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Posted

Ahhhh, I'm pretty sure you'll find that one of your clippy things will not be making a firm contact. This is often the case where the two wires are of slightly different gauge. The clip then seems to make a firm contact on the thicker wire and a dodgy connection to the other.

It always causes a controversial exchange of messages but I like the old-fashioned solder and soldering iron and actually don't support any other method for joins in our kits. If you read through our various threads a common factor in miss-wiring has been the clips.

I fully understand your reticence in diving into the door liner. The car is so finely engineered that you feel that the liner will break because of the force you're applying to get it off. However, if you want the kit to work properly, you are going to have to bite the bullet and pull off the liner. BTW, I've never broken one of the speed clips so far.

Please report back to the thread with your results. I'm sure others will be interested to know how you get on.

Michael

Posted

Just adding to my reply and noting that you want to test the control module via the hole where the door Control Panel sits.

That should be an okay method provided the control module stays connected to the harness. Use a very fine point on your multimeter probe so you actually make contact with the Po-40 wires. Take care not to bridge accidentally any of the wires.

Having said all that, your safest and best possible result will be when you take the plastic liner off the door..

Also you comment About the motor working after a downpour. I wonder if you are not getting enough voltage to the mirrors and the water just acts as a lubricant and making less demand on the available current??

I quite often source the 12v from the car's blue cable that goes to the puddle light instead of picking up elsewhere

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