A.c. leaking

[Ben01]

15 minutes ago, messi said:

Found the leak but how do I fix it? 

From Steve's diagram above, oring type 1 (named BROCK JOINT, funny japanese translation of "block" 😉) probably. (If this is a liquid side, I am not familiar with you setup).

But could be some crack either, one way or another you or your garage has to unscrew this pipe and block, and you will see. And if I am right, you need at hand oringS type 2 too, for this pipe sealing, both ends - they will not survive disassemble and mount back this pipe, probably.

[shanra]

Hi Messi, did your A/C specialist replace the Receiver/dryer or undo the bolts for any reason when he regassed?

I had the bottom joint/pipe (in your first picture) leak after an A/c man regassed and replaced the Receiver/dryer and the only fix was replacing the pipe. It looks to be your top joint leaking onto the bottom one but make sure it's just the top one leaking.

Have a look on Amayama for the top pipe part, it maybe better to get the whole thing rather than risk another leak (if just replacing o rings) and having to pay for another regas.

[messi]

Hi Sharna how do i use Amayama? It's abit complicated, it doesn't seem to show any parts that I need

[shanra]

The part should be about £32 delivered. Click on Lexus on the home page then LS 400 then your variant and then under electrics scroll down to scheme 2 and click on Heater and Air Conditioning- cooler piping and you'll see a diagram blow it up and you can choose the part you need. If you're not sure which model choose Ls 400 then UCF20R and then you have the option of putting in your frame number which will certainly put you on the right page.

[dendonc]

Well I think my prob is sorted thanks to Messis' photo of the window & bubbles, there is nothing at all showing in my window, just a hole to the inside, so I guess it means a re-gas & refrigerant, anyone know how much refrigerant I need? thanks

[shanra]

Just go to a A/C specialist and they will do the whole thing for you and check for leaks etc. They will suck out all the old stuff and refill with the right amount of gas and oil.

Using the A/C to demist is very effective because it sucks the moisture out of the air.

[shanra]

Using the AC button to direct the air to the screen the moisture on the glass will be evaporated very rapidly, long before a screen-heater has had a chance to warm up and will continue this advantage around the side glasses and on to the rear screen. For best effect use the AC button, perhaps in conjunction with the heater in winter and on the fresh air setting (not recirculation). AC is usually extremely good at de-misting and this safety aspect of good all round visibility, even when picking up a crowd of wet noisy kids in winter, is one of AC's strong points. It has to be admitted that very occasionally the climate can be so very damp on odd days that even with the AC working effectively the demisting function can work only slowly but this is very much in the minority - for most days the AC will clear the screen almost like magic.

Taken from this website which has lots of information about A/C http://www.airconditioningforcars.co.uk/ACpage01.htm

[dendonc]

OK Shanra thanks

[messi]

Thanks for the advice. It was just that o ring. Got it fixed and had it regassed for £20 ( from a friend) and all is well so far.

[dendonc]

As mine seems completely empty of refridgerant can anyone tell me what amount to put in or do we just wait to see it through that viewing screen?

[Bluesman]

58 minutes ago, dendonc said:

As mine seems completely empty of refridgerant can anyone tell me what amount to put in or do we just wait to see it through that viewing screen?

It would seem you have a leak. I have seen them insert a dye and have a look around the system until it shows up.

[Ben01]

2 hours ago, dendonc said:

As mine seems completely empty of refridgerant can anyone tell me what amount to put in or do we just wait to see it through that viewing screen?

I am not a specialist, but what I remember from some actions, common pratice, if AC is empty for longer time was 1) air pressure test - if anything is whistling immediately, don't bother with vacuum, but fix it 2) vacuum test - if vaccum could not stays OK for half an hour or so, don't bother with freon, but try again pressure tests with some bubling agents on joints etc. 3) if vaccum stays "long enoug" but looks like there is a leak, make the best vaccum, put like a half of normal amount of freon (couple hundreds gramms?) with proper oil and dye agent, and try to use AC and look for dye=leaks. Other way is waste of time and resources I think. And in fact intentional release of any freon, for test purposes too, is IMHO "in bad taste" and illegal now.

[dendonc]

1 hour ago, Ben01 said:

if AC is empty for longer time

Hi Ben, I emailed the seller & asked if he ever put refridgerant in it, I'll have more history on it if he replies.

Does anyone know how much refridgerant to put in it? my indi regases but I've no idea what he knows about the rest.

[Ben01]

8 minutes ago, dendonc said:

Does anyone know how much refridgerant to put in it? my indi regases but I've no idea what he knows about the rest.

Find better specialist maybe, any decent AC workshop has database per model/year how much and what agent they shall use. If they have to ask customer or "there is no AC sticker under bonnet so I have no idea", they are not so good.

The info from previous owner is important, if we talk about AC not used for years and with significant leak (like, air ingress into system for long time), back to my previous post. And AC dryer should be replaced before any vaccum test even, not before filling. All this is common knowledge for AC guys (even for DIY boy like me), find any.

[dendonc]

 

There is one I contemplated earlier this week until I checked to see there was any refridgerant in it, which there is not, have you ever heard of them? 

http://www.alpinair.co.uk

.

[dendonc]

So what does 'Evacuate System' mean & why is that of any benefit, anyone know?

[Ben01]

1 hour ago, dendonc said:

So what does 'Evacuate System' mean & why is that of any benefit, anyone know?

I don't believe you try to trained yourself as AC technician on a car forum, by random incredible basic questions. Buy or download any books or manuals on cars AC, please, and read them. Or watch hours of less-than-more accurate youtube's "how-tos". Or don't bother yourself and find a decent AC service in your area.

[Bluesman]

2 hours ago, dendonc said:

So what does 'Evacuate System' mean & why is that of any benefit, anyone know?

 

[Ben01]

I am not a [censored] specialist, but even I have seen (ok, I watched briefly) at least two or three problems with video above - I did not notice he has using of any oil, and nobody should shakes bottle like this over the compressor, evacuation should by much longer. But who cares, lets sing chorus https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwBKjK7Xik0:

Everybody is Google-Fu Fighting
Those kids are fast at repairing
In fact, it is a little bit frightening
But they think they do an expert DIYing

[Bluesman]

The question was " So what does 'Evacuate System' mean & why is that of any benefit, anyone knows?"

The video answered that question more than satisfactorily.

I saw no shaking of the cannister, I did see him turn the canister45/90 degrees. 

There are some things in life that we have to leave to the experts and I believe this is one of them. You have to pay at some stage for everything in life or trying to do it cheap will cost you more in the long run.

[Ben01]

35 minutes ago, Bluesman said:

I did see him turn the canister45/90 degrees

... and this 90deg. action is wrong and potential disaster (flooding the compressor, and name is "compressor" not "pump" for reason) Sorry I called this "shaking" (I am obviously not native).

[Bluesman]

2 minutes ago, Ben01 said:

... and this 90deg. action is wrong and potential disaster (flooding the compressor, and name is "compressor" not "pump" for reason) Sorry I called this "shaking" (I am obviuosly not native).

Another good reason for leaving it to the experts.