Sealing a tyre valve (for HIFI need)

[Cotswold Pete]

Now this may seem like a bonkers question, but here goes.

If I seal the valve on an inner tube (bike, schrader valve) with - say - some J&B weld, will that mean the tube will never deflate.

Reason for asking is that I have both my Thorens Record Deck and Marantz CD player mounted on  Asda Solid Marble Chopping board, with 16inch inner tube underneath to act as a isolater.  this really improves quality of the bass, and does not cost the fortune something like a Stratbase,  or Townsend.

Problem is  the air leaks out, and I assume the valve just needs sealing once I have got correct PSI in the tube.

Any thoughts.

[malcolmw]

Unfortunately, air will permeate the inner tube rubber and it will deflate very slowly anyway even if you seal the valve. It is probably not the valve leaking anyway.

[Cotswold Pete]

36 minutes ago, malcolmw said:

Unfortunately, air will permeate the inner tube rubber and it will deflate very slowly anyway even if you seal the valve. It is probably not the valve leaking anyway.

Okay, that knocks my idea on the head, did wonder if the tube was permable. 

Shame!

[Herbie]

This might be worth a read:

https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/54476/why-oxygen-leaks-from-tires-faster-than-nitrogen

[normski2]

Have you tried sorbothane pads under the feet of each unit? You can find various sorbothane products on eBay, there are even hemisheric pads of different diameters. Like this.

Sorbothane hemispheres

I've found that works a treat. I got lucky years ago and was given some small 3" squares of different thickness to play with (at the time I was helping with developing some isobarik speakers).

Here's a tip for speakers. If they are of reasonable age (my iso's are circa 1992), have a gentle feel of the rubber diaphragm surrounding the cone. If it feels a bit harder or stiffer than you recall... then try a good application of Gummi Pflege or 3. I was staggered at the difference it made to my speakers. The diaphragms are now soft and beautifully pliable again. Did the same for the designer of the isobarik's set and he was utterly blown away by the improvement.

[Cotswold Pete]

2 hours ago, Herbie said:

This might be worth a read:

https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/54476/why-oxygen-leaks-from-tires-faster-than-nitrogen

Did not know that fact, is this why ATS try and get you to have Nitrogen in tyre for a few more £££.  I wonder if they would inflate a 16inch bike tyre to 10PSI for a few pence?

2 hours ago, normski2 said:

Have you tried sorbothane pads under the feet of each unit? You can find various sorbothane products on ebay, there are even hemisheric pads of different diameters. Like this.

Sorbothane hemispheres

I've found that works a treat. I got lucky years ago and was given some small 3" squares of different thickness to play with (at the time I was helping with developing some isobarik speakers).

Here's a tip for speakers. If they are of reasonable age (my iso's are circa 1992), have a gentle feel of the rubber diaphragm surrounding the cone. If it feels a bit harder or stiffer than you recall... then try a good application of Gummi Pflege or 3. I was staggered at the difference it made to my speakers. The diaphragms are now soft and beautifully pliable again. Did the same for the designer of the isobarik's set and he was utterly blown away by the improvement.

Good idea will be buying some to try out.  In past tried squash balls - cut in half - but they did compress eventually.  Also they look naff as it was hard to get a decent 50/50 split straight cut and get the platform properly level.. 

On speakers, have Kef Q35 (in dining room) only 20 years old, still working nicely (not the most HiFi but good enough to enjoy a roast dinner with a nice wine on a Sunday).  Main speakers are SEAS units (DIY transmission lines - based on design and cross-over from Aussie outfit) , still look like brand new, and no sign of surround failure or stiffening.

Must say I liked the Isobariks, but always found they needed to be driven hard to sound their best.  Preferred sound of Spendors, and the lovely veneer finishes, but just never got around to splashing the cash.

[steveledzep]

If I recall correctly, the Thorens decks have three point suspension just like the Linns.  I'd expect inflated rubber under your marble platform to make it a bit "floppy".

The best isolation in my opinion is a wall mounted stand.  I have my Gyrodec (3 point suspension) mounted on toughened glass on spikes on a Target wall shelf.  Works very well.

[Cotswold Pete]

15 hours ago, steveledzep said:

The best isolation in my opinion is a wall mounted stand. .

I would over to able to wall mount the Thorens, but have a wife with other ideas. Have set up 3 point suspension using Linn setup technique, and damped the platter and subframe as well. Also mounted some rere earth magnets to pull the motor's magentic field down, as I use a Goldring GX1022, which with a Pocan body has no inherent magnetic sheilding.  Stills sounds blooming good for a 40 year old deck.

Been using a inner tube to good effect (not at all floppy when inflated correct) for last 20 years, just getting fed up with every 6 months having to re-inflate.