Time for the brakes but time burns out

[Tinonline]

I’ll do a write up with some photos on this as what the guides only tell you is a straight forward “how to” not wtf do I do now guide.

I’m fitting Lexus discs, pads and if you get your brake warning light on, that sensor. 

I’ve done discs on TR6, Renault 25, Porsche 911, BMW 635, Jag XKR, etc. etc.

My Mk4 has a complete 4 pot caliper unit; one wear sensor on the driver’s side as standard.

There are x2 anti-squeal shims each side against the calipers and x2 clips that squeeze under each pad.

I used a punch to work out the pads as pliers or grips could not do this. Tapping out top and bottom with a hammer.

The caliper bolts on driver’s side were “just beautiful” as Trump would say...then one retaining screw came out like silk. The other? Stuck fast and I changed Phillips driver options as I dare not risk shredding the head. More WD40. Then, when you least want to go, had to eat lunch. (Good time to break though).

Post rest: I used the big end of the punch and gave the screw a number of sharp bangs with a hammer. Finding a snugger fit driver, much to my surprise without any effort, the screw released.

There was no point completing the driver side without fitting a new wear sensor so I set about disassembling the other side.

To be continued: seized upper caliper bolt. My high torque impact wrench won’t budge it,  I can’t get leverage...

Ordered the wear sensor, charging the Battery over night-it’s cold and I’ve not used the car for weeks...I’ve got a heat gun thing for the weeds that will put some heat on....

What they don’t tell you in the guides...🤪 

 

[Redsteve]

Hi Simon.

Nice idea to give us the WTF fixes, they never seem to be in any of the How To Guides that I find.

As far as your seized calliper bolt goes this is what I did.

I put the socket on the bolt and chose the longest ratchet I had that would fit in the space that I had. I then put a jack under the ratchet and VERY SLOWLY and in tiny increments wound the jack up to provide the leverage.

I had struggled for a few days to get the bolt undone but with this trick I had it done in about two minutes.

I hope this helps.

Happy New Year.

 

Steve.

[Tinonline]

Happy New Year!

I tried heat but that didn’t do it. I had a back up plan. I drove a couple of miles to a friendly tyre and exhaust place where they’ve looked after my mots for years. Bit of beer money and they did it in a few seconds from the ramp.

I’ll remember your tip-oh that would have done it.

I have a mangled screw that holds the disc on, I’ll have to drill it out...always something otherwise this would have been a straight forward job.

🤪

[Tinonline]

Job almost done with a new screw required and I’m going to renew the speed sensor clip as it’s past it’s best.

The pins, shims looked ok and I cleaned them up and applied copperslip to the surfaces.

To remove the screw, I used a large drill bit that took the head off. Applying WD40 to it I removed with grips and thankfully it came out very easily. 

Pad wear was even and consistent on both sides and calipers were in good nick too with mileage now at 84k.

Pressing the calipers back was tougher on the passenger side and they need to go back enough for the shims to fit with ease.

Checking the service records, the rear pads won’t be far behind and to preserve the sensor, I’ll do that job soon. I reckon that the rear discs will take another set of pads before needing replacement.

It’s a satisfying job that can turn into a horrible one when bolts and screws are frozen solid.

[steve2006]

For the disc retaining screws I find that one of those cheap, hit it on the end with a hammer type, of impact screwdrivers normal gets them to move provided you select the best fitting bit and ensure you have selected the correct direction of the tool.

The calliper carrier bolts are very tight but having an air powered impact gun makes the job a lot easier, I bought mine from Aldi I think complete with a good selection of impact sockets for around £25.00.