1996 LS400 Project. Let the fun begin.....!

[Howplum]

I searched using "Toyota terminal removal". Try that.

[Malc]

1 minute ago, Howplum said:

"Toyota terminal removal"

be very very careful the instructions are correct if translated from the Japanese

" Toyota  terminal ...................  removal "                  ..............  to the breakers 

Malc

[runsgrateasanut]

Hello Howard, did you buy new Sump and Autobox plugs from Lexus direct or eBay. What price?

[Howplum]

Hi Stuart,

They were for the differential, although they might be the same, I don't know.

I got them from Lexus Parts Direct and they are both listed on their website. They weren't any more expensive than those on eBay, although there is a delivery charge. Oddly, the drain plug is cheaper, even though it includes a magnet!

https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-ls/lexus-ls-phase-ii-1995-2000/lexus-ls-2-brakes-transmission/lexus-phase-2-rear-differential-drain-plug/

https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-ls/lexus-ls-phase-ii-1995-2000/lexus-ls-2-brakes-transmission/lexus-phase-2-rear-differential-fill-plug/

I must say I find Daniel Walker at Lexus Part Direct, who are based in Swindon, extremely helpful.

His email address is daniel.walker@fish-bros.co.uk.

[Howplum]

Re. the damaged connector, apparently Lexus still do the housing, so I have ordered one of those. I am struggling to remove the teminals from the existing connector housing using my homemade tool, which is a modified jewellers screwdriver. One option is to carefully cut them out with a small hacksaw and insert them into the new housing.

Although Lexus can supply the repair terminals, as they call them, they are already fitted with a short lead and are around £6 each!

However, I have found these on eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/F-050-electrical-electronic-terminal-Sumitomo-Toyota-replacement-repair-wiring/293508817095?hash=item44567d20c7:g:6AgAAOSwGz9ar-w4

Although I found a used replacement connector on eBay, which might involve splicing 19 wires, I might get some of the above terminals because some of the terminals will not be usable, so I can cut the relevant wires off the damaged connector, crimp on the new terminals and fit then into the new housing.

This is starting to get an expensive lesson, but hey ho, you're never too old to learn!

[Howplum]

Whilst waiting for my electrical bits and pieces to turn up I thought I would replace the nearside door mirror because the heating element was showing through in the bottom left corner:

I had managed to source a good used one on eBay which was even in the correct colour, although I sprayed it anyway because there were quite a few scratches.

Having read up the process on the internet it all went according to plan, in that nothing broke and everything looks undisturbed after reassembly. In all it took less than an hour to do the job.

I did discover that the internal door frame trim has to come off before the door card can be lifted, but this just unclips, although there are two types of clips. Two of these on the top frame:

And two of these on the rear frame:

Once the door card is off (not forgetting to disconnect the puddle light!) this is what there is:

Removing the mirror is straightforward, which I am finding is quite common on a Lexus, although I discovered after I had struggled to separate the connector that it helpfully slides upwards off the mounting bracket, which makes life easier.

I also took the small lower cladding panel off that sits in front of the rear wheel. It had been damaged and I was curious to see how it was attached, other than by the two screws on the return flange. There is clip at the bottom edge and a couple of dabs of sealant/adhesive, although the top edge sits under the stainless steel trim at the top.

The stainless steel trim is just held on by a clip which I squeezed slightly with pliers and the trim came away - all very easy.

The plastic cladding has quite a deep gouge in it, so I will repair that shortly. It's so much easier doing it off the car.

[Howplum]

At last I have been able to replace the damaged connector for the instrument cluster. The used replacement arrived on Friday so I spent a couple of hours or so fitting two multi-pin connectors:

The bits of cardboard were to keep the wires in the correct order, which made life easier. I am now pleased to report that all the warning lights now work, thanks to Steve's expert attention.

I successfully repaired the small piece of cladding, but disappointingly the shade is slightly darker, although according to all the sources I found the paint code is UCA31, which is what I ordered.

The paint supplier I used has a spectograph, so when circumstances allow I will take a sample trim to them for a better match, although potentially I might end up repainting all the lower cladding. This is exactly how fairly small jobs can escalate, as I'm sure many of you know.

 

 

[Howplum]

This afternoon I removed the lower front bumper corner trims which had been badly damaged over the past 24 years. The fixings certainly didn't want to give up without a fight, so in the end I had to cut through a couple of them.

I don't think their removal makes a significant difference to the look of the car, so on balance I think I'll live without them.  New ones are no longer available, and no doubt used ones are likely to be pretty ropey.

 

[Mikaelse]

Good idea Howplum . Mine are also a bit battered and coming loose at the edges.

[Howplum]

After more research I managed to find the correct paint code for the lower cladding, which is UCA76, Medium Grey Metallic, as opposed to UCA31, Dark Metallic Grey. The panels are now repaired, painted and reinstalled, although the lacquer finish could be shinier. Because it was so warm yesterday I think the paintstarted to dry before it hit the panel, but hopefully they will polish up.

As you can see from the photograph I have had new tyres fitted, which was was done prior to having the MoT test this afternoon, and I am pleased to report that it passed, with no advisories. A milestone!

