Shutter grille inoperable

[Vlady]

10 hours ago, ColinBarber said:

Try resetting it to clear the error and see if it comes back again. I suspect it will unfortunately.

The error suggests it is trying to move the shutters but it doesn't detect they open or close within the time expected. It isn't a wiring issue to the actuator as that would give a different code. It could still be something external to the actuator stopping it open/close properly. You probably won't be able to tell unless you remove it all from the vehicle.

 

Yes you should get 30 days free access. Looks like you have to select the 12-month option and cancel it before your trial expires so you don't get charged.

Hi Colin, many thanks, I was thinking the same thing about wiring, I also plan to borrow drive-on ramps from my neighbour (once the weather a little better and less windy) and go under the car and check shutters myself, clean them, lubricate if need be etc before I order a new actuator or take a month free of Carista.

I will keep you posted.

Colin, much appreciate your help Have a good day.

 

Vlad

[Vlady]

Ordered a new actuator from Amayama (first time using them), including postage I paid for it less than £150 (brand new), I am not sure though how much I will need to pay tax when it arrives! Also I hope delivery won't be too long!

 

[Vlady]

Just cancelled the order, I took apart an old actuator, checked the gears, connected a wee motor to 12V Battery and it works, checked the electrical card and didn't find any visible damage or water ingress or burnt line/connection, so put the whole unit back together, connected to the car and I didn;t see it moving BUT the warning message disappeared from the dashboard! Iconnected Carista to get codes and shutter grille do not appear as faulty anymore! 

I have no idea what it is or what it was. Planning to take it for a drive after dinner and see what will happen!

[Shahpor]

Excellent work Vlad 👍

Finger crossed it works.  Perhaps it was just stuck?

[Vlady]

@Shahpor I really hope so! 🙂 I am still waiting for a reply from Amayama regards my order.

[Vlady]

If someone wants to see how Grille Shutter Actuator looks inside:

 

[Vlady]

@ColinBarber Hi, you said you have access to a parts list and codes, i am after this clip between the wheel arch and the front wing, I can't find anything like that on internet. See photo below, do you know it? Thanks Colin.

 

[Shahpor]

So did it work?

[Vlady]

26 minutes ago, Shahpor said:

So did it work?

It is still working, I took the car for a 20 or so mile drive and message did not reaper and today I dropped off my daughter with child minder and there was also no message, so it worked, hopefully whatever I did it fixed the problem. I would hate to put everything back together and for message to come back!

[ColinBarber]

3 hours ago, Vlady said:

@ColinBarber Hi, you said you have access to a parts list and codes, i am after this clip between the wheel arch and the front wing, I can't find anything like that on internet. See photo below, do you know it? Thanks Colin.

 

Possibly 53879-30040 -  RETAINER, FRONT FENDER LINER

http://europe.toylexparts.com/lexus/3325b0/gwl10r-bexqbw/523w/006/3/5201/522560l/53879H#sec_53879H

 

[KayCee]

well done Vlad  glad you got it working i will know what to do now if mine pops up with error mind i didnt even know these things were fitted

[Vlady]

13 minutes ago, KayCee said:

well done Vlad  glad you got it working i will know what to do now if mine pops up with error mind i didnt even know these things were fitted

As the most people Robert, the garage I popped in (local) didn't know it either, I spoke to a friend who is a mechanic for a BMW and he knows that this exist, some BMW model do have it, I defo know that the latest 5 series have it.

[Vlady]

On 2/23/2021 at 8:00 AM, Vlady said:

@Shahpor I really hope so! 🙂 I am still waiting for a reply from Amayama regards my order.

Still waiting for any reply from Amayama, sent them already 2 texts and no replies, I also see no other way to contact them! I hate that! Grr!

[Vlady]

16 hours ago, Vlady said:

Still waiting for any reply from Amayama, sent them already 2 texts and no replies, I also see no other way to contact them! I hate that! Grr!

Got a reply from Amayama, they want 30% of list price for cancellation fee, I did not expect that much but still it is cheaper to cancel the order, which I did. Before I cancelled the order I took car for another spirited drive and still no light came up on the dashboard, I hope I somehow fixed the issue and it won't come back!

[Boosh.]

Well done for sorting that out!

