EGR problem

[steve2006]

8 hours ago, jaytpatel said:

Cheers Steve much appreciated. 

If you've got part numbers for the gaskets that would be ace. 

 

 

No problem.

EGR Valve to cooler gasket is 25627-37010

EGR Valve to EGR pipe is 25634-37010 

Sorry no prices listed at present but both should be less than £10.00.

[jaytpatel]

On 6/4/2020 at 7:31 AM, steve2006 said:

No problem.

EGR Valve to cooler gasket is 25627-37010

EGR Valve to EGR pipe is 25634-37010 

Sorry no prices listed at present but both should be less than £10.00.

Thanks Steve much appreciated.

[-Rich-]

For any one who has removed the egr valve but left the cooler in place how did you undo the nut nearest the engine?

I have loosened the 2 nuts and 1 bolt holding the cooler to the block. That lower nut is a sod to reach and I've not removed it completely for fear of losing it. The cooler is only moving about 5mm and isn't even hitting the nut. Is it the pipe at the bottom that's stopping it from moving further away? If it is I guess I'm in for more scraped knuckles!

I have removed the pipe and it's gunked up with carbon so the valve will definitely need cleaning.

 

[-Rich-]

I need some help! Got the EGR off, cleaned it up and started to refit it earlier.

To remove it I had to separate the bottom part of the valve (where the pipe attaches) to the top half. There was no way to pull the valve off the long stud in one piece.

The problem I've got is I can't get one of the bolts back on. The pipe that runs alongside it and is part of the cooler covers the hole slightly. So I can't get the bolt to line up so the thread catches. I must've had the socket on at an angle when I undid.

You can see the thread in the gap on this photo. The pipe next to it can't be removed unless I undo all the coolant hoses and separate the valve from the cooler. But even if I did that I can't see how I can get the 2 bolts at the bottom of the cooler in to the holes while getting it on to the longer stud under the valve.

Whoever designed this valve needs shooting!! 🙄

[ColinBarber]

can you remove the unit, push the bolt through the hole so the head is against the body then offer it up and initially tighten up by hand, or with a socket already on the bolt?

[-Rich-]

I got it sorted in the end. What I didn't realise was that the pin the EGR is mounted on with the nut on the end can actually be removed! So I took that out, assembled the EGR and pipe back together off the car then refitted. Now I've done it once the next time will be alot easier.

The valve was completely carb'd up and I'm not surprised it kept sticking! I've not driven the car for 4 months so had forgotten what it's like but it seems to be more responsive now when accelerating. It's not juddered yet but I've only been out in it twice.

Does anyone want me to do a guide on how to remove it with photos?

[jaytpatel]

On 7/9/2020 at 11:52 AM, -Rich- said:

I got it sorted in the end. What I didn't realise was that the pin the EGR is mounted on with the nut on the end can actually be removed! So I took that out, assembled the EGR and pipe back together off the car then refitted. Now I've done it once the next time will be alot easier.

The valve was completely carb'd up and I'm not surprised it kept sticking! I've not driven the car for 4 months so had forgotten what it's like but it seems to be more responsive now when accelerating. It's not juddered yet but I've only been out in it twice.

Does anyone want me to do a guide on how to remove it with photos?

Yes please.

 

A guide would be amazing. I always assumed that the plunger type mechanism wasn't serviceable.

[-Rich-]

When I get 10 minutes I'll do one. If you remove the black sensor (2 phillips screws), then take the magnet and spring off you can push the outer part of the plunger. It was always stiff so I used to squirt WD40 on it to free it up but it didn't last long.

The photo above where it's gunked up, I wasn't holding it open, it stayed in that position when I pushed the rod. A good clean and soak in carb cleaner overnight it's as good as new with no resistance.

[stormchaser]

How is the running now after you’ve done this ?


Sent from my Iphone using Tapatalk

[-Rich-]

I'm pretty sure it's made the car slightly more responsive and hopefully that's not just a placebo effect! No juddering since but it only did that a couple of times.

I had the Battery out for a couple of months over lockdown which reset the mpg. So I'm not sure if it's made a difference to that yet.

[Nas500]

Hi all new to the thread and just had my 2011 ct200h for 10 months now. Recently been making loud noises on startup when it's cold and I feel like there is loss of power when driving like it's holding back. No fault codes so far but mechanic did once say the noise is the egr which needs cleaning. Now I've seen YouTube videos on how to take the egr pipe off however I don't feel too confortable doing it and wanted to get the Wynn's egr cleaner spray and use that first. However can anyone help by telling me which way to spray into the air intake as the air intake pipe seems to have two routes.

