IS220d strange problem, possibly turbo?

Ado1379 · December 29, 2017

Hi there, firstly can I say what a helpful forum this is!

so the problem, I own a IS220D 2.2 and like a lot of people I’m starting to have a few problems. Firstly the EGR valve was blocked and the DPF wouldn’t regenerate. So I have had the DPF removed and the EGR valve blanked off. However, my problems start here.

The car will randomly lose all power and will struggle to get above 2500 revs. Exactly the same symptoms as ‘limp’ but with no warning lights or anything on the dash? The only thing I have noticed is The ‘cruise control’ light in the dash will work fine until the problem occurs and then it will turn off and I can’t turn the cruise control on again. Other than that, no other symptoms...

i have loosened the turbo off and used Mr Muscle (as well as revive turbo cleaner) thinking I had sticky veins or wastegate problems but it still hasn’t cured it.

Any ideas anyone?

Thanks

Koum · December 29, 2017

All I can say is I have a similar problem, and look forward to an answer from someone. Following post.

Shahpor · December 29, 2017

Welcome Adam,

I am a little confused by what you did to the turbo?

You can try actuating the waste gate by moving the shaft on the side of the turbo, so have you tried this to see if the waste gate is stuck?

peachy · December 29, 2017

6 minutes ago, Shahpor said:

Welcome Adam,

I am a little confused by what you did to the turbo?

You can try actuating the waste gate by moving the shaft on the side of the turbo, so have you tried this to see if the waste gate is stuck?

I'm thinking the same thing. Im almost certain it's a sticking wastegate here.infact I can't think of anything else it could be.

Koum · December 29, 2017

Could you explain how to do this? Do you have pictures?

Shahpor · December 30, 2017

It is a little tricky to described, but I hope this might help:

As you can see, it is attached to the back of the turbo and it the linkage in the second photo that you need to check to see if it is stuck.

Koum · December 30, 2017

5 minutes ago, Shahpor said:

It is a little tricky to described, but I hope this might help:

As you can see, it is attached to the back of the turbo and it the linkage in the second photo that you need to check to see if it is stuck.

Thankyou very much what could I use to loosen it? Just some wd40?

Shahpor · December 30, 2017

Depends on how stuck it is. If it is only a little then yes, you can soak it with WD40 and move it back and forth until it loosens up. If not, then more 'persuasion' would be required, normally with a pair of pliers.

Ideally, you would unbolt the linkage and move the waste gate itself by hand to see if there is any resistance, although that would could end up being quite complicated. It looks like the actuator bracket needs to be removed in order to unbolt the shaft.

Also, to be 100% sure the turbo is working properly, you would need to drive the car with the TechStream software connected to check the boost pressure whilst driving. Having said that, if you took it for a drive and it felt good then that would work too.

Ado1379 · December 30, 2017

The wastegate seems to move free, but if it was this wouldn’t it happen as soon as the turbo is used? Because it’s much more random than that.

would this also cause a warning on the dash? And would it have an input on the cruise control selection? It just seems strange because even if you go into ‘limp’ mode I’m sure you can still operate the cruise control light so I’m not sure what’s causing that to stop working when I lose power?

the problem goes away when I turn the car off then again

Shahpor · December 30, 2017

Well, it can be random when it gets stuck, but if it is free then it shouldn't be a problem.

How have you bypassed the EGR and DPF? Did you get the ECU reprogrammed at the same time?

It sounds like you need a copy of the Toyota Techstream software to see what the car is doing whilst driving.

This is another example of a car with the DPF removed. Not the same circumstance as yours, but it might give you some pointers:

Ado1379 · December 30, 2017

Yeah the ecu was mapped and EGR was blanked off, and I’m not entirely sure what was done to the DPF.

i May invest in the tech stream software.

i did read somewhere that the DPF provides a little back pressure to the turbo and maybe that has something to do with it but I’m not so sure.

The turbo works perfectly when it operating. Apart from the standard turbo lag on these cars it kicks in around 1700/1800 RPM and pulls the car nicely.

The 5th injector hasn’t been touched yet but I doubt that would have any input on this fault

Ado1379 · December 31, 2017

4D385A7E-0BF2-4E0D-A2DC-AAD4E7FAE5EE.MOVSo I’ve just checked my wastegate and sprayed WD-40 and worked it to be on the safe side.

i have noticed that when idling the wastegate is opening and closing constantly. Should it do this?

Shahpor · January 1, 2018

Nothing appears when I click on the file you posted?

I am not sure if it is supposed to happen or not. Going to have to take a look at mine next time I am out.

Is it constantly opening and closing while the car is idling?

Ado1379 · January 1, 2018

yeah It’s constantly opening and closing at idle. That link was a video of the wastegate but it wouldn’t upload.

