondering if I have an airlock which has found its way into the heater matrix.

What is best way to "burp" the system please?

 

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I have read one of the ways is raise the front of the car (say axel stands) and run the engine till at operating temperature - any air should rise and find its way.

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will add to this.

Also regarding your comment above about adding self adhesive weights to the alloys - Just ensure they don't foul the brake callipers - I had this problem with my Mark 4 LS400

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Not sure about this, but do you/did you undo the Nut at the front of the Engine which is for bleeding air out of the Head?  Did you put the Heater on full when refilling?  I think these may be important points to condsider but someone else will verify or shoot down in flames.

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Google "bleeding ls400 cooling system" and choose "images". On top of the thermostat housing there is a screw you can remove and ad coolant . I could fill almost 1 liter there when the system looked full already after changing coolant. Seems air gets trapped there otherwise. 

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I found the following which seems to cover the procedure, so I'll have a go later, although I did read somewhere else that it may have to be done more than once.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/609291-how-to-bleed-the-cooling-system.html

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I have just bled the cooling system and added nearly 2 litres(!) of coolant in the process, so obviously there is a lesson learned there. At least the heater works now, although I noticed the level in the expansion tank has dropped to about half, so that will need topping up when it's cooled down, as well as checking the engine level by removing the 17mm plug.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I have been investigating what's involved in rebuilding the parking brake system, which still doesn't perform very well, despite careful adjustment.. Mostly it would involve stripping and cleaning everything, although I think replacing the two rear cables and the shoes would be a good idea.

As far as I can tell Lexus no longer supply the cables, although aftermarket suppliers do. Blueprint only make the right side, whereas the likes of Ashika, Japanparts and Triscan do, at prices ranging from £12.96 to £47.55, all from Autodoc. Quite a difference. Blueprint's price is £22.76, so mid point.

Does anyone have a real world experience of these manufacturer's products?

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BluePrint is a no-no for me these days since I had a brand new Blueprint UCA .....  before I heard of Amayama / RockAuto ......  and it only lasted 43k miles ..........  Amayama provided at the similar cost OEM Toyota stamped UCAs which should last approaching 170k / 200k miles

Malc

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1 hour ago, Howplum said:

As far as I can tell Lexus no longer supply the cables

One of the cables is listed on Lexus Parts Direct, maybe both are available from them. I'm pretty sure a member on here has purchased at least one of the cables from Lexus recently.

Regarding Blueprint stuff, I have the Blueprint left and right parking brake cables in the garage and they look good quality to me. I bought them with some other parts as a job jot 18 months ago. The part numbers are - ADT346247 and ADT346248 and I don't need them anymore😉 I understand stuff like the UCA's are not as good and don't last as long as OEM but parking brake cables are maybe just as good or good enough.

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  • 2 months later...

There is not a lot to report because I have just been enjoying the car, apart from the temperamental instrument gauges. However, I may have found a replacement  cluster on  eBay, so assuming it's the correct one and the seller doesn't want silly money I could go for that one. The other option is to pack it off to BBA-Reman who will repair it for £172 and give it a "lifetime" warranty.

The MoT is due soon, so I thought I had better have a look at the front brakes, which have just started squealing, but that was easily solved with judiciously applied copper grease.

However, whilst I had my head under the front wheel arches I noticed that both dust shields were very rusty, and one has started to part company with the steering knuckle. Replacements seem to be available a £43 each, but before I order them I wondered if anyone has done this job. As far as I can see only the axle hub needs to be removed, but the axle nut is at 217 ft. lbs., so quite tight! However, it looks as though I wouldn't have to worry about disturbing the bearings, because that's when it starts getting complicated. I guess "cracking" the axle nut with the car on the ground would be best. I assume neither of the axle nuts has a left hand thread. 

Any useful hints or tips would be appreciated.

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23 hours ago, Howplum said:

 

However, whilst I had my head under the front wheel arches I noticed that both dust shields were very rusty, and one has started to part company with the steering knuckle. Replacements seem to be available a £43 each,

Any useful hints or tips would be appreciated.

Thought Disc Dust shileds were available for my '93 LS but on attempting to purchase, came back with refund and no longer available. Tried several places to no avail.    Pig of a job anyway as small bolts will shear and so ended up; drilling a hole and wiring the loose part to part of the Caliper which does not move. Need to them fibreglass outer side to strengthen- perhaps. Didn't get around to it.

Good luck.

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Dust shields ....  are they MOT stuff too ?

Can't say I've ever seen any mention of them from my indy mechanic nor MOT Advisory whatever 

Malc

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I haven't checked availability yet. At the moment I am assuming that the fact they are listed on LPD's website is a good sign, but thanks for the warning Stuart.

Can I assume from your comments that they can be accessed without disturbing the bearing?

If they're NLA then hopefully the broken one can be repaired. They look quite tricky to replicate.

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16 hours ago, Howplum said:

Can I assume from your comments that they can be accessed without disturbing the bearing?

I had one replaced by Lexus Bolton without removing the hub and bearing etc. There is a way/method of doing it but I wasn’t privy to it. I would guess that maybe the lower thinner bit was cut and bent enough to get it in place, bent back and bolted up or a section cut out. The hardest bit would be getting the rusted bolts out without snapping them, plenty of penetrating fluid, time and a lot of patience is needed.

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I think Paul has suggested how its done without the hastle of Hub removal etc.  Those four small bolts that hold it on will likely shear. Making the task very difficult even if you can easily get to them.

Imagine if they do shear you would need to get a drill to bore out part of the remains and then use self tapping screws. How difficult will that be?  I did keep photo's of how I hooked my part up, but sadly can't find them and the Car in France ..................

Malc, the MOT inspection didn't comment on my fix - maybe I was lucky? No advisories.

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1 hour ago, runsgrateasanut said:

and the Car in France ..................

no worries there for sure :wink3:  the way values are going yours is actually increasing in value all the while it's laid up incapacitated ...........  that's the plus side ..........  I guess the downside is ???

Malc

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So replacing the dust shields looks reasonably straightforward, in principle, subject to rusty bolts.

I will now check and see if they are still available.

Before that though I will be overhauling the parking brake system with new cables and shoes, prior to the forthcoming MoT test.

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The front dust shields are still available, so I have ordered a pair from Lexus Parts Direct. The cost is not dissimilar to ordering from alternative suppliers abroad, factoring in the cost of shipping, duty and VAT.

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