If it does return, it looks like there may be some evidence of water ingress into that unit - the circuit board has some light oxidation/deposits that I have marked with red arrows and ovals onto your photo.  It can only be seen when the photo is enlarged a bit.  It may be that this is pre-existing though, and left over from manufacture.  And the motor casing shows no sign of corrosion, so that all might be a red-herring.

If it does come back, it might be worth double checking the gasket, and perhaps removing the oxidation/deposit.  It shouldn't be difficult, except that doing it without creating undue static on the board is the hurdle!

Hopefully I'm wrong, and it all carries on working properly!

I think the motor positions itself by driving the 'quarter' gear into the end stop, at which point it 'knows' the mechanism is at one limit of movement as the motor current draw rises and is detected.  It may well reverse itself to establish there is a limit point in the other direction, during an initialize. Perhaps someone knows different?

Out of curiosity, how does the motor connect to the circuit board - the connections seem hidden. The motor is just a simple brushed dc item with no rotation encoder or sophistication, as far as I can see.  They're pretty robust, especially if they're kept dry.   If it had become lightly corroded on its connection with the pcb,  it may be that dismantling it all has re-established the electrical connection to it?

[Vlady]

46 minutes ago, Boosh. said:

Well done for sorting that out!

If it does return, it looks like there may be some evidence of water ingress into that unit - the circuit board has some light oxidation/deposits that I have marked with red arrows and ovals onto your photo.  It can only be seen when the photo is enlarged a bit.  It may be that this is pre-existing though, and left over from manufacture.  And the motor casing shows no sign of corrosion, so that all might be a red-herring.

If it does come back, it might be worth double checking the gasket, and perhaps removing the oxidation/deposit.  It shouldn't be difficult, except that doing it without creating undue static on the board is the hurdle!

Hopefully I'm wrong, and it all carries on working properly!

I think the motor positions itself by driving the 'quarter' gear into the end stop, at which point it 'knows' the mechanism is at one limit of movement as the motor current draw rises and is detected.  It may well reverse itself to establish there is a limit point in the other direction, during an initialize. Perhaps someone knows different?

Out of curiosity, how does the motor connect to the circuit board - the connections seem hidden. The motor is just a simple brushed dc item with no rotation encoder or sophistication, as far as I can see.  They're pretty robust, especially if they're kept dry.   If it had become lightly corroded on its connection with the pcb,  it may be that dismantling it all has re-established the electrical connection to it?

Mike, very well explained, I wouldn't do better, me and electrics are not compatible, at all! 🙂

How the board connects to the motor I am not sure, I would guess via these 6 pins and the rest of connections are hidden, see below another photo without the motor which has 2 pins. You are right saying that the motor do not have any evidence of corrosion, the whole unit inside seemed pretty clean, even gears still have the manufacture lubricant. Anyway, I am glad it works, very happy! 🙂

I think now can be bought a spray for electrical contacts, you just spray them and it cleans without touching the board, not sure.

 

 

[johnatg]

WD40 Contact Cleaner. That's the brand WD40, not your regular WD40 spray. Other brands of Contact Cleaner are available. It's mostly Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA).

[ColinBarber]

On 2/25/2021 at 10:52 AM, Boosh. said:

If it does return, it looks like there may be some evidence of water ingress into that unit - the circuit board has some light oxidation/deposits that I have marked with red arrows and ovals onto your photo.  It can only be seen when the photo is enlarged a bit.  It may be that this is pre-existing though, and left over from manufacture.  And the motor casing shows no sign of corrosion, so that all might be a red-herring.

If it does come back, it might be worth double checking the gasket, and perhaps removing the oxidation/deposit.  It shouldn't be difficult, except that doing it without creating undue static on the board is the hurdle!

Hopefully I'm wrong, and it all carries on working properly!

All of the components appear to be covered in a lacquer or other covering, presumably to provide moisture protection. Certainly the solder joints have something over them but it isn't corrosion. The white deposits seem the same as what is on the black plastic to the bottom right of your right arrow, grease - either during assembly, disassembly or that has just spread over time due to use/vibration etc.

[Vlady]

47 minutes ago, johnatg said:

WD40 Contact Cleaner. That's the brand WD40, not your regular WD40 spray. Other brands of Contact Cleaner are available. It's mostly Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA).

I ordered wd40 electric cleaner, should be with me today, I also borrowed another brand from a friend of mine, in case mine won't arrive in time. Not sure how to seal the unit though to prevent potential water ingress. Probably silicon I will use.