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Posted

I had to disconnect and recharge the Battery on my old LS430 2001. Unfortunately, the steering column adjustment up/down has stopped working since reconnecting. The in/out adjustment does however still work though!

This has happened before were neither adjustment seemed to work, but then after a few stop starts it works again. However this time it doesn't seem to want to reset!

I'm thinking there is a trick to resetting things, combination of buttons?

On the basis that the in/out steering adjustment works, but not up/down, presumably it's not a fuse as it must be part of the same mechanism?

Any suggestions out there, or do I just need to wait for it to mysteriously start working again.

Posted

Hi Damien

The issue is with the memory on the preferred driving position set before you disconnected the Battery.

Try setting your memory as it is now  then reset it to your preference  after it as started working. 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Mine goes up and down but not in and out.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the replies.

Restting my preferences doesn't work unfortunately.

Interesting that your column goes up/down but not in/out the opposite for me!

Could it be 2 separate motors with different fuses? 

Ive had it before when after a Battery recharge nothin worked, but the after a few attempts and pushing up on the wheel slightly as I operated the adjusting lever things started working again.

For me the height of the steering wheel, at the lowest setting is about right when the column moves out towards me, but it does making getting in the car a little more awkward! Someone out there knows what causes this, if I take it to my local specialist and get it fixed I will be sure to post a reply.

Rgds

Posted

............  there are several forum posts here somewhere about the two distinct motors that control the steering column movements on your Ls430. The individual motors are quite expensive and cannot seemingly just be repaired.

Good luck

Malcolm

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I read some other posts and see this is a familiar problem sometimes solved by a simple disconnect and reconnect of the positive Battery terminal.

Unfortunately, this didn't solve things for me,.

Before I follow the advice of other posts and remove a few things to give me access to the the motor to free things up, I want to check the fuse. Does anyone know of the 5 fuse boxes on LS430 where is the fuse for the steering adjustment motors located?

Thxs


Posted

Just to add that I believe the fuse in question was located in the drivers footwell labelled TI/TE if I recall.

As far as I can tell there was just one 20 amp fuse, so if like me either in/out or up/done work then it is unlikely to be the fuse.

Next thing will be to remove the steering column bits and try to manually adjust and lubricate the up/down motor. Hopefully that will free it, otherwise a new motor that frankly will be uneconomical for such an old car - what a pain!

Posted

Be interested to see how that goes, as I want to manually adjust the in/out on mine and then leave it as it is. If you can some pictures would be great.

All the best with it.

Posted

Took off the cover 3 x screws, nice and easy, expected to see the threads for the up/down motor, but it was all rather hidden.

It then seems from reading around that you have to remove the metal cover using the Allen keys, but it wasn't clear if you needed to remove the indicator housing etc and if just 2 Allen key bolts need removing or 4?

I loosened all 4 but wasn't confident enough to remove anything to give me better access to the motor and threads, so I reassembled and did a bit of research. It does look as if you could try and turn the threads by removing the small C clip at the back of the threads and using pliers to grip and turn. However, it is clearly more involved and better access to the motor will mean removing more.

I can't believe how expensive new motors are - the price is rediculous and in no way justified. It's almost a third of the likely value of my old LS430, so I will either learn to live with it, or risk breaking something removing more from the steering column to try and free up the motor. There are second hand parts from a breakers, but who wants to risk £100 plus the hassle of fitting only to find that it fails? 

Posted

Seems you don't really have much choice. It's either pay extortionate, stupid prices for new or get used and take a chance. It's always the same with older cars in general but especially the prestige marques.

There's a whole steering column on eBay for £90 with 30 days warranty on it. Looking at the pictures may help you to visualise where stuff is on yours to lube/adjust it. Or there's individual motors here

I know it's not the same thing but we used to have a Nissan Maxima QX 3.0 V6 SE Plus Auto that needed a new oil pan. The photos below show a pressed steel, black enameled roasting tin that we bought at Argos or somewhere for £3.99. It has a couple of holes in the rim (but I don't know what for) and it's great for roasting joints of beef, lamb or whatever. The other photo shows a pressed steel, black enameled sump pan. Ok, it's got some nice cross-hatching on that appears to serve no purpose whatsoever and it's got a few more holes in the rim - but I really do NOT see anything that justifies the £167.99 we had to pay for it because I couldn't find one at a breakers at the time.

I was absolutely incandescent with rage at such a rip-off and wrote to the CEO of Nissan UK to express my feelings but just got a standard letter back stating the high cost of warehousing and what the poor dears have to go through to hold spares for all the huge ranges of vehicles they supply etc., etc. Load of carp as we all know.

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SAM_0985.JPG

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Pics taken at the weekend show the up/down motor after the 2 x lower Allen key style bolts either side of the column had been removed.

I then found that by removing the pushin electric connection and unscrewing the lock washer (single small Allens key style screw) that I could turn and adjust the position of the motor which has clearly seized.

I stopped short of removing it completely, this would have meant removing the smaller c-clip at the back of the threads not in view. Perhaps when removed I could try and free it up, so I may have another go again next weekend.

With a couple of spins I adjusted the height position, so now all reconnected the wheel goes in and out okay, but now is the right height for to to drive and getting in and out, I no longer scuff my thighs.

Should I completely remove and get it working fully again I will let you know.

Got a quote for new motor delivered from Lexus £396 and as mentioned above thats's almost criminal!

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Finally took a punt on a salvaged spare tilt motor on eBay uk with 3month warranty.

It was priced at £75 but I got it for just £70. It arrived for free next day and was in great condition together with connecting wires that I was not expecting.

An hour later fitted and everything working as new.

Just one scare when the tiny C-Clip went missing. It was on the drivers side floor carpet but so small I couldn't see it.

Be careful not to lose this, as there is a danger when removing the clip and replacing it, that it could ping off into the hidden areas of the dash never to be seen again.

I don't know why I waited so long for what is a straight forward task. 6m Allen key, screwdriver and pair of pliers are the only tools needed.

  • Like 3

Posted

Many thanks for this excellent report.

My telescopic motor was replaced at 11years/82,000 miles by the main agent selling the car so I will be returning here when the tilt motor packs up.

Have you been tempted to play with the original motor? A diagnosis of how it actually failed perhaps.

Posted

A very good report. Is it possible to remove the steering column shroud and then see the in/out thread, and give it enough turns with a spanner to pull it out about 2 inches. That would solve everything for me.

Posted

I posted pictures of this a while ago.  Yes,  2 separate motors and the in/out one can be turned with a 10mm spanner on the square section of the threaded part.

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