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Posted
On 2/7/2017 at 2:48 PM, Farqui said:

...did I read somewhere that over 80mph the eCVT goes into over drive or something? 

 

 

Think I must have clocked it on the ClubLexus forum " The 450h uses a dual stage torque multiplication device which splits gear ratios in 2 stages, hence even when you increase speed at a very slow pace, you will feel a surge around 60 mph, this is when the 2nd stage starts. The faster you accelerate, the more you will feel the speed pickup surge on the 2nd stage.  "

Posted

The bonnet has been difficult to close, so each time I've popped the bonnet I have been gradually cranking down the bump stops. It now finally closes with just a respectable drop instead of a forceful slam. Gawd knows why the stops were set so high, as the bonnet is still snug.

The passenger footwell doesn't appear to have getting any heat. So the Mrs tootsies aren't getting warm :( Is there an actuator that can play up under the dash somewhere?

Neither of the heated front seats get as warm as our previous Civic. We couldn't stand the Civic on high for long but the Lexus on high is barely warm, by comparison. Have I read that each swab has a couple of elements and if one fails then the seats run cooler? Does anyone have any experience or guidance?

Posted

Oh and I updated my satnav so the local roads are correct now. I used http://www.latestsatnav.co.uk/

I had hoped the latest firmware would allow destination input whilst on the move, but it doesn't :wallbash:

Looking a bit deeper online it seems that a hybrid DVD is needed with the older firmware that allows input whilst rollin. Not a deal breaker I suppose.

Posted

Is your nav the same Gen5 that I have in mine?

If so, then strange about the destination input because a new disc allowed mine to be used on the move whereas it didn't on the original disc.

By the way, you never said what your mechanic thought of it?

Posted


Yup, mine is Gen5 too. The supplier claims it's the latest firmware. Sigh.

Going over to my spanner man on Friday, will let you know what we find.

Just fitted a brighter LED bulb into the boot, which should make it easier to see. I reckon I'll fit another housing on the NS before too long too.

  • Like 1

Posted

Oh yeah, the Mrs drove back in the GS this afternoon. The first time she's tiller it since a quick taster at the dealer.

She settled in easily and after a few miles said 'I could get used to this lazy driving' [emoji38] The e-CVT seems to have quickly won her over.

Reckon I'll need to hide the fob!

Posted

Just fitted my front dashcam (Thinkware F770) and hardwired into the AUX circuit via a piggy back fuse on the drivers fuse board. Earthed to the forward fuse board bolt.

As the fuse board is well recessed, I've left the cover off for the moment but I may cut a slot in later and refit the cover.
50a3921ea03d28e4eb191c7e4856b6e8.jpg

Routing the cable was easy and only needed the drivers end of the dash uncliping.  The cable was then tucked in the drivers A pillar and roof lining, up and over to the camera. Excess cable was looped up, cabled tied and tucked under the carpet well out of the way.

Will try and get the rear camera hooked up tomorrow.

Sorry, I didn't take any pic's - I'll have myself bound and flogged...oh wait, wrong forum! :lol:

  • Like 1
Posted

Hmmm, can a rear camera be installed with the rear sun shade?

index.98.jpg

Posted

the ls430 has a rear camera with the sun shade - it automatically retracts when reverse is selected

I never use mine though!

  • Like 1
Posted
14 minutes ago, cruisermark said:

the ls430 has a rear camera with the sun shade - it automatically retracts when reverse is selected

I never use mine though!

Oh really, that's neat.

Posted

The shade on the GS450H works in the same way, dropping when you select reverse.

John

  • Like 1
Posted

The rear sun shade doesn't run parallel to the rear screen, it starts further forward in front of the 3rd brake light. So I fitted the camera just above the 3rd brake light, higher would have given a better image but that would have interfered with the sun shade.

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The cable was run around the parcel shelf, up and over the rear down but I couldn't get a neat run around the top of the b-pillar.  So I dipped the cable halfway down the passenger b-pillar, popped off the lower section to loop up the excess cable (out of the way of the seat belt). The cable them went up and over the passenger door and around the top of the screen to the camera.  All neat and tidy.