I’m just worried that If I take it into Lexus they’ll notice the DPF and EGR and probably me charge me to have it all put back back together the way it supposed to be.

Ado1379 · January 1, 2018

I’m leaning towards a wastegate problem now. It doesn’t move when idling before my problem and then as soon as this problem starts the wastegate is constantly opening and closing on idle.

85BD1352-42B5-4E39-8D47-EA8B3C3343B5.MOV

Shahpor · January 2, 2018

It is true that the main dealer probably won't work on it since it has had those parts removed.

Since the waste gate looks to be operating properly, you might want to look at the Vacuum valve that operates it:

It is located above the turbo.

A faulty valve may explain why the waste gate is constantly opening and closing.

Ado1379 · January 2, 2018

You may be on to something here,

ive had it off and cleaned plug terminals. Had no way to check It with Battery power at work. But I’ve put it back on and it took a while to fail but it did eventually.

I even swapped around the vacuum lines and it failed instantly. Whilst it was still failed and with the wastegate opening and closing on idle I unplugged the vacuum valve with no difference? So maybe for whatever reason it just creating a vacuum after a certain period of time. ( maybe temperature related?)

ill order a second hand one off eBay and see if it makes a difference!

thank for the input I had no idea where the vacuum valve was on this.

Shahpor · January 2, 2018

Well, since the wastegate itself isn't stuck, the problem must be further up the line. The vacuum valve is the next logical place to look.

Yeah, if you swap the lines it should fail straight away, although I am surprised it kept doing it after you removed the line. Did you unplug the vacuum hose that connects to the wastegate actuator?

Do you have a multimeter? I would check the valve (or the one you are getting) for resistance at the very least before trying anything else.

Ado1379 · January 2, 2018

Yeah I’m measuring 12 ohms across the valve. Which is about right according to your picture earlier.

I hadn’t disconnected any of the vacuum lines I just unplugged it. I haven’t finished playing with it yet. I pinched the vacuum hose and it slowed down the wastegate actuator. I’ll disconnect the line to it tomorrow when it stops raining.

Im an aircraft engineer by trade but they generally don’t have turbos 😂

Shahpor · January 2, 2018

Sounds good.

Now, without wishing to derail this thread, please do tell more about what being an aircraft engineer entails.

peachy · January 2, 2018

1 hour ago, Ado1379 said:

Yeah I’m measuring 12 ohms across the valve. Which is about right according to your picture earlier.

I hadn’t disconnected any of the vacuum lines I just unplugged it. I haven’t finished playing with it yet. I pinched the vacuum hose and it slowed down the wastegate actuator. I’ll disconnect the line to it tomorrow when it stops raining.

Im an aircraft engineer by trade but they generally don’t have turbos 😂

Where you work our kid? I used to work as an aircraft engineer before going self employed.

I worked at rolls Royce derby developing the Trent engines.

Ado1379 · January 3, 2018

Well I work Avionics,

so anything with an electrical input really (radars to lights and even weapons systems on occasion)

it comes in handy as my other car is A heavily modified 1992 mini Mayfair. And as you can guess I’m constantly fiddling with that too, but again it has no turbo haha!

Miłosz · January 3, 2018

If you randomly lose power in my opinion is SCV problem. In this valve the plunger is blurred , so there is a problem with fuel preasure. Just make a live data on road and watch fuel preasure if grows linearly when you accelerate scv is ok if not , scv slowly dies . SCV cannot be cleaned and fully worked. Only replacing solved problem for longer time.

Shahpor · January 3, 2018

3 hours ago, Ado1379 said:

Well I work Avionics,

so anything with an electrical input really (radars to lights and even weapons systems on occasion)

it comes in handy as my other car is A heavily modified 1992 mini Mayfair. And as you can guess I’m constantly fiddling with that too, but again it has no turbo haha!

Well, this is a good learning experience about turbos for you then

Sounds like you work on some interesting aircraft. Would you care to elaborate?

Ado1379 · January 3, 2018

So my findings for today,

embarrasingly last night I was looking at the wrong vacuum valve and I believe I was looking at the one for the variable veins in the turbo? Which would explain the results I was getting

So after finding the right valve, I unplugged it and blew through it, air coming out the filter. Connecting it to 12v and blew through, air coming out the other vacuum pipe. So it seems to be working. However I drove the car with it unplugged and could tell no difference (turbo kicking in as normal) and I had no error codes displayed, but I did with the other vacuum valve. Surely this isnt normal? I am getting a resistance across the valve with my multimeter.

interestingly enough though, since I unplugged it and starting messing around I can’t get the car to fail again. I have added a picture because I’m not entirely sure I have the vacuum hoses in the right configuration, if someone could confirm this I would be grateful!

And thanks for all the input guys!