2008 GS300 No heat on passenger side

[KevH]

Just for info if anyone in the future is looking at this thread 🙂

Here is a picture of the passenger side of the heater box. I removed the duct that feed the passenger foot well that is plugged into A , if I change the settings from face to feet the gear wheels move and the foam pad at A moves to the side letting air out. If I change the temperature the gear marked B moves and I can see inside the airbox through hole A and can see the deflector plate moving.

I found a matrix on eBay so its on its way as i hate to say it but it is looking like the matrix 

Kev

 

[KevH]

Here is another picture that shows the radiator, it slides into a slot in the side of the air box that ive marked with an arrow (this is a LHD drawing so some of it is the wrong way around for us)

Kev

[royoftherovers]

3 minutes ago, KevH said:

Just for info if anyone in the future is looking at this thread 🙂

Here is a picture of the passenger side of the heater box. I removed the duct that feed the passenger foot well that is plugged into A , if I change the settings from face to feet the gear wheels move and the foam pad at A moves to the side letting air out. If I change the temperature the gear marked B moves and I can see inside the airbox through hole A and can see the deflector plate moving.

I found a matrix on ebay so its on its way as i hate to say it but it is looking like the matrix 

Kev

 

Found any sign of corrosion yet Kev ?:):):)

[Farqui]

 that brings back memories...

I spent many hours wresting with those pesky blend door controls!

Take the control levers apart and you'll be in for a heap load of...fun.

[KevH]

Just now, royoftherovers said:

Found any sign of corrosion yet Kev ?:):):)

None whatsoever !

 

[KevH]

1 minute ago, Farqui said:

 that brings back memories...

I spent many hours wresting with those pesky blend door controls!

Take the control levers apart and you'll be in for a heap load of...fun.

Yip, and thats why I haven't removed them lol . 

 

[Farqui]

^ good, only 'go there' as a last resort.

What radiator flush product did you use?

[KevH]

Holts speedflush (2 bottles) as Halfords had it in stock

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/radiator-repairs/holts-speedflush-250ml?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=-xwwarwarpt&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:94971|cid:865695751|agid:43902126895|tid:aud-297219198889:pla-330017885415|crid:202397318385|nw:g|rnd:10330581918022059297|dvc:c|adp:1o1|mt:|loc:1007337&gclid=CjwKCAiA0uLgBRABEiwAecFnk8cz-yJqb0uD4W3hUaMbt4cwLeNEDrsvy7UCaSTTxmwJSqoDTaLYYhoCrI8QAvD_BwE

 

[KevH]

Hi folks,

Quick update on my problem. Ive had to put the car back together as I need to use it and I was waiting on some things being delivered. The first was another heater matrix from a scrapped 450H and the other was a bottle of Forte Bio Degreaser and Cooling System Flush.

My plan is to blow the cooling fluid out of the existing matrix and pour in the Forte neat and leave it sitting for a few days. I measured the water volume of the matrix from the scrap car it it held 400ml including the two pipes and by pure luck the Forte is a 400ml bottle 🙂

I also had a look at the other matrix and found that the two pipes that go into the radiator look like they are separate and are just held in by the surrounding metal being bent over (see the picture) and im assuming there will be a rubber seal between the pipe and the radiator. So im wondering if it is possible to bend the metal back, and remove the pipe. Maybe (big maybe) this would allow a small bottle bush to be inserted into the matrix to clear any crap or would this then allow the radiator matrix to be removed without taking the dash out ?????

More investigation required for sure. What do you think ?

Thanks

Kev

 

[KevH]

I just found this picture on the web where someone bent the metal flange back on a landrover matrix and it looks like the pipes do have a rubber seal and can be removed. I need to take a good look at the car now but thats going to be a week or so away.

Kev

[Farqui]

Well done acquiring a replacement matrix.

Personally i would be reluctant to break the seal on the metal hose. But... I can see your reasoning and it may we worth a try.

Fingers crossed that an additional flush works.

[Odysseus]

Sounds like it might be worth a shot Kev, as long as you have a plan for what you'll do if the metal pipes break in your attempt.  Also it might be a wise move to replace the rubber O rings just to help avoid any leaks or worse air getting into the system.

I once had a P38 Range Rover and one of the (many, many, many) common issues was O rings perishing on the input to the heater matrix.  There was a way to replace them avoiding matrix removal but it was deeply unpleasant and involved very long screwdrivers and a lot of time in the guts of the dashboard having cut access holes in unseen trim pieces. 

[KevH]

Well my plans got delayed by the traditional Christmas man flu lol.

Yesterday I emptied the fluid out of the heater matrix (blowing it out by mouth) into a clear 2 litre bottle and as always it was clean, I then filled it with a full bottle of forte and left overnight.

Today I did the same, blew the forte out by mouth into a clean bottle and it was clear 😞 I then reverse flushed it with clean water for 15 mins.

So as a last resource before replacing the matrix I put some clean water in it and pulsed some compressed air (40-50 psi) backwards through it (yes I know I probably shouldn't) again into a clear bottle and guess what ! I found some small pieces of debris in the bottle ! I did this multiple times until I didn't get anymore then hooked everything back up and tested it.

The cold side is now hot 🙂  and the hot side is REALLY hot so it looks like a matrix blockage was the cause but I suspect the debris isn't corrosion, my water pump failed several years ago and was replaced under warranty and i bet its debris from that 😞

Its not 100% yet so Im going to drive it a couple of days then do the same thing with the compressed air and finally a full flush and replace with new antifreeze.

So, now £1100 bill and no dashboard removal so Im a happy chap.

Thanks all and have a great New Year.

Kev

 

[Farqui]

Excellent news Kev, well done persevering and I'm glad you now have a functional matrix again.

Your success will spur me on to flush mine and use the fluid I bought earlier this year.

[steveledzep]

1 hour ago, KevH said:

Well my plans got delayed by the traditional Christmas man flu lol.

I emptied the fluid out by mouth into a clear bottle and it was clean, I then filled it with a full bottle and left overnight.

Today I did the same, blew out by mouth into a clean bottle and it was clear 😞 I then reverse flushed it with clean water for 15 mins.

So as a last resource I put some clean water in and pulsed some compressed air (40-50 psi) backwards. through and guess what I found ? The cold side looks like a  blockage was the cause.

Its not 100% yet so Im going to do the same thing with the compressed air and finally a full flush 

So, now Im a happy chap.

A bit drastic Kevin. A couple of Lemsips usually does it for me 😁

[Farqui]

On 12/18/2018 at 10:18 AM, KevH said:

Here are the photos. If you remove pipe A temporarily to get access there are two hose clips (circled) on pipe B and C , move these down the pipe and with some force the pipes unplug. Ive marked the water flow (B is the inlet to the matrix) so stuff a hose pipe up pipe C to flush it.

Kev

Kevin, are those OEM hose clamps a one use affair or can they be re-tightened?

What about the plastic end doohickies?

[KevH]

They are spring clips, squeeze them to remove then and they tighten when you release so you can reuse them as much as you want.

 

i took the plastic bits off and didn’t bother putting them back on .

 

kev

[Farqui]

Thanks Kevin, I thought it best to check and be prepared before ripping into mine.