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Roaring sound when braking or turning


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10 hours ago, Rebecca said:

Peachy if I had the same problem I would just pay the money and get the new discs/pads fitted and it's problem solved for a few years.

How can you say that if a stone has destroyed them. brake discs pick them up all the time, if the discs has no lip on then i would just leave them.

I would not spend over £200.00 anyway, i did front and rear for less than £150.00.

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7 minutes ago, Kodiak Sky said:

How much would resurfacing the discs cost? When you can get decent quality replacements for under £100 a pair, it would have to be dirt cheap to be worthwhile IMO.

 

Resurfacing would not be the way i would go, live with it or replace them. Getting a place to machine them would be a knight mare i imagine anyway.

I know where i live they would be only a couple of places, that could do the job.  And probably cheaper and quicker to buy new.

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Certainly not worth getting a disc resurfaced these days - cast iron is cheap - labour to set up a lathe etc is not, and you still have to dismantle the brakes anyway and buy new pads to do the job. Since both sides must match, you'd have to do both sides.

If there's just one small groove it probably doesn't matter anyway. If the damage is worse then change the discs and pads. You don't need to pay Lexus prices - plenty of excellent discs and pads available on eBay and from brake specialists - brake components don't involve rocket science.

Not sure about Rebecca's confidence about 'fixing it for years' - brakes need regular inspection and maintenance and I certainly agree that IS250s eat brake discs and pads - they should last for between 20 and 30K miles - if you drive more or less only on motorways or very slowly in town you can get quite a lot more but not for everyday main road driving in open country.

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Seems pretty pointless on a car like the IS250 to me. On a number of levels:

1) Pads and discs wear together - using the old pads on a new disc surface would quickly wear the worn pad surface into the new disc - (and vice versa with old discs and new pads but you can accept that for one or maybe two times). If the pads are damaged (ie with a deep groove) that will transfer to the new disc surface. So you really do need new pads and that means you need all the labour to strip and rebuild anyway.

2) There isn't much disc thickness to play with - there's only 3mm between new disc thickness and the wear limit - and if a 2010 car is on original brake discs they will be well worn already.

3) Once the caliper is out of the way (which involves removing one or two bolts) it takes less than a minute to remove the disc. All the time for a pad/disc change goes in jacking up the car, removing the wheel and generally cleaning and inspecting the assembly - the actual dismantling and reassembly is trivial, although you need to spend time checking the run out of the disc and possibly repositioning it.

4) And finally - you can buy perfectly good discs for ~£45 a pair and pads for £60 a pair eg from here: http://www.brakesint.co.uk/

- and cheaper versions are available.

I suppose resurfacing might just make sense if the car had very expensive discs - the skimmers site mentions Nissan GTR, Audi RS4 etc and I know some Aston Martin discs are horrendously expensive. But expensive discs are fitted to expensive cars - and why are people skimping on brakes on cars like that?

 

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My brakes are still the original lexus set. Although they are lipped would still pass the mot when due in November. The front right pad has worn uneven due to the object getting stuck or so I was told.

At the end of the day I'm probably just going to get the new discs and pads fitted Friday.  At least it will get rid of the brake noise and give me about another 25-30k before they need replacing. 

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Just to add I don't have the confidence to tackle the job myself. I tried it once on my vauxhall astra and somehow managed to get air into the system and had to call out a mobile mechanic.

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OK so your lexus may pass it's next mot. The lexus is250 is probably the quietest smoothest car you could ever wish to own. Why would you want to drive it with noisy brakes or do you just have short arms and long pockets? 😅

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On 2/18/2017 at 4:13 PM, madasahatter said:

Well there is plenty on utube etc easy job to do. Learn the basics and save yourself some money. If i lived near you i would do them for you.

Note to self: PM @madasahatter when my brakes need servicing :smile:

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On 18/02/2017 at 4:13 PM, madasahatter said:

Well there is plenty on utube etc easy job to do. Learn the basics and save yourself some money. If i lived near you i would do them for you.

Just a word of advice (to everyone) - be very careful working on someone else's car - and never, ever, do someone else's brakes or other safety critical components. Garages, mobile mechanics, etc. carry insurance. You (probably) don't - you never know what might happen!

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33 minutes ago, johnatg said:

Just a word of advice (to everyone) - be very careful working on someone else's car - and never, ever, do someone else's brakes or other safety critical components. Garages, mobile mechanics, etc. carry insurance. You (probably) don't - you never know what might happen!

Serious point but my reply was meant in jest

 

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Are the front brakes supposed to be completely silent when pressed?  Driving home from work this evening and with this thread in mind I could definitely hear my front brakes. Not squealing or grinding or anything, just the pads rubbing on the discs.

