Locking wheel nuts

[OldTrout]

I thought I would do some preventative maintenance by greasing the slider pins on the rear callipers of my 450h. However I could not get the locking wheel nuts off on either side. I thought I would try again after the dampers had been replaced on the assumption that the wheels would have been taken off and thus it would now be easier.

It wasn't and worse the nut key has started to break up. My options would seem to be:

1) Replacement key. This is £23.07 including p&p from EVO Automotive Solutions. Then get local tyre place to remove nuts with impact wrench and I will put them back with torque wrench. (What torque?)

2) Replacement OEM nut and key set. I can do this from a breakers with four spare normal nuts for £25. (From Lexus I assume it would be a lot more.) This would leave me with problem of getting the old ones off and possibly the s/h kit may be worn.

3) Replacement non-OEM nut and key set from eBay. There seem to be sturdy looking ones for sale but they all have 60 degree tapered seats and not flat as the originals. I would still have problem of getting the old ones off.

4) Replace locking nuts with plain ones which at least would not look so awful. Do wheels get nicked these days? I would still have problem of getting the old ones off.

5) Do 1 and then 4.

I need the benefit of other's experience here. Perhaps the keys do just fail with use and are best availed.

Please advise.

John

 

[dennismate]

I had a similar problem on my 2014 GS300h, I took it into Lexus Guildford who got the locking wheel nuts off, and said they could order me a new key for about the same as they quoted you or could supply and fit a brand new set of OEM wheel nuts and key for £25. This was a no brainer, so I said go ahead - 4 new locking wheel nuts and key £25 bargain!!!

I'd steer clear of eBay ones myself and stick with OEM, they are cheaper than you'd think

Stu

[Britprius]

A friend of mine has a Hyundai. The locking wheel nuts fitted are with a box exactly the same as the Lexus nuts, and the key design is much the same.

The big difference is that the locking nuts come with a thin chrome hexagonal cover that pushes over the locknuts making them appear very similar to the non locking nuts. The covers are removed with a simple plastic tool that come in the kit. The nuts may even be the same pattern as the Lexus nuts. They are the same threads and socket size.

John

[rayaans]

If you do decide to take the locking nuts off, make sure you tell the insurance company. Some are very picky about them whilst others are reasonable. 

Id be sticking with OEM ones if going for locking wheel nuts as they're not badly priced at all. 

BTW it might be cheaper to go to a Toyota dealer. The nuts are exactly the same.

Torque should be 76 ft-lbs

 

[OldTrout]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I went for solutions 1 and a variation on 3.

A replacement key from EVO was £16.97. (I made a mistake in my original post by adding the postage which was included.) However, I still could not get the nuts off and was in danger of damaging they new key. These were on wheels that I assume must have been removed to replace the dampers a week ago! I went to my local tyre place and with a long wrench and a big hammer three nuts were loosened. The fourth was more difficult. It eventually yielded with an impact wrench but I do not now trust the new key. How would I have managed a puncture? 

I took a punt on a used set of Toyota nuts on eBay which looked the same. Part number PZ4AK-EV906-00. (£7.95 with postage.) The mating parts of the key and nut look much more robust. They are the same size and I have now replaced all four of my original nuts and tightened them with torque wrench to 76 ft-lbs - thanks rayaans.

The origin nuts (and the Toyota ones) have a steel sleeve which prevents the use of a left-hand threaded nut remover - the sleeve would just rotate. If the fourth nut had not yielded I do not know how it could be removed. The nut is hard and drilling it would be difficult. If the sleeve could be removed a smaller nut remover might work. But if not?

Perhaps once a year we should check we can actually remove the wheels?

John

[rayaans]

52 minutes ago, OldTrout said:

Thanks for all the suggestions. I went for solutions 1 and a variation on 3.

A replacement key from EVO was £16.97. (I made a mistake in my original post by adding the postage which was included.) However, I still could not get the nuts off and was in danger of damaging they new key. These were on wheels that I assume must have been removed to replace the dampers a week ago! I went to my local tyre place and with a long wrench and a big hammer three nuts were loosened. The fourth was more difficult. It eventually yielded with an impact wrench but I do not now trust the new key. How would I have managed a puncture? 

I took a punt on a used set of Toyota nuts on eBay which looked the same. Part number PZ4AK-EV906-00. (£7.95 with postage.) The mating parts of the key and nut look much more robust. They are the same size and I have now replaced all four of my original nuts and tightened them with torque wrench to 76 ft-lbs - thanks rayaans.

The origin nuts (and the Toyota ones) have a steel sleeve which prevents the use of a left-hand threaded nut remover - the sleeve would just rotate. If the fourth nut had not yielded I do not know how it could be removed. The nut is hard and drilling it would be difficult. If the sleeve could be removed a smaller nut remover might work. But if not?

Perhaps once a year we should check we can actually remove the wheels?

John

Stuck wheel nuts are usually not a problem with correct torque settings. 

In theory, they should never get stuck at the right torque. I can only think that a pneumatic impact wrench was used to tighten them until they were clicking! 

[OldTrout]

I think so too. Every single nut was very tight. I cannot believe they were tightened with a torque wrench. My local tyre place uses a torque wrench on every nut and has done for many, many years.

Recently a friend was sent by the maker of prestige car to a main dealer in Europe after the maker had supplied a replacement part under warranty two or three times in quick succession for the same car. Why was the replaced part failing? My friend observed while the part was fitted. The mechanic did the nuts up without a torque wrench despite specific instructions on the torques to be used. When he was asked why he had not used a torque wrench he said he did not need to as he had a calibrated arm. He was then instructed to do it properly and the part has not failed.

Perhaps we have calibrated arms in garages here too.

John

 

[steveledzep]

Lexus are just as guilty of over tightening the wheel nuts as tyre bays.  Every time my vehicle goes for new tyres or recent new caliper, I check the wheel nuts.  I always have to use a six foot bar on the tool kit wrench, sometimes hanging my weight (90kgs) on the end too !  I always then set each nut to 76lb ft so that wheels can be removed readily.

 

Don't know why I bother !!!  I don't have a spare wheel, just a can of gunk