Coolant change

[is200 Newbie]

I am planning some jobs for when the weather is better.

One is a coolant change - whats the interval for changing this?

Has anyone done a full change of coolant and any walkthrough about how to go about it?

[J Henderson]

Not sure which type is in an IS250, but;

 

LLC - Every 3 years / 40K

S-LLC - 100K

 

[is200 Newbie]

22 minutes ago, J Henderson said:

Not sure which type is in an IS250, but;

 

LLC - Every 3 years / 40K

S-LLC - 100K

 

I have had it for 4 years - put 40k on it and its at 100k now - I have only topped it up during ownership so I guess it needs doing whatever way you look at it.

Would be nice to know how its changed and also what quantity is required.

Failing that, its going in for a gearbox oil change and I can also ask the dealer to do the coolant as well, but would really like to knopw how its done.

[Verbout]

Whatever amount you drain, put the same amount back in.

If there's no drain plug, there is on mine, loosen a bottom hose.

[johnatg]

The specified coolant is Toyota Super Long Life Coolant Pink - the capacity is 9.1 litres and the change interval is 10 years to first change then every 5 years. I have to admit to using Comma X-Stream G30 instead. The workshop manual specifies Toyota SLLC or similar high quality ethylene glycol based non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite, non-borate coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology (coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology consists of a combination of low phosphates and organic acids).

The procedure is to remove the radiator cap and drain using the drain valve at he bottom of the radiator - it's towards the offside of the rad. And the two valves on the cylinder blocks. Hmm - what two valves? Try as I might, I couldn't find them and I posted on here to try and get help identifying them but no-one admitted to having actually found them.

i got about 4 litres out of the rad and the header tank and replaced it (at ten years). I now intend to drain the rad and header tank every year and replace what I get out. That way it should stay reasonably refreshed. I changed about another 4 litres this year.

After refilling you need to make sure there are no air locks - any there will eventually dissipate but you need to do several short journeys (5 miles?) and after each let the engine cool and check the level, both in the header tank and in the thermostat housing (remove the rad cap which is on the thermostat housing). You can help by squeezing the hoses which can help to work any air out.

 

[jackcramerr]

John

How could you not find the plug when it is so clear in the diagram you posted? Unless the diagram is wrong?

I am thinking of draining coolant when I change thermostate valve. I am not convinced it is working to spec.

[johnatg]

The drain valves were just plain not there. And yet you think 'well, they must be.' Mystery - maybe it 's me!

[jackcramerr]

https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2008_Lexus_IS250_2.5L_V6/coolant_antifreeze/flush_coolant

Check this out.

 

[johnatg]

Talk about words of one syllable!

I suppose it shows you how to do it.

Removing the engine cover like that is likely to break it - lift at the back first, then the front.

As the header tank easily lifts out, it's easier to empty it by removing it than pumping it out.

You don't need to mess about removing part or all of the undertray - you can reach the 'petcock' from the top and there's a hole in the tray to allow the water to flow out. You might need to arrange a bit of a deflector to guide it through the hole rather than flowing all over the undertray.

If your coolant and header tank is clean, as it should be on well-maintained IS250s you don't need to flush with 'distilled' water. It will just dilute the coolant. (And BTW - it's best to buy readymixed coolant - that way you get the correct mix and there's no risk of tapwater contamination should you plan to use that rather than deionised water.) The description of warming up and circulating the distilled water/coolant is plain wrong - that is not how temperature control of coolant flow works.

No mention of the cylinder block drains!

Apart from that....a useful guide.......

[Yoon Lee]

On 4/28/2017 at 3:46 AM, johnatg said:

Talk about words of one syllable!

I suppose it shows you how to do it.

Removing the engine cover like that is likely to break it - lift at the back first, then the front.

As the header tank easily lifts out, it's easier to empty it by removing it than pumping it out.

You don't need to mess about removing part or all of the undertray - you can reach the 'petcock' from the top and there's a hole in the tray to allow the water to flow out. You might need to arrange a bit of a deflector to guide it through the hole rather than flowing all over the undertray.

If your coolant and header tank is clean, as it should be on well-maintained IS250s you don't need to flush with 'distilled' water. It will just dilute the coolant. (And BTW - it's best to buy readymixed coolant - that way you get the correct mix and there's no risk of tapwater contamination should you plan to use that rather than deionised water.) The description of warming up and circulating the distilled water/coolant is plain wrong - that is not how temperature control of coolant flow works.

No mention of the cylinder block drains!

Apart from that....a useful guide.......

I know this Lexus technical photo is odd, but there are two cylinder block drain plugs. One locate in passenger side, other in driver side half bottom of engine. Correct step would be 1) flush radiator bottom, 2) clean reservoir tank, 3) unplug top and bottom hoses that goes engine to radiator, 4) drain engine block valves on the photo (Step 3, I done this job for waterpump + thermostat operation, you may not needed). To find two engine block plugs, https://www.my.is/forums/f221/is250-engine-block-coolant-drain-plug-location-463785/