DIY Alloy Wheel Refurb

[J Henderson]

@bobmc 

9 minutes ago, dougie175 said:

Yeah it is between these and the 3is F sport wheels for the nicest genuine wheels for me

 

Hehe, I've got a set of these for my winter setup! 

[dougie175]

Just now, J Henderson said:

Hehe, I've got a set of these for my winter setup! 

Very jealous I have been after a set for over a year! Have my JR18s for summer be had to use my 2is F-Sport alloys I had refurbished in shadow chrome for winter as I've never come across a set of 3is wheels yet!

[Rebecca]

10 minutes ago, peachy said:

So how would the black wheels look against the white car?

 

Black wheels always look cool on white cars but yours look really nice in gunmetal. 

Personally I would go for chrome myself.

Your lexus looks lovely by the way. I also have white and really think it suits the is.

Are your windows tinted by the way?

[J Henderson]

 

2 minutes ago, dougie175 said:

Very jealous I have been after a set for over a year! Have my JR18s for summer be had to use my 2is F-Sport alloys I had refurbished in shadow chrome for winter as I've never come across a set of 3is wheels yet!

Keep an eye on eBay, that's where I found these ones. They came off a write-off and needed refurbed as a result but were quite reasonably-priced, especially after I sold the almost-new Bridgestones they were wearing. 

 

[dougie175]

1 minute ago, J Henderson said:

 

Keep an eye on eBay, that's where I found these ones. They came off a write-off and needed refurbed as a result but were quite reasonably-priced, especially after I sold the almost-new Bridgestones they were wearing. 

 

Yeah I get an email every time something with "F-Sport alloys" comes up but still no luck.

[dougie175]

10 minutes ago, Rebecca said:

Black wheels always look cool on white cars but yours look really nice in gunmetal. 

Personally I would go for chrome myself.

Your lexus looks lovely by the way. I also have white and really think it suits the is.

Are your windows tinted by the way?

Agreed chrome would look best I think, I sometimes think black alloys loose their definition and shape you cant see the pattern anywhere near as well as a silver / chrome paint

I'm actually quite a white alloy on white car fan maybe not on the 2is but it works on some cars really well I like such as

[Boddney]

I think you've done a grand job @Monocle. I did my own wheels on my MR2 Mk1 and I have to agree with you, it really is a ball ache of a job but even after all these years I still look at them and think 'I did those'.

I started with a clean up wheel first then 600 wet n dry all the way down to 1200.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/100mm-dia-heavy-duty-aluminium-oxide-rust-re/

This can be as aggressive or as gentle as you make it and best used in a cordless drill. It will leave marks which is why you need to do the wet n dry thing.

I didn't paint mine as I wanted the mirror polished effect.

On the other hand, only last week I had my GS wheels powder coated in a chrome finish for £275 inc VAT which I was well happy with.

 

[J Henderson]

Agreed, I would leave your wheels as is @peachy

My current wheels are really really dark gray and virtually black, and I think they only look nice when they are spotless and gleaming. I'd prefer it they were the actual proper factory IS-F wheel colour, or if there was a silver pinstripe around the edge or something to break things up between wheel & tyre, because as @dougie175 says, the detail of the wheel gets a wee bit lost somewhat.

[Spacewagon52]

43 minutes ago, Boddney said:

I think you've done a grand job @Monocle. I did my own wheels on my MR2 Mk1 and I have to agree with you, it really is a ball ache of a job but even after all these years I still look at them and think 'I did those'.

I started with a clean up wheel first then 600 wet n dry all the way down to 1200.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/100mm-dia-heavy-duty-aluminium-oxide-rust-re/

This can be as aggressive or as gentle as you make it and best used in a cordless drill. It will leave marks which is why you need to do the wet n dry thing.

I didn't paint mine as I wanted the mirror polished effect.

On the other hand, only last week I had my GS wheels powder coated in a chrome finish for £275 inc VAT which I was well happy with.

 

Yes that looks just what I am after........ I think???? Love the chrome - I am not keen on white or black wheels, must be an age thing! LOL

[Linas.P]

14 hours ago, dougie175 said:

Yeah it is between these and the 3is F sport wheels for the nicest genuine wheels for me

Actually looking to buy mk3 F-Sport wheels - what is the actual name, because I am struggling to find them? It seems Lexus just refers to them as "F-Sport".

In terms of my preferred wheels:

17" - the ones I have looks the best for me, not sure how they called, but I just refer to them as "IS Advance", because they were very popular with 2011 Advance trim. The last refurbishment cost £352 (with VAT) ~£88 per rim. The prices was something like £60 per rim +£12 extra for black chrome as it is 3 layer paint + VAT.

18" - For Mk2 Baransu or Hoshi, had previously had Hoshi in chrome on my F-Sport, but would prefer them in Black Chrome. But mk3 F-Sport looks the best, kind of modern yet genuine.

@bobmc - the reason I asked is because yours doesn't look standard "Anthracite", usually anthracite looks very flat and therefore I opted for black chrome, but the guys who did your somehow managed to give some shine and depth (so did good job).