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Test views

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Screenshot_2017-02-14-13-35-54.png

  • Like 2

Posted

Interesting to see the built in volt meter on screen. Picture quaulity looks very good.

John.

  • Like 1
Posted

The F770 has some nice features.

The sample images above were quick screen shots from my phone (Android) and don't look as good as the images on the dedicated PC application, like this;

dashcam PC image.jpg

Posted

That is a rather neat looking system you got there.

Tempted to try something similar myself.

  • Like 1
Posted

Gave the headlights a quick polish to see how they'd come up.

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Quite pleased with them after just a few mins work.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/3/2017 at 4:15 PM, Farqui said:

 

They now claim that they aren't leaking under the spring seat, instead it's by the bracket holding the brake hose which often appears very slight before going into a full leak.

 

I've educated them them that it's a bracket for the ABS sensor and not the flexi-brake line.  

 

I'll take a look myself (again) when I can be bothered.

 

Good spot re: the different labels on the dampers.  I know one of the earlier MOT's flagged an issue, so perhaps it was changed then?

There is another place that the shock absorbers leak from that cannot normally be seen.

On the fronts the cover over the mounting point under the bonnet needs to be removed "three nuts" these nuts only hold on the cover over the adjuster motor there are three more underneath these that hold the mount in place. After removing the nuts lift off the cover over the motor that adjusts the shock.

Sometimes you will find this cover full of oil. It come from a faulty seal inside the rod where the adjuster shaft passes through. This oil is from inside the shock absorber so if you have oil inside the cover the shock absorber is faulty.

At the rear you need to remove the carpets in the boot to gain access to the rear top mounting. If you fingers get oily touching this mounting the shock is leaking in the same manor as for the fronts, but there is no cover on the rears.

This leak point does not show under the car so it is worthwhile removing the covers to check. 

John.

John

  • Like 1
Posted

Top tip John, thanks. I'll take a look and see what I find.

Posted
Just now, Farqui said:

Top tip John, thanks. I'll take a look and see what I find.

On the fronts it is a 5 minute job. The rears take some getting at removing the carpets from the corners of the boot.

John

  • Like 1
Posted
59 minutes ago, Britprius said:

On the fronts it is a 5 minute job. The rears take some getting at removing the carpets from the corners of the boot.

John

The rear also has the Battery between the shock towers, does that make the job more awkward too?

Is there a guide anywhere?

Posted
Just now, Farqui said:

The rear also has the battery between the shock towers, does that make the job more awkward too?

Is there a guide anywhere?

I just removed the carpet cover over the 12 volt Battery removing two plastic fasteners one on top one on the side. Then pulled the carpet away from the corners enough to reach in to the mounting points. There is a strange shape plastic piece over the motor unit. This just pulls up off the three mounting pins. It is not obvious what this does. Reaching in, and moving your fingers over the area of the shock mount it will be obvious if there is an oil leak. There is no danger of electric shock in that area around each shock absorber mount.

The correct way is to remove the centre top and back carpet first "long winded". I have not seen a guide on how to do this. Next time I take mine out i'll take some notes. There are from memory some plastic hooks on the roof part of the carpet that hold the top in place along with visible plastic fasteners on the vertical piece. This fully exposes the HV Battery

John

  • Like 1
Posted

Being lazy or just getting old? I am about to fit a cigarette type power point in the boot fed via a fuse strait from the 12 volt Battery. This will be used for two or three things.

(1) To plug in my electric tyre pump.

(2) I have a 12 volt electric wheel wrench " much the same as the air wrenches used in garages, but runs on electric". No more wheel nuts I cannot undo.

(3) in the summer I can plug in a portable 12 volt fridge to keep my beers sorry sandwiches cold.

The problems with the ones in the car are they only work with the ignition, and it saves dragging possibly dirty leads across the seats.

John.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Sounds like a practical solution John, looking forward to seeing pic's :wink3:

  • Like 1

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