electrical system Dead electrics

[Lanternman]

I had the Battery pack out to check it's condition after a dash warning.  It's getting end of life but the worst I saw was corroded terminals, so cleaned them and put it back together.

Now the car is effectively dead.  No dashboard. No diagnostics.  I only have headlights and horn, also when opening door drivers door with key (sensor not working) the other doors work on central locking.

I have checked fuses, all good.

Any help in what I should do next will be much appreciated.

[OldTrout]

Hi David,

I have read on this forum about the isolation switch not being fully slid over. You think you have done it but it has not moved over completely and the last little bit is what connects. This is from memory but if I have it wrong somebody will pop up in a minute or so.

John

 

 

[Britprius]

Perfectly correct John. After closing the lever the unit is slid depending on it's orientation sideways, up, or down. This last operation connects the 12 volt supply to the HV relays to allow them to connect the HV Battery.

John. 

[Lanternman]

Thanks guys,

A diagnostic techie picked me up on that, and yes, it is properly installed, thanks anyway.  But he seemed to think even with the Battery pack disconnected the diagnostic circuits (all 12V) should be live, but they are not.  It seems a bigger problem.

[Mihanicos]

Make sure that the 12v Battery is fully charged.

Regards,

 

Chris

[Lanternman]

Thanks, it's a good 12.8V. It works headlights fine. The big Battery pack is good too.

[Herbie]

The 12V Battery only powers up the entry/exit system and boots the computers necessary to bring the hybrid system to the READY state, after that all work is done by the traction Battery.

Looking at it logically, something is stopping that from happening. Even though you think the safety interlock is correctly seated it's got to be worth pulling out and reseating again, just in case. After that, logic would suggest that it must be something else that you've worked on or disturbed. You said that you found corroded terminals so you cleaned them and put it back together - maybe you missed a link from one cell pack to another? Maybe you missed tightening one terminal or damaged a pack control wire or something (if such things exist)?

[Lanternman]

That's good comment, thank you.  The interlock key has been in and out a few times, it only fits one way, the handle slides and clicks fully shut.  I will measure Battery pack volts next (when it stops raining!).  I know all modules are good and have similar volts.  I did triple check the module links before final re-assembly, but you never know, if the pack volts are suspect it will have to come out again.  I can see a scrapman looming .....

[Mihanicos]

Quote

 

You must check the power Battery voltage, it should be about 300 volts dc. If not, you probably have an open circuit somewhere along the series connections on one or more individual cells of the Battery. Check that all your connections are correct and good.

If you have access to a Techstream or a similar scanner it would be a great help.

Chris.

[Lanternman]

Yes, I will check actual power Battery volts and take it from there.  I have access to scanners, but as there is no power to the diagnostic circuits, they are no help!