[Farqui]

@Monocle considering the condition of the alloys before you started, I think you've done a sterling job especially as it was your first try.  Well done.  

The amount of effort needed to get the job done right is not to be underestimated, as you found out. It takes hard work and lots of time to do them right at home.

[dougie175]

17 minutes ago, Farqui said:

@Monocle considering the condition of the alloys before you started, I think you've done a sterling job especially as it was your first try.  Well done.  

The amount of effort needed to get the job done right is not to be underestimated, as you found out. It takes hard work and lots of time to do them right at home.

Agreed everyone think bodywork should be cheap but I do like ti when people have a go themselves and realise there's often a lot of time equipment and skill involved gives them a bit more appreciation for the work that goes into it and hopefully helps them understand the costs of repairs, not saying you wont be more often than not you are not being ripped off by body repairs its just an expensive job to do!

[bobmc]

I know we've been dragged a bit off-topic but I agree that @Monocle has done a very good job indeed and I'm looking forward to seeing the end result when all 4 wheels have been done.

 

[bobmc]

@Linas.P They do have a semi-gloss appearance, but yes Anthracite was the colour they invoiced.

[Linas.P]

3 minutes ago, bobmc said:

I know we've been dragged a bit off-topic but I agree that @Monocle has done a very good job indeed and I'm looking forward to seeing the end result when all 4 wheels have been done.

It seems I haven't said that yet (shame). But I agree - well done @Monocle!

[Monocle]

16 hours ago, Boddney said:

I think you've done a grand job @Monocle. I did my own wheels on my MR2 Mk1 and I have to agree with you, it really is a ball ache of a job but even after all these years I still look at them and think 'I did those'.

I started with a clean up wheel first then 600 wet n dry all the way down to 1200.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/100mm-dia-heavy-duty-aluminium-oxide-rust-re/

This can be as aggressive or as gentle as you make it and best used in a cordless drill. It will leave marks which is why you need to do the wet n dry thing.

I didn't paint mine as I wanted the mirror polished effect.

On the other hand, only last week I had my GS wheels powder coated in a chrome finish for £275 inc VAT which I was well happy with.

Thanks for that James. That's great advice. 

Like you, it is great to be able to say you did it yourself!

Btw, the GS wheels look great! I have been thinking I picked the wrong colour for the wheels - the brighter silver option would have been better but I suppose these will hide the dirt a bit better at least.

2 hours ago, Farqui said:

@Monocle considering the condition of the alloys before you started, I think you've done a sterling job especially as it was your first try.  Well done.  

The amount of effort needed to get the job done right is not to be underestimated, as you found out. It takes hard work and lots of time to do them right at home

Thanks Lee - it was hard work! Especially the time it takes and abandoning the family during the weekend never goes down well!!!

1 hour ago, dougie175 said:

Agreed everyone think bodywork should be cheap but I do like ti when people have a go themselves and realise there's often a lot of time equipment and skill involved gives them a bit more appreciation for the work that goes into it and hopefully helps them understand the costs of repairs, not saying you wont be more often than not you are not being ripped off by body repairs its just an expensive job to do!

Yeah, you watch the car shows on TV and you get the impression body work is a lot less work than it actually is.

 And you can see the work that goes into the jobs you've done on your own car - you're far more patient than I am!

30 minutes ago, bobmc said:

I know we've been dragged a bit off-topic but I agree that @Monocle has done a very good job indeed and I'm looking forward to seeing the end result when all 4 wheels have been done.

Cheers Bob! It will take a few weeks to complete the other three. If I finish by the end of July, I'll delighted. I will keep you guys updated!

26 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

It seems I haven't said that yet (shame). But I agree - well done @Monocle!

Cheers Linas!

Thanks to all for the feedback and advice. Actually looking forward to doing the next one now!

[Monocle]

The proejct got delayed a bit but managed to get the second wheel completed this weekend. Left Rear this time. 

If I was to give the first effort a 5 out of 10, I'd give this a 6. I'm not being over-critical just that I think I'll never get it perfect the way I'm doing it. Hand sanding will never be as good as the acid bath! Also, spraying outside if certainly not ideal!

I learned a lot from the first effort - like using a 240 grit flap disc instead of 120 grit. However, it was still way too aggressive. Next time I'll be doing everything by hand, bar a little initial go with the wire brush drill attachment. 

The final product - the white dots are bits of fluff.

[dougie175]

4 hours ago, Monocle said:

The proejct got delayed a bit but managed to get the second wheel completed this weekend. Left Rear this time. 

If I was to give the first effort a 5 out of 10, I'd give this a 6. I'm not being over-critical just that I think I'll never get it perfect the way I'm doing it. Hand sanding will never be as good as the acid bath! Also, spraying outside if certainly not ideal!

I learned a lot from the first effort - like using a 240 grit flap disc instead of 120 grit. However, it was still way too aggressive. Next time I'll be doing everything by hand, bar a little initial go with the wire brush drill attachment. 

The final product - the white dots are bits of fluff.

