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Posted
31 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

:whistling: Yes that is right... no need to invent the bike when it is already done + it is much harder than it looks and it takes a lot more time than in video, you literally need to push quite hard.

Yeah can imagine sanding glass does sound like it will need some fair pressure, I will wait for you to master it then take a go on mine ;-)

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 9/29/2016 at 11:54 AM, dougie175 said:

Yeah can imagine sanding glass does sound like it will need some fair pressure, I will wait for you to master it then take a go on mine ;-)

Small update on this topic. Findings:

1. Pads are great, but I suggest to buy all grades. I believe they marked as something between GP150, 100, 50, 20.. (nobody know what that stands for, but 150 is the coarsest and 20 is the lightest). They are expensive, but that is the point - you don't want to waste wrong grade pads e.g. trying to get deep scratch out with too light grade pad.

2. The polishing paste I have is rubbish.. I have spent 3 charges on drill polishing one square like 50x50mm with no results. It does have some cerium oxide in it, but clearly not enough. I used Gtechnic N1 paste with better results and it is not event meant for glass polishing. 

So don't use this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Polishing-Compound-Solution-Cerium-Suspended/dp/B005M273TM/ref=sr_1_50?srs=1740357031&ie=UTF8&qid=1480165006&sr=8-50

Try something else:

maybe - https://www.amazon.co.uk/grams-Cerium-Oxide-Polishing-Powder/dp/B005HVETW2/ref=sr_1_66?srs=1740357031&ie=UTF8&qid=1480165065&sr=8-66

So that is my next step - find the paste or powder, which actually can polish the glass.

  • 5 months later...
Posted
On ‎26‎/‎11‎/‎2016 at 0:58 PM, Linas.P said:

Small update on this topic. Findings:

1. Pads are great, but I suggest to buy all grades. I believe they marked as something between GP150, 100, 50, 20.. (nobody know what that stands for, but 150 is the coarsest and 20 is the lightest). They are expensive, but that is the point - you don't want to waste wrong grade pads e.g. trying to get deep scratch out with too light grade pad.

2. The polishing paste I have is rubbish.. I have spent 3 charges on drill polishing one square like 50x50mm with no results. It does have some cerium oxide in it, but clearly not enough. I used Gtechnic N1 paste with better results and it is not event meant for glass polishing. 

So don't use this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Polishing-Compound-Solution-Cerium-Suspended/dp/B005M273TM/ref=sr_1_50?srs=1740357031&ie=UTF8&qid=1480165006&sr=8-50

Try something else:

maybe - https://www.amazon.co.uk/grams-Cerium-Oxide-Polishing-Powder/dp/B005HVETW2/ref=sr_1_66?srs=1740357031&ie=UTF8&qid=1480165065&sr=8-66

So that is my next step - find the paste or powder, which actually can polish the glass.

Did you ever get any further with this been off the forum for a long time but interested if you managed to remove all evidence of scratches in the end? Thanks

  • Like 1
Posted

Never found strong enough polish paste to get fine scratches out. Ordered another paste which meant for professional use from the same supplier, but never tried actual cerium oxide powder... Or I simply do not have enough force to push against windshield for long enough. One way or another - if that is a mark of say 5x5cm it might be a feasible option, but if we talking about entire windshield or entire side windows - forget it. I have repaired 2 stone chips on windshield later... and all worked well except I made too large (~10x10cm) "blend in area" which I guess on the glass stupid in itself and then I struggled to polish the bits out.

It kind of worked out, but because I know where were the areas I can spot micro scratches there. I could not see them while driving from inside - which I guess is good enough for the windshield, but it isn't 100% fine surface.  

  • Like 1

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