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Not completely silent Rebecca no. I've never owned a car silent brakes. With radio and fan off you will always hear the pads rubbing on the discs, even more so when coming to a stop. It's only if it's excessively loud, grinding or squealing you have a problem. 

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On ‎20‎/‎02‎/‎2017 at 8:15 PM, Rebecca said:

Are the front brakes supposed to be completely silent when pressed?  Driving home from work this evening and with this thread in mind I could definitely hear my front brakes. Not squealing or grinding or anything, just the pads rubbing on the discs.

You may hear them for a short time when braking if the cars been parked up for a bit - rain then sun or dry weather will "wet then dry" the discs creating an oxide on them (normal for discs when sat for a bit) when braking what you are hearing is like a gritty/abrasive noise for a few times pressing the brake - you will hear / feel it more on a car with front and rear brake discs.

Two maybe three times after pressing brake pedal it will go away - should not hear it after that.

On the other hand your calipers may need to be re-greased - may be enough on them to operate but dirt can get past the rubber boots on the pins and while the grease will still be enough to work it will not operate fully and may not release as fully as expected leaving one pad or both just touching the disc..

 

When was the last time these were greased?

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Is200 newbie I had a full service at toyota and I they greased all 4 calipers for me and the pads/discs are absolutely fine.

I noticed the same on my previous is220d . Not loud but I could certainly hear the brakes working.

Trivial matter I know but just wondered if the brakes should be totally silent.

Yes I know I'm a fussy cow lol.😊

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You shouldn't really hear them working - I don't on mine (maybe my hearings going!) but its nice to know they are stopping the car .... :yes:

There may be a few reasons for you to hear them when operating;

  • Drilled discs
  • Grooved discs
  • Pad mismatch
  • Slightly warped discs (although you would feel that through the pedal or the seat)
  • Dirt in the pad grooves - are the discs scored?
  • Noise from front or rear? The rear has two sets per wheel - drum and pad and while its easy to check the pad wear its not so easy to check the drum shoe wear but in relation to the pads, the shoes do not take a hammering - I changed mine last year and that was nine years of use from factory.
  • You can sometimes hear a clicking noise when braking while reversing - this is the pads moving slightly on the securing pins within the caliper - I think its from the front. No issue its just they are used to being applied with a forward force and not reverse.

Maybe you have good hearing and are being a bit too fussy ! :whistling:

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I've just ordered front brakes from euro car parts.

2x brembo discs £47 each

Set of front pagid pads £36

£130 in total and saves me £100 in garage labour costs.

Going to have a crack at it Friday afternoon. 

This is all going to go horribly wrong I just know it.

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9 minutes ago, peachy said:

I've just ordered front brakes from euro car parts.

2x brembo discs £47 each

Set of front pagid pads £36

£130 in total and saves me £100 in garage labour costs.

Going to have a crack at it Friday afternoon. 

This is all going to go horribly wrong I just know it.

Make sure you clean the discs with brake cleaner. They are coated with a film to stop rust. You have no need to open bleed nipples on the calipers.

The discs float so are not held by a screw as normal. Open the brake fluid cap if you wish but make sure you put it back on.

Pump the brake peddle 3 or 4 times when you are done, to bed the pads in.

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6 hours ago, peachy said:

I've just ordered front brakes from euro car parts.

2x brembo discs £47 each

Set of front pagid pads £36

£130 in total and saves me £100 in garage labour costs.

Going to have a crack at it Friday afternoon. 

This is all going to go horribly wrong I just know it.

Use the following as a guide

You can find it in the "How to" section of the forum. It really is an easy process. Once the caliper and carrier is off, tap the disc with a piece of wood or soft hammer and it will free itself from the hub. When fitting the new disc make doubly sure that the mating surface is clean - give it a rub down with a wire brush - if there's dirt left on the mating surface then the new disc will not seat right and cause a "wobble" when braking - it will mostly be rust dust etc anyway, so its easy to clean.

If you are re-greasing the pins also then you will need suitable grease before you start the job

Madasahatter is right - no need to bleed anything - just open the brake fluid reservoir cap to enable the fluid to expand when you come to push the pistons in when fitting the new pads - you will need to do this due to the extra thickness of both the pads and the disc.

Use something to hold the caliper up as the fluid hose is not long enough to let the caliper rest on the floor - I user either a plant pot or a bungee cord to support it.

You can also use any alcohol based cleaner (IPA - Isopropanol if you have any)

When all done - remember to secure the brake fluid cap

When testing make sure the brakes work - don't go racing off - this is only to ensure the protective film of oil has all been wiped off. Take your time and you will be fine - it will benefit you in the future knowing how they work but not only that, how to grease the pins. I would initially check the pins after 6 months and re-grease as required.

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