 

Thanks

Nas

[nizzehult]

Hi, new here so please be gentle. 
I have a wonderful CT200h Executive from 2011 with 190000 km (118k mile) and suddenly the motor lamp came on. 
Error code was P0401 so it was EGR-related. 
Removing and cleaning the whole EGR is a extensive job so I found this simple movie on youtube: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPObPig8YKw

When the plastic cover was off and I pushed the valve I could feel that is wasn't moving smooth, it somtimes got stuck. I took some WD40 and a plier and pushed and pulled the shaft on the valve 30-40 times and after that is was moving smooth again! Cleared the error code, started the engine and it worked perfectly again! 

Nevertheless, I assume that this won't last forever and the EGR has to be replaced anyway in the near future but for me it was a kind a relief, now I have time to get one. 

[nizzehult]

Finally I had to remove and clean the EGR, could not get the engine > 3000 rpm. 
This is how it looked. 
And, well...the valve itself was really cloggy and the pipe too but the cooler seemed OK. Or: I don't have time and patience to remove it since you have to drain the coolant; it's a quite extensive job but I saw the cells and they were not so bad so I skipped that part. 

After cleaning the pipe and the EGR I thought the problem was solved. 
But no, when a press the pedal to the floor it goes up to about 3000 prm and then start to oscillate between 2500-3000 rpm. Even if I press the pedal slowly. 
Engine ligth is not on and no leaks or other strange sound is heard.  
I haven't got my OBD-reader to work so I can't read any error codes but shouldn't this kind of behaviour turn on the engine light?

[ColinBarber]

2 hours ago, nizzehult said:

Finally I had to remove and clean the EGR, could not get the engine > 3000 rpm. 

The EGR won't restrict the engine from revving past 3000 rpm. You should check for intake air leaks from the vacuum pipes and that the MAF sensor is correctly connected and clean. If that all appears ok and there are no fault codes (either pending or actual live faults) then you should look at the exhaust - possibly the cat has broken up and is restricting air flow.

[nizzehult]

OK, I will get a reader tomorrow but shouldn't the engine light be on if there is a MAF or cathalytic problem? The car passed inspection in january without any problem. Idle is fine too. Has about 215000km (133' miles) on the meter. 

[ColinBarber]

3 hours ago, nizzehult said:

OK, I will get a reader tomorrow but shouldn't the engine light be on if there is a MAF or cathalytic problem?

Depends how serious the ECU thinks the problem is. Certainly you would expect the fault light to be on if the MAF is playing up, but not necessarily with a blocked exhaust.

[nizzehult]

Well I doubt that there is some kind of blocking in the exhaust but let's see what the reader says. 
OK, one final question then: if an (older) but vital error code is removed, could that make the engine working normally again? 

[ColinBarber]

48 minutes ago, nizzehult said:

OK, one final question then: if an (older) but vital error code is removed, could that make the engine working normally again? 

If a live error, which makes the engine go into limp mode, is cleared then it would go back to normal. Obviously if the fault was still there it would drop back into a fault condition.

Just clearing historical errors/saved data that is no longer contributing to a current error would have no effect.

[nizzehult]

Makes sense but I still wonder why the engine light doesn't come on if it is in limp mode? 
My reader got connected now but was unable to read any error codes, "DTC error" or something like that.
Anyhow, clearing codes was successful so I'm going out for a test now. Can also read live data, that seems to work. 

[ColinBarber]

Engine light would definitely be on if it was in limp mode.

[nizzehult]

Strange. When I drive the car I have no problem to get rpm > 6000 and the response from the pedal is quite normal. Both in Eco, Normal and Sport mode,
But...when I'm parked I can't get over 3000 rpm! Is this some kind of bulit-in limiter? Checking live data then shows a steady graph that goes 2500-3000-2500-3000-2500 etc. 

[ColinBarber]

1 hour ago, nizzehult said:

Strange. When I drive the car I have no problem to get rpm > 6000 and the response from the pedal is quite normal. Both in Eco, Normal and Sport mode,
But...when I'm parked I can't get over 3000 rpm! Is this some kind of bulit-in limiter? Checking live data then shows a steady graph that goes 2500-3000-2500-3000-2500 etc. 

The hybrid system won't allow the engine to rev past 2,500  to 3,000 rpm when in Park by design - even in inspection mode it won't go past 3,000.

[nizzehult]

Oh! Is it that simple? Thanks for clearing this out, manual says nothing about this. Funny I haven't noticed that after 3 years. 

[NemesisUK]

Why would one want to rev the engine above 3000rpm when in Park?

[Moleman]

36 minutes ago, NemesisUK said:

Why would one want to rev the engine above 3000rpm when in Park?

Good question