Rust removed

[SHELLDRAKE]

I have got rid of the rust, the next part is to paint it, the instructions say to use a good primer, as the car is( D. Green Pearl ) what will be the best one. next problem-- the  rust is near the N.S. R. window, the chrome and rubber strip are right close to it, can they both be removed and how is it done, as you can see what I mean from the pictures

[ROYT]

Before priming I would treat the whole rusty area with Vactan, this is the best rust converter/sealer

 I have used.

 Try to get it under the window weatherstrip, to avoid any more creeping rust.

Removing the trim is not a nice job,avoid it if you can.

If there is any sort of crater left, fill with bodyfiller and sand smooth then prime with 2 pack primer

[Colin M]

I would try to remove as much rust as you can from under the weatherstrip before using any rust converter, paint etc. Lever the weatherstrip back a bit away from the paintwork using a paint/wallpaper scraper and then use a needle file to remove any loose rust from the paintwork under the weatherstrip.

The best primer I have used is Bondaprimer, which can be used over rust or a rust converter, but it seems to be no longer available in small tins.

I agree with Roy that removing the trim is best avoided.

Good luck with the repair!

[ROYT]

As above,if you prefer Bondaprimer, try Hammerite Red Oxide, this looks like a thicker version of Bondaprimer

It will brush or spray [needs thinning, it asks for Hammerite thinners but I used 2pack thinners and it sprayed no problem]

I've used both can't tell any difference

[SHELLDRAKE]

Thank you all for your info, I will see what I can do.

[GrahamG]

For the future you might want to consider a spray of ACF-50 around the rubber strip each summer. It will wick in under the seal and kill any existing rust and prevent further rust which may be important if the rust source is from under the trim. 

I do this around all windows/doors and deco trims each year.

Please do not use WD40 which will promote rust after 40 days.

[SHELLDRAKE]

Cheers Graham--What is A.C.F.-50 And where do I buy it.

[Chris Skelton]

Google it-I just did.

 

Good idea.

[SHELLDRAKE]

Cheers  Chris.

[Farqui]

1 hour ago, SHELLDRAKE said:

Cheers Graham--What is A.C.F.-50 And where do I buy it.

"CF-50, Anti-Corrosion Formula, is a state of the art, anti-corrosion/lubricant compound, that has been specifically designed for the Aero Space Industry. Itcan be described as an ultra thin fluid film compound which must be applied on an annual basis. ACF-50 actively penetrates through the corrosion deposits to the base of the cell where it emulsifies and encapsulates the electrolyte, lifting it away from the metal surface. ACF-50 then dispels this moisture and provides an atmospheric barrier which prevents any further moisture contact, thereby keeping the cell inactive. This compound continues to actively penetrate and "creep" into the tightest of seams, lap joints, micro cracks and around rivet heads, dissipating the moisture, even salt water, in these corrosion prone areas. These unique abilities of ACF-50 remain effective for 12 months, gradually disappearing as it is chemically consumed."

Extract lifted from; http://www.acf-50.co.uk/acf-50.htm

[Chris Skelton]

....and I was in Halfords this morning......BEFORE I read this!

(Getting Armorall for internal plastics.)

[GrahamG]

You only need to use a film of this product. I know bikers who just wipe over with a rag and a little spray.

It will bleed out from behind rubber seals and cover strips but it does not harm paintwork and just needs to be wiped off.

I also use the grease version to coat any vulnerable electrical components eg the ride height regulators on my air suspension.

[Newbie1]

I was cleaning under my MkIV LS400 and on both rear inner arches underneath some under seal, just behind the brake pipes, are two metal flaps. Given that they are covered under factory underseal they must have been for some higher spec model (perhaps something to do with air suspension). In any event, both had started to perish with a bit of rust and letting moisture into the inner chassis behind the flaps. The flaps pulled away easily enough after a bit of prodding with a screwdriver, and there is a bit of rust there. I'm going to clean them up and have plates welded on both sides. Quite glad I discovered them before too much rot could set in. Not sure an MOT tester would believe me if I said "they're not holes, just where I've removed factory panels..."