Greasing slider pins,,,,how often?

[madasahatter]

6 minutes ago, KenMavor said:

It will be......it is a perennial Toyota problem...I've had a Mr2, a Corolla T sport, Toyota Previa, the IS250 now and all have suffered from this problem......do other makes suffer??

Vw group cars are terrible for it also ford mondeo. I suspect most modern cars, its an easy job if you saw what was involved you would begrudge paying lexus.

[PCM]

3 hours ago, Odysseus said:

Off the back of this thread I’ve asked Lexus to lubricate my slider pins at my next service for which they’ll charge an hours labour.

Hopefully money well spent!


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Had mine done at Japex for £40.

A Lexus dealer told my wife it's a 'sealed' unit, and they don't recommend it, though they would if asked...

I assume they meant the rubber end bits?

[leelacey17]

I'm in the process of trying to get out the lower pin which has seized on one of my rear ones. Got new pins ready but can't get the little $#@€ to move. Mole grips and a propane torch is probably going to be the next option. Has anyone used a torch on them before? And if so was it effective?

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[KenMavor]

I have just had a look and can't really be arsed.

Top pin undid fine but the pad locating pins I just could not get them to move.  Can see it would be easier if you could get at them whilst in ramps.

As it's now snowing, and I am in a garage with the door open to get some light in I thought I'd rather be inside in the warmth a with a cuppa.

Pads and discs in reasonable shape so will leave them until MOT is due in June and get garage to replace discs and pads and pins etc.  Will wait and keep an eye on Eurocarparts and buy parts when they have a sale on........however they do seem to be the DFS of the car parts world...they ALWAYS have a sale on.

More pressing is my daughters rear brake discs on her Fiat Grande Punto so will do them first.

 

 

 

[jumbojake]

Did my swap to summer tyres today and checked the caliper movement as usual .... rear o/s is siezed  .....N/S was nice and loose  (although pins were dry, so all greased up)

The bolt comes out easily enough (although dry), but even with a crowbar I can only rotate it a bit.  Cannot  push it back at all (even with a lump hammer to help)...... time to buy a replacement.... sadly I can see Lexus Sheffield selling them new for £120, just can't wait for their delivery times (2wks!).  Probably get a re-furbished unit.

I've had the car 4 years and not had a problem before (check them 2x year, but first time I've seen a  problem).   What I don't understand is no symptoms ... pads have even wear, and measure up the same as the N/S ... can only guess it just had enough movement left to work.  Regardless, needs fixing

 

[is200 Newbie]

What type of grease are you using and do you grease them twice a year or just check them

[jumbojake]

I normally just check them (push in the pads slightly and check for free movement)... never had a problem with seizures before. 

I greased the n/s with red rubber stuff ......clearly need to pay more attention going forwards.

[OldTrout]

There are several threads on the various forums about greasing caliper pins, what grease to use or not to use. There is a newly formed company called ProSlip which is marketing a pack of three little tubes of grease for the various brake components.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=ProSlip

I have no connection with this company other than buying a little pot of the caliper pen grease before this triple pack was available. I asked ProSlip if they would give any discount to LOC members and they said yes!

Enter the code LEX6YOU6 at checkout to get 20% off.

John

[OldTrout]

See also http://proslip.com for more information about each product and some videos.

J

[jumbojake]

mine is all done... new caliper on the rear o/s ... got one from Lexus Sheffield for £126, which seems like a reasonable deal.  (about half what I found elsewhere)

[leelacey17]

Just got a rear one from Lexus Sheffield as well via their eBay shop. It will be going on the car next week

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[dazed]

I must be the luckiest guy on the forum as I've had a couple of IS250s over the last 12 years and have never encountered this problem despite covering 250K miles.

Is it possible that my high mileage actually helps reduce the likelihood of the problem occurring?

[rich1068]

Reviving this one.

My dad's XC60 has started groaning from the OSR and a quick look shows the pad isn't in contact with all of the disc when braking. Could this be related to the topic discussed here?

[madasahatter]

5 minutes ago, rich1068 said:

Reviving this one.

My dad's XC60 has started groaning from the OSR and a quick look shows the pad isn't in contact with all of the disc when braking. Could this be related to the topic discussed here?

Sounds very much like it, when contact on the disc is not 100% these are the problem areas. A quick look at the discs can tell a story, nice and shiny nearly always confirms

all is well. Blue and stinking discs usually equals sticking. Slider pins need a re grease or caliper piston stuck and not returning. Could be caused by

pads well worn.

[rich1068]

Thanks for that.

Pads should be OK. The car is just under 4 years old and only done 25k miles. No dash lights either. He also turned 80 in January and doesn't exactly drive on the edge.

He's going to get them checked at a local garage this week but when he mentioned it and then I had a look I couldn't help thinking about this thread.

I don't suppose getting up to speed and slamming the anchors on a few times would do anything?

[KenMavor]

21 minutes ago, rich1068 said:

Thanks for that.

Pads should be OK. The car is just under 4 years old and only done 25k miles. No dash lights either. He also turned 80 in January and doesn't exactly drive on the edge.

He's going to get them checked at a local garage this week but when he mentioned it and then I had a look I couldn't help thinking about this thread.

I don't suppose getting up to speed and slamming the anchors on a few times would do anything?

Probably too late for that but I suspect it does help if the brakes are well used on occasions and not gently trod on all the time.

