Waxoil

[RgrWynne]

Hi, has anybody had their Lexus LS waxoiled. Flashed up on my iPad the other day so I asked for a quote, which was £460. My friend who has  a Rover 75 which he is hoping will one day become a classic, had his done earlier this year and was raving about it. Basically the whole underside of the vehicle is completely jet blasted to remove all the muck and loose rust. They also remove any plastic wheel guards, dry everything and then spray under pressure waxoil everywhere. He told me they even did the void on the bonnet and the boot. The 64 thousand dollar question is, bearing in mind it is not a Rover 75, is it necessary. On the other hand £460 not a kings ransom if you plan to keep the vehicle, which I do. Would appreciate your opinions, and Happy New Year,

Roger

[cornershop]

Personally, I think there are better products than Waxoil, see the rust.co.uk website for a similar service in Spalding, Lincs.

[tayaste]

+1.   Dinitrol being my favourite 

[RgrWynne]

Thanks for that. Have you actually had your Lexus rustprooofed ? just trying to gauge whether  it is necessary , thanks

[tayaste]

I haven't, Both my Lexus will be long gone before it's needed.

I do use dinitrol on my land rover.

[cornershop]

54 minutes ago, RgrWynne said:

Thanks for that. Have you actually had your Lexus rustprooofed ? just trying to gauge whether  it is necessary , thanks

Personally, if it's a keeper I would get it rust proofed, but only if it's done professionally.  As always, prep is key and allowing any pre-wash/clean process to thoroughly dry before applying rust inhibitor is paramount otherwise you'll exacerbate the problem.  Had my 1987 911 done back in 2006 - there were 2 average sized carrier bags of muck/dirt blown off by air hose prior to the treatment being applied.

[GrahamG]

I strongly advise you take action to protect the underneath if you want to keep it. Just because it is a Lexus does not mean it may not rust. I wish I had rustproofed a 1995 LS400 that corroded badly.

Waxoyl I would put on agricultural machinery. It smells awful. Dinitrol and other products much preferable.

[RgrWynne]

Really appreciate the advice, just what I hoped to get, Rgds, Roger 

 

[Haylands]

I have to concur, Waxoyl has stood still, it is the same product it was in the 70's, if you have done what you suggest then the rust will just keep eating away the metal under a nice warm wet coating, rusting out the car even faster, it really is awful stuff, I feel sorry for your friend (As well as the fact he owns a Rover...!!!) Dinitrol is superb though and well worth doing....

[cornershop]

Bilt Hamber products come highly regarded too - http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-uc

[Colin M]

Yes, definitely worth doing Roger.

The cars are generally well protected underneath but there are some rustprone areas - not sure what the LS430 rear subframes are like but the ones on the LS400 rust badly. I have cleaned and wire brushed the rusty areas underneath on both of my cars and have applied rustproofing paint to the easily accessible areas and waxoyl to the less accessible areas. I reapply waxoyl on an annual basis as necessary.

When I run out of waxoyl, I might try something else - I think there probably are better products on the market now, as indicated in the previous posts - but I have been using waxoyl for about 30 years now and it has done a good job of protecting my cars.

[RgrWynne]

Thank you Colin , I will have to have a look underneath. I guess the one think I am concerned about is if they high pressure blast  water underneath will it ingress the sensors on the air suspension and then affect it. Cheers, Roger 

[Colin M]

Yes, I think it would be wise to try to cover the sensors to prevent water ingress - perhaps a strong plastic bag over the area where they are, held on by cable ties, might do the job.

I am not convinced that high pressure blasting will remove all the loose rust either. There are some areas on the rear subframe that are pretty inaccessible, mainly at the top where it fits closely to the car body. Also some of the rust on the subframes on my cars was a bit like barnacles on a ship - it wasn't loose rust but it needed chipping off with a hammer and chisel to get back to good metal! Having said this, it is still worth having it done even if one or two areas might need revisiting.

Good luck and I hope the sensor survive the high pressure blast.

Cheers, Colin

[GrahamG]

There is a wealth of information on the Rustbuster site http://www.rust.co.uk/1-contact-us/t3

Most important to get the car up on a lift and inspect with a strong light which I do late summer at my local garage. With everything dry it is amazing how much surface dirt can be blown away with a compressor.

On my 9 year old LS430 there were two areas of rust very near the rear jacking points that needed preventative treatment.

The basic procedure is to apply a liquid chemical to kill/convert the rust to a harmless substance and then apply a protective coating to prevent the rust reappearing.

Where that coating is most under stress Rustbuster sell a thick two part epoxy mastic applied by brush and that I used immediately aft of the jacking points.  

[ambermarine]

My Mark 1 rusted badly virtually from about six years old .The rust came through the rear wheel arch under the rear doors from the inside, water penetrated through the mudguards and got inside ,this was a very poor area on the mark 1 and also round the top of the rear wheel arches .

I could not get into the door side of the wheel arches so I pumped gallons of waxoyl into that area from below through the chassis ,It stopped further corrosion and in the 12 years following the other areas that went were the rear of the sills again rusting inside out( mot fail) and the rear subframe.

When I got my Pristine brand new condition Mark 4 I sprayed the whole of the non undersealed parts of the car with 6 cans of Dinitrol

4 years on it is still pristine  as a little bit of surface rust on the subframe but non on the body I sprayed the area below the bootwell with more layers than elsewhere as the metal is exposed to stone chips behind  the wheels.

Generally the metal is better protected on the later models mainly because of vast improvement in the paints used today and the chassis compartments are treated with a type of waxoyl to prevent condensation build up.

The worst condition a car can sit in regards rust and corrosion is a damp airless garage always have plenty of fresh air blowing in and out ,if that is not possible make sure the car is as dry as you can get it before shutting the doors on the garage.