However, I noticed that the speedometer is not working, and I assume this might be the common sticking needle syndrome, so will leave it for the moment to see if it frees itself with more frequent use. I'll use the satnav as a precaution, for the time being. I've never had a speeding fine in 55 years of driving, so don't really want one now.

My next job, after finding any excuse to use the car, is to finish restoring the seats, and cool cloudy days are best for that.

 

[Razor61]

You’ve done an amazing job and brought the car back from the brink👍

[Howplum]

Thank you. Hopefully I can enjoy the fruits of my labours by taking the long way to the supermarket! I musn't rest on my laurels though, there are still plenty of little jobs to do to keep me occupied!

[Malc]

On 5/18/2020 at 7:59 PM, Howplum said:

New ones are no longer available, and no doubt used ones are likely to be pretty ropey.

this whole lower front bumper trim section, the whole length,  I had surgically removed a few years ago now  It's simly a tad too low for UK kerbs etc and aesthetically it really does suit the car not to be there

I would think most Mk3s no longer sport this poor bit of design

Malc

[runsgrateasanut]

My Speedo Needle stuck for the first time this year.

Below is the link to the Cluster removal but I've been searching for a thread that says you don't need to spend any money as some suggest replacing a part, or sending it to someone who will make a charge, but can be done using a Q tip to remove lube that has trickled down the pointer and onto the Post, where it holds the pointer in hot weather by being sticky. 

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/electrical/instrumentcluster.html

Let me know if you want me to scan and Post it as I believe it may have bene on the Club L  site but I didn't find it.

Glad I printed it off some time last year. 

It may be on a thread on this site somewhere? 

[Howplum]

Thanks Stuart, that's very useful. I can remove the instrument cluster with no problem, so will try using a cotton bud to clean the needle.

[Howplum]

I've found this link, so I'll give it a go:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/225935-how-to-fix-your-speedo-needle-when-it-does-not-work-4.html

[runsgrateasanut]

Well found Howard.  Don't overlook the Rev needle as it also sticks on occasions.

Let me know how easily you found the task in due course.

I many times took out various Merc Instrument clusters but not tackled this one, yet. Only stated playing up after my fourth year of ownership. So possibly been no trouble for 23 years!

[Howplum]

I took out the instrument cluster (again!) this afternoon and dismantled it far enough to get access to the rear of the speedometer needle, which turned out to be a sealed unit, so is different to the one I found online.

After looking at it for a few minutes and then giving the needle a gentle flick, I put everything back together and reinstalled the cluster.

To my surprise the speedometer now works so presumably the gentle flick was all it needed. Obviously I need to use the car frequently to prevent a repetition - as if I need an excuse!

 

[Malc]

58 minutes ago, Howplum said:

the gentle flick was all it needed

often a gentle tap in situ resolves Ls400 problems

Malc

[royoftherovers]

18 minutes ago, Malc said:

often a gentle tap in situ resolves Ls400 problems

Malc

A gentle tap, in the pursuit of perfection. A paradox innit ?

[Howplum]

Although the speedometer now works, the temperature gauge has now stopped working! It could be an unfortunate electronic coincidence, or maybe I damaged it when I was playing about with the instrument cluster. One step forward and one step back.

On the plus side, I have now finished restoring the seats, which have turned out quite well.

Before:

And after:

[Howplum]

Having passed the MoT test successfully (the car, not me!), I have been wafting around locally, on essential journeys only of course, just to make sure everything works as it should, and that I have not forgotten to put anything back properly, and so far so good. Obviously it's much more comfortable than the daily driver, a BMW 1 series, but it's also quite a bit bigger! This has turned my thoughts to reversing sensors, which seem like a sensible insurance, especially as the bumper has to come off anyway at some point for minor rectification work. Any thoughts?

The gold badges have been bothering me, especially the front one (top left), which are starting look their age, so I removed them this afternoon, VERY carefully.

Remembering one of the episodes of Salvage Hunters: Classic Cars in which they restored a Volvo 121, they had the boot lid moulding refurbished and chrome painted, and it looked brand new. Anyway, I have found a company, Invicta Spray Chrome, who have quoted £10 per badge, which seems quite reasonable to me. The question is, do I stick with gold to retain originality, but which probably has limited appeal, or have them converted to chrome?

The badges on the wheel centres polish up well though.

 

[ambermarine]

I always thought the gold badges looked a bit blingy and the chrome is more Lexus if you get my drift.

[Razor61]

Yes they are a bit blingy maybe but my opinion, and it’s just my opinion, is that on a dark coloured LS400 they look really really good, stand out and suit the car. I have had lots of comments from people at work saying the gold badges look good.

[Howplum]

I don't mind them and, as you say Paul, they do suit the car. However, I can't imagine BMW or Mercedes-Benz offering them as an option. Way back in the 60s I had a 1955 Ford Zephyr Zodiac Mk I, which had gold badges as standard, so its not exactly a new idea.

I suppose having the wheel badges done in gold as well might be a bit OTT though!

As Kenny Everett's Cupid Stunt used to say "It's all in the best possible taste!":