Best get them checked and specifically ask the slide pins to be looked at.  Would also suggest that replacing the pins (those that are stuck) would be a good idea if they have seized as even cleaning them all up and greasing them will probably not solve the problem long term.  On eBay XC60 slider pins are readily available.  Might be worthwhile buying a complete set and saying to garage just replace and regrease.  Have a look and see if you can see how much pad depth is left....easier with a torch and you should be able to see without taking the wheel off.  You may find that the inner pad is way more worn than the outer if the pins are stuck and only one pad maybe making contact with the disc.

 

[Verbout]

Cleaning them up does work.

My car was looked after by a Lexus dealer prior to me buying it. <crap>

The sliders were seized on the rear  callipers, they don’t check to see if they slide, just check the pads.

I had to really clout mine with a rubber hammer and crowbar to release them.

They were cleaned up and haven’t been an issue since. Checked every year.

[PCM]

I get mine done every 12 months ...

[johnatg]

Yep - annually should be OK, but some people do them more often and it depends on miles and road conditions. Don't leave them longer than a year without a coat of looking at!

[Razor61]

Dismantled the rear brakes etc this morning on my IS250, cleaned everything, removed any corrosion and greased the sliders and pad pins, pads and clips using Proslip stuff. Took me around 3 hours but next time will be 2 hours max now I know how it all fits together. I bought the car a couple of months ago and I had read on this forum about the rear brake slider pins seizing and the need to inspect and grease them regularly. I’m glad I did this as they needed doing, they were not moving as free as they should by any means and if left over winter I suspect one side may have seized completely. New discs and pads had been fitted by Lexus a year or so ago and I could tell they weren’t moving/working correctly just by looking at the discs. Took the car for a short drive to make sure everything was still working and I can feel the difference when braking already.

All done for winter and I will take the good advice on here to do the same thing twice a year, once before winter and again in the spring. When I do them again in spring I’ll fit new slider pins.

[Vlady]

2 hours ago, Razor61 said:

Dismantled the rear brakes etc this morning on my IS250, cleaned everything, removed any corrosion and greased the sliders and pad pins, pads and clips using Proslip stuff. Took me around 3 hours but next time will be 2 hours max now I know how it all fits together. I bought the car a couple of months ago and I had read on this forum about the rear brake slider pins seizing and the need to inspect and grease them regularly. I’m glad I did this as they needed doing, they were not moving as free as they should by any means and if left over winter I suspect one side may have seized completely. New discs and pads had been fitted by Lexus a year or so ago and I could tell they weren’t moving/working correctly just by looking at the discs. Took the car for a short drive to make sure everything was still working and I can feel the difference when braking already.

All done for winter and I will take the good advice on here to do the same thing twice a year, once before winter and again in the spring. When I do them again in spring I’ll fit new slider pins.

Paul, I do it twice per year as well. Next time it will take you less than 2 hours unless there is a problem. I think I can do all 4 sides now in under 2 hours.

I noticed too that the rear ones are more prone to corrosion, I guess they have to work much less than the front discs.

[Razor61]

Yep the rear brakes need more love and attention because, as you say, they work less. Same applies on most cars. Next time will take a lot less time just to grease them. When I did them this morning it was a learning curve and cleaning properly. The main bit was cleaning out the lower caliper pin bores which which were rusty, not easy to do and takes a bit of brain matter, abrasive paper and brake cleaner😉

 

[MartinH]

What is astonishing is that this is not a service item. It is plainly an Achilles' heel for the IS250 and several other Lexus and Toyota cars. I write this as one who has just had to have a caliper (front in this case, also previously a rear) replaced — at significant cost, as others have mentioned. It would be an obvious preventive maintenance job, one would think.

[Vlady]

57 minutes ago, MartinH said:

What is astonishing is that this is not a service item. It is plainly an Achilles' heel for the IS250 and several other Lexus and Toyota cars. I write this as one who has just had to have a caliper (front in this case, also previously a rear) replaced — at significant cost, as others have mentioned. It would be an obvious preventive maintenance job, one would think.

This and warped front discs. Toyota Camry, especially with 3.5 motor also suffers this.

Preventative Maintenance job that doesn't take long, especially if the car is on the ramp, however, considering Lexus charges about £130 per hour that means they will charge you I would say about £260 for the job. I would not pay these money on my used car but the cars that still under manufacture warranty should get this treatment during service.

[Razor61]

Yep the ‘sliding caliper’ design does need regular maintenance and would be good if they were checked and done when the brakes are ‘serviced’ at a dealer. But in reality most of the time it’s a case of replace discs and pads, wheels on and move to the next job even at main dealers. It’s down to cost/time in the end.

Apologies if this has been said before. The lower pin on the IS250 slides in the caliper itself and is metal to metal plus it’s steel to cast, moisture gets in and hey presto corrosion sets in and it seizes if not sorted. Top pin slides in a rubber bush so not metal to metal and from my experience does not seize, bit sticky maybe but not totally seized. As you say it’s definitely the weak point of the design and should be checked under regular maintenance, especially at a main dealer. I do like a few bits of the design though

The caliper carrier doesn’t straddle the disc so you don’t have to remove it to replace the discs. All that’s needed is to remove the top slider bolt and the caliper swivels out of the way, if the lower slider pin isn’t seized of course.

The pads are held in with proper pins for the pads to slide on rather than sliding in the caliper carrier as in a lot of other designs.

The design is sort of a mixture of ‘normal’ sliding calipers and proper 4/6 pot calipers without the pistons either side, I hope that makes sense🤔