Is300 sportcross gear box identification

[chrisgixer]

Hi 

can anyone tell or guide me as to whhich auto gear box is fitted to this car? Manufacturer and model number? I need to order and replace a solenoid valve. (Sigh)

 

ta 

[ColinBarber]

It's a Toyota/Aisin A650E transmission - however there are different flavours of the A650E as the one used on the LS/GS/SC 430 has upgraded internals.

Use toyodiy.com or 7zap.com to find the correct Toyota part code for your solenoid

 

[chrisgixer]

Wooo, maybe you can get the staff after all.

 

thankyou Mr Barber 👍

[chrisgixer]

Ok just to update this in case it helps anyone else....

we diagnosed the fault, p0763, not to the solenoid, but to the spade connector that attaches to solenoid c as open circuit. We don’t know why, but unplugging and re seating the connector fixed the problem and the car now runs with a fault free box and manual mode is available again.

p0768 solenoid D was also throwing a code intermittently and showed high resistance from the ecu loom plug so that spade connector was re seated as well. E was also seen with a fault on 1 occasion. 

the input turbine speed sensor fault p0715 we presumed was caused by the box not selecting the right gear and has not shown a code since obviously with no corrective action taken. 

 

Question remians... why would a clearly attached spade connector go open circuit while still connected? The solenoids sit in atf in the sump. They were clipped on, in place, as you would expect. Nothing was visually at fault. With a meter attached to the white with blue trace wire to solenoid c we could see the cnnnection being made just by wiggling the plug to solenoid c as it sat in situ. Removed the plug, cleaned the spade connector and the solenoid tab, refitted, all good. Resistance showing 12 to 13 ohms. 

...but for how long? I know it’s common practice for autobox connections to sit in oil  but oil does block an electrical signal, and the fault did go from intermittent to permenant over the period of almost a 6 months. D and E showed high resistance of up to 18 ohms, so they were cleaned as well, and if left probably would of gone the same way. They were showing 12 to 13 ohms on re assembly after cleaning.

 

can only assume some sort of build up on the spade connector and tab on the solenoid caused the fault. Weird.

[chrisgixer]

Ps, as the pins are so small on the ecu to loom plug, don’t do what we did, and stick a paper clip down the loom plug to get to the pins as that will cause the connector to not connect when the loom is plugged back in. As if we didn’t have enough Argo already.....

 

Try and and find something the same size as the ecu pins to connect a meter to the loom plug wires if possible, to avoid damage to the pin connector. We probably stretched to connector open with the paper clip, causing a bad connection. 

[ColinBarber]

16 hours ago, chrisgixer said:

can only assume some sort of build up on the spade connector and tab on the solenoid caused the fault. Weird.

Weird indeed. I cannot really see how this occurs if the spade connector is tight against the metal tab, unless some sort of corrosion occurs on that mating surface.

I'd suggest the issue is possibly:

• the wire at the spade connector, either the crimp/solder or a wire break just before the connector
• faulty connection of the solenoid tab on the inside
• poor earth return or loom damage, especially as you had multiple solenoid/sensor issues.

[chrisgixer]

1 was thoroughly checked and found to be totally sound by metering with the spade removed and wiggling and agitating the wire to spade connection.

2 solenoid tab solid as a rock and again wiggled to death with meter attached. Solid fault free readings.

3 earth wire is on the front passenger side of the gear box to body bolted directly to both. It’s covered by the under tray so barely any corrosion. Very solid connection.

Also don’t forget the other solenoids were showing increasingly intermittent faults as well. It probably took 6 months for c to become a constant fault, some times it would clear itself in the early days, then we had to clear the code with a reader and it would stay off for a while...then after a few months it would come straight back after clearing.... D and E were going the same way but at a much slower pace.

the only theory we have is a very old Battery charger was being used at one point. Owner had a back operation and the car stood for months being periodically charged. At some point during that period the ignition fuse blew when the charger was attached, which takes some doing, it’s a 90 amp fuse...Sparks and smoke escaped. Possibly leads fitted the wrong way round. Possibly the charger was faulty as it also fried the ecu on another car. ...maybe it was just being used wrongly... anyway...

We wonder if the charger delivered a voltage spike that heated some components with low resistance. If those components where sat in oil they might fry some oil onto those connections and they eventually go open circuit. ...yes I know... is that even possible, especially given the increasing intermitant nature of the fault. ...? ATF runs pretty hot anyway. 

 

Other than that that the car has had an entirely fault free life apart from an 02 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 which has returned at the same time as the gear box faults. This is behaving like a faulty sensor though, as it does clear and then return after a few miles driving. Suspect pattern part used.

 

I don’t know  what else to suggest as to why tbh. And even that doesn’t seem likely. There was no evidence of residue on the tab or spade other than oil and some slight silty residue that covers everything else in the gear box, like the stuff on the magnets in the sump. The box was in perfect condition mechanically going by the minimal residue left in the sump with the oil removed. 

 

Me no undystandy.... 

[chrisgixer]

Just to add, we were speaking with Jpat re this fault over the last few months. They have never heard of this type of fault on any car ever. 

[steve2006]

I like this post, proper diagnostics carried out first to point you in the right direction then good old fashioned fault finding techniques with a multimeter to pin point the problem and wire wobbling to confirm the diagnosis.

Good to see these days 🙂

Can you imagine the Lexus dealership method....”Multiple transmission faults...needs a new transmission....sit down for the cost Sir”