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Posted

Guys it time to replace my Marl Levinson  radio/cd I cannot afford to get it repaired, any advice on replacements I would like to keep the powered cover though 

 

thanks.  Paul c

Posted

Hi Paul

Unfortunately you can't just 'pop' to Halfords to pick up an Autoleads adaptor kit. The Mark Levinson set up is quite unusual. Most UK car audio shops will shy away from it as there is no 'off the shelf' interface to integrate aftermarket head units with the system. It can be done but it isn't an easy task and if you purchase a new quality double din head unit + the interface it will be quite expensive. Most owners are content with the quality and facilities of the standard set up so there wasn't very much interest in it but I have documented how it can be done on another site. I think some of it might also be on here already too. Anyway here are a few pics.

84026.jpg.974ce5c01a58b8f82345ab1435e9f305.jpgIMG_0947.JPG.19cf84a704ee2e8e2d3a1b3826dfcb34.JPG

 

89003.jpg.2ad44deb88c20bcd5ad22e78e5b86a8c.jpgIMG_1005.JPG.70111703f3fdf9acb60cfce347218b94.JPG

There is a US spec. Beat-Sonic unit (MVA-13L) that can be used (with a little modification for the European model) to connect it. I had to work out the differences between what it did with the US loom and simply apply the equivalent connections to the European loom, it sounds worse than it is but I do have some amateur experience with car hifi. It took me a couple of days to sort out the wiring and the fitting of the Alpine unit into the auto door mechanism as the metal cage needs to be carefully cut to accommodate the head unit.

In my opinion it's worth doing but will probably cost more than a secondhand Fujitsu-Ten head unit. If you keep trying the breakers yards, I think one ought to come up for £200 or so. I still have mine but I've kept all of the original car parts so that if the next owner wants to change things back, they can.

Perhaps I should join the ISF crew for the 'Blat around Wales' and stop off in Swansea. If you do want to take the aftermarket head unit route, send me a PM and I will find you a contact at Beat-Sonic as I think they would make up a bespoke interface and that would make it much easier to do the conversion. 

Posted

Neil really helpful thread thanks,I have tried the breakers t6hey want 500 +vat £600 I have had the fault diagnosed its a main board in the unit at fault they want £800 + vat to sort,  I have emailed several in car entertainment guys waiting their reply's, I may order from the  USA the conversion kit facia that's only $80 all in and see what develops from there, Yes the easiest solution is to replace the ML unit and may eventually be the cheapest option. Thanks a gain so much for you reply  

 

Paul c

Posted

Hi Paul

PM sent. The whole system could be replaced to avoid using an interface but keep in mind the ML amp is designed to power the original 8 ohm speakers and a 16 ohm sub-woofer so I would say all of the speakers and the amp need to be replaced. I am aware that some UK owners have successfully replaced the paper cone 8 ohm door bass speaker with a 4 ohm oval driver and report no issues which suggests the ML amp can cope with 4 ohm loads but I couldn't recommend it. In the US they tend to do it correctly and replace the door speakers with 8 ohm drivers.

 

If I was to recommend an aftermarket set up with suggestions, it would be roughly as follows:

Double din head unit with phono leads for front, rear and sub outputs. I like Alpine.

(Lexus frequently use Fujitsu-Ten/Eclipse/Pioneer and Harmon equipment badged as ML.)

5 channel high power amplifier. I like A/B class amps that usually cost a lot of money but there are some good bargains out there. I use a DLS, in the SC but there are plenty of good quality amps to choose from. Genesis, JL Audio, Audison, etc, etc

3 way component 4 ohm speaker set for the front, carefully chosen to fit the existing positions or allow for expensive fabrication work to fit them. Optional rear mid range speakers for 'rear fill'

Sub-woofer chosen to match individual's preference. The standard is an 8" 'free air' mounted behind the rear seats. I have 2 x 10" JL Audio W3 on the back seat some of the time but a single 10" or 12" boxed sub with or without a port should do very nicely but consider where it can go very carefully.

For a good speaker set up, again I would look at Alpine as a safe bet but if you are consulting good ICE installers they will have their favourites from budget up to audiophile ranges. A 3 channel amp would suffice if the rear speakers aren't required but any amp is also going to need a separate power supply. I can show you how to do that.

So now we begin to see the value of the Beat-Sonic interface that permits the use of the original equipment. Just to provide some idea of cost, I haven't installed the K2 Focal speakers for the front so far but when/if it's done, that would make it a fully aftermarket system. The total cost would then be approx £3500 and that's without any labour. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Neil

I like your set up but i only use the car for weekends when the weather is good so i am looking to spend a little less, have had a price for a aftermarket system retaining all the features on the current ML form guys in London for £1900 and i am going to a nearby car audio specialist in Cardiff hes just completed one as shown in attachment, thanks again for your sound advice. PS how are you with water leaks into the boot from the drivers side under the rear screen ? i have changed boot seals and rear window seals still wet inside i can seee where its coming in but cannot stop it 

 

thanks again Paul c     

image1.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

The HU finish looks very good. I would be interested to learn how they deal with the amplifier and speakers. 

With regard to the water leak into the boot, my car doesn't suffer leaks at all. If the seal is okay, check that the plastic drip trays on each side are correctly fitted and the drain tubes seen here, are routing properly.

82015.jpg.932bbb27a3cc750e028fc5edca6d8d63.jpg

  • Like 1

Posted

Thanks again Neil done all that and all clear may do it all again and lock myself in boot with a torch

 

thanks

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, paulchap said:

Thanks again Neil done all that and all clear may do it all again and lock myself in boot with a torch

 

thanks

Sounds a bit drastic but I do admire your commitment to resolving the issue. :smile:

Posted

Neil.  Update on Mark Levinson radio/ cd    Decided on a standard unit found one on eBay good price but CD player us , I can see by the photos you sent me you parted the radio / cd units is it hard to so I can then  use new radio and my old CD player??? Also I think I have found my leak but sorting it out is a another problem 

 

thanks again 

 

paul c

Posted

Taking it apart is quite easy, just give yourself plenty of time, keep everything in order, take pictures to refer back to if necessary and take care with the ribbon cables. I like to use a quarter inch drive socket set to remove the screw bolts and then have a good selection of screwdrivers and bits all to hand.

Posted

Paul run a thick line of chalk around the rubber seals ( buy box of kids chalk ) ....once you've done that shut boot and run a hose over the suspect area , let the car drop dry for a 5 mins then open boot see were the chalk line has been washed away .....that will be your leak :smile:

I had to do the same thing for my front screen....now all sorted out .

  • Like 1
  • 4 years later...
Posted

I know this thread is pretty old, but hopefully someone can answer this question! I’m attempting to replace my factory unit with a pioneer digital receiver, in my SC430. I have the factory ML amp. Will I need to use the Tyto 01-05 interface, or is that exclusively for JBL amps? I’m sorry if this was already answered in this thread. I’m just looking for a definite yes or no. Thanks in advanced! 🙂


Posted
4 hours ago, GuidanceNeeded said:

I know this thread is pretty old, but hopefully someone can answer this question! I’m attempting to replace my factory unit with a pioneer digital receiver, in my SC430. I have the factory ML amp. Will I need to use the Tyto 01-05 interface, or is that exclusively for JBL amps? I’m sorry if this was already answered in this thread. I’m just looking for a definite yes or no. Thanks in advanced! 🙂

There are some subtle differences depending on year, model and the origin of the car. If it's UK or US spec with Sat Nav, it should be quite simple to confirm the the interface type with Metra Axxess or with Beat-Sonic. Axxess also list the steering wheel control interface.   

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