Good progress. Just to make you and anyone else aware if you are using DA discs but sanding by hand the grit would be far more coarse roughly twice as coarse as using the same disc on a DA.

So using a 180 DA disc by hand is actually like sanding  with 120 to 80 grit paper designed to be sanded by hand. 

240 is honestly not to coarse for refurbing wheels even 180 and 120 is fine but you do need to sand them scratches with finer and finer paper after removing what you were sanding in the first place. Other problem you will face is that I'm guessing you are using aerosol primer which has next to zero build properties unlike high build 2k. Kent aersol high build is the best you can get in am aersol by the way

[Monocle]

1 hour ago, dougie175 said:

Good progress. Just to make you and anyone else aware if you are using DA discs but sanding by hand the grit would be far more coarse roughly twice as coarse as using the same disc on a DA.

So using a 180 DA disc by hand is actually like sanding  with 120 to 80 grit paper designed to be sanded by hand. 

240 is honestly not to coarse for refurbing wheels even 180 and 120 is fine but you do need to sand them scratches with finer and finer paper after removing what you were sanding in the first place. Other problem you will face is that I'm guessing you are using aerosol primer which has next to zero build properties unlike high build 2k. Kent aersol high build is the best you can get in am aersol by the way

That's great advice, thanks - wasn't aware of any of that! Yes, I'm using all aerosols. Will purchase the high build 2k for the last two. 

I'm actually a step further than DA discs. I was using a 4.5inch angle grinder. Way too powerful to have control. The problem is that the corrosion is heartbreaking and so much effort by hand. The automation cuts the workload by 90% but at a price.

Next time I'll be using a wire brush attachment on a drill to get as much of the corrosion down. Then I'll use ascending 120, 240, 320 grits. Apply the primer, wet sand with 600 grit then prime again. Colour coat then clear. 

I'd be delighted if you could recommend another method to cut through the corrosion!!!

[dougie175]

2k means 2 parts mixed together and then sprayed so your high build primer then mixed with hardener and thinner as required, this is a superior product but will require a gun and compressor. Unfortunately due to aerosols being a sealed until you wont be able to find a 2k aerosol.

Erm theres not really an easy way to refurb wheels even with acid dipping, sand blasting cabinet and everything else at my disposal at work its still a very hard job and I pay someone else to do mine because the prices wheel refurb places charge are ridiculously cheap, it used to 2 me about 2 days solid work to take a full set of wheel from corroded to full refurbed really not worth it when places do a great job for a couple of hundred quid for a set.

Your best bet is just 120, then 180 then 240 then 400, lots and lots of primer, rub that down with 320, bit of grey scotch and paint, this will look great but without the acid bath the corrosion is still under there just waiting to come out again

[Monocle]

OK, I'm with you now on the 2k. Probably should have looked it up first! I do have a compressor but it only puts out about 4.5cfm. Not sure investing in a gun is worth it anyway as I don't have anywhere indoors to spray. 

I'll definitely follow your recommendations on the process for the next one. A question on corrosion, if I am sanding back to bare metal, ensuring all of the corrosion is removed, why would you think it would return without acid treatment?

Thanks again for all the advice.

[jackcramerr]

dougie

The body work and paint people are cons unless you find a skillful person. 

How do you find the right person... I dont know and I am trying to find one. Happy to pay 100 or 200 more than average asking price. I don't haggle with artist.

[dougie175]

8 hours ago, Monocle said:

A question on corrosion, if I am sanding back to bare metal, ensuring all of the corrosion is removed, why would you think it would return without acid treatment?

Corrosion gets pitted into the metal so you just knock the surface off the corrosion when sanding, basically corrosion starts eating and working its way down and into the metal.

[dougie175]

1 hour ago, jackcramerr said:

dougie

The body work and paint people are cons unless you find a skillful person. 

How do you find the right person... I dont know and I am trying to find one. Happy to pay 100 or 200 more than average asking price. I don't haggle with artist.

Just look for bodyshops with BS10125 the British kite mark, we cant rip anyone off or do a job that isn't 100% following the methods, as far as costs go all that is negotiable is the labour rate when you go to a BS10125 bodyshop as they will use an estimating system that uses manufacturer repair times such as Audatex.

I am in no way saying BS10125 bodyshops will be cheap as they wont be but you will be paying the correct price for the correct work to be done to your car using the times that manufacturers say it takes to complete the repairs.

https://www.bsigroup.com/en-GB/our-services/product-certification/industry-sector-schemes/automotive-product-certification-and-kitemark-schemes/vehicle-damage-repair-kitemark-pas-125/

[dougie175]

To give you some perspective I mentioned earlier I would refurb my alloys because people have undercut each other so much it really isn't worth it. I said it would take me 2 days to completely refurb a set of corroded alloys that's 16 hours so 16 x £26 (26 is the lowest my boss will allow us to work for which is justified when he is paying the lads £11-13) so £416 worth of labour plus £100 acid, sand, sanding disc, primer, colour and lacquer plus sundry materials so £516 + VAT total. This in my opinion would be a fair price for the job but because others have devalued the product so much that this would be seen as a rip off