Fixing Lexus Se-l 2009

[jackcramerr]

here is the video that will explain what I meant by pin not rotating and bracket moving. here I should impact marks with my finger. suggest how bad they are please.

Would it help if I soak it over few days in some oil (please suggest one ). I want to teach this b@itch a lesson.

[johnatg]

Yep - classic.

Give up - don't waste any more time. You will never get the caliper off the pin.

The pin has come unscrewed (partially) from the bracket. I can't just make it out in the video, but you can see the end of the pin on the opposite side of the bracket. When you waggle the caliper you'll see the end move relative to the bracket. The threaded part of the pin has a much reduced diameter relative to the main part of the pin. Cut the dust seal off and cut through the pin with an angle grinder with a metal cutting blade. If you haven't got one, take it to a local garage or engineering shop - it will take them 5 minutes to cut through the pin.

You'll need an exchange caliper, pins and dust seals. Preferably for both sides.

The caliper doesn't look too bad - it might well be acceptable for exchange. If not, you'll just forfeit about £30 deposit.

[jackcramerr]

She won't forget it.

[jackcramerr]

I cleaned all the parts and polished the pin with mirror finish and the chamber. Looking at it all I am wondering if I can get away with using this caliper. I removed the piston as well to see if there is any rust. it looks in good condition.

I will replace the dust seal and am wondering if I should replace the oil seal... because the kits I can buy online ... I wonder if they are as good as the original ring seal that is inside. the original one looks good. no sign of leaks. I will be replacing the dust seal since I poked a hole in it my mistake.

anything I should be concerned about ? I have painted the caliper as well... nothing better to do on Sunday so did all this .

[madasahatter]

If you think its serviceable definetly replace all seal with new silly not to really. Well done you

[johnatg]

Since you've got this far (and certainly proved your patience!) it would be worth getting a caliper service kit - brakeparts.co.uk sell them for £11.48 (+ post) - includes all seals. Repalce them all and your caliper should be (almost!) as good as new.

[madasahatter]

Thats a good price for a service kit a lot cheaper than a caliper for sure, where are they based.

[johnatg]

Rochdale - they have a good online service - and they are a real shop with loads of stock - I've bought stuff there for numerous cars both online and physically in the shop, over quite a few years.

[madasahatter]

Thats nice to know i have book marked the page for future referance.

[johnatg]

BTW - brakeparts.co.uk mostly sell stuff from Brake Engineering - a business based in Wrexham - they are a major brake component manufacture and refurbishment operation - owned by TRW Automotive Aftermarket. (They don't sell retail)

So they sell 'standard' stuff - great for calipers, service kits, standard discs and pads - all that sort of thing, but they don't do your upgraded items such as drilled discs and performance pads.

[madasahatter]

Have used drilled and grooved discs did not rate them at all to be honest,bloody noisy things and brake judder.

Must admit been very impressed with the brakes on the lexus.

[toffee_pie]

mine are grooved and vented and have no problems, only great stopping power. If you bed them in properly and install them they should be fine.

certainly no grinding noises on mine.

[madasahatter]

Well its each to there own mate i tried them bedded in for 500 mls couldnt wait to take them off, having said that they were on a octavia vrs

with over 245 bhp.

[toffee_pie]

dont see how 245hp over 205hp or whatever would make any difference. Mine only grinded for the first early miles on them, 5 or 10 miles or so. If I thought they would be like an angle grinder I would not have got them.

[jackcramerr]

BTW putting back the dust boot on was a big pain.

I had ordered the kit from brake parts. Co .UK . The dust boot for the lower pin is wrong so I am going to use the old one. It might have swelled due to wd40 but I don't have a choice. Not replacing the upper pin dust boot since the oem looks better quality. Not replacing the piston ring for that matter. Only thing replaced will be the dust boot for piston . It was a pain getting it on and none of the Internet method worked for me. ironically I asked someone non technical with arts skill for suggestion and that person found a new method and did it in 2 min's. No special tools just a hair clip.

Painting the caliper was also a waste of time since one can't properly clean it unless sand blast it and I didn't sand blast it. this resulted in paint coming off. Also UK weather doesn't permit drying of any kind of paint.

I haven't installed the caliper yet.

[madasahatter]

Thats a real shame mate nothing worse than wrong parts coming.

[jackcramerr]

guys were is the rear jacking point... I am confused.

[toffee_pie]

I reckon you should take it to a garage tbh, have you reconditioned the caliper?

[jackcramerr]

caliper is done and on the car now. Just wanted to confirm the jacking point for the middle of the car so I can support it better since I will be bleeding it. Can't take it to a garage in this condition lol. Worst come I can do bleeding with only one jack under the car and a tyre.

[toffee_pie]

see here.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/450875-lift-points-on-is250.html

if the caliper is ready to go on, go for it. And take your time.

[toffee_pie]

there is a pdf on the 2nd page

[jackcramerr]

thanks toffee. The guy asks in second page about location. To answer that is it a ye's then ? jack goes on the differential box ? I will need to use a piece of wood for that since it is not even surface. has sort of fins like heat sink. I think that's where differential oil is at...

Just behind this is a cross member. Need all this for future work.

I got the caliper on and did a bleed on this one side only. brakes seem good. I wonder if I really need to do a complete bleed if I don't see an issue.

Also this caliper issue. Is it a weakness on the front as well? Do I need to grease them ? Have to check service history of when last lexis checked them but generally how often should one check them?

[toffee_pie]

definately grease the slider pins of the front also, i imagine they should be done every 10 or 15k miles perhaps to mitigate this from happening.

[jackcramerr]

OK will try to do it. I wonder if this is lexus specific issue because I have never heard doing such type of maintanance on a service schedule...

Is there a list of service and maintanance I have to follow for lexus?

[johnatg]

Greasing the slider pins is not on the Lexus schedule - that doesn't mean it isn't vital. And it's not just a Lexus problem - most cars have slider pins these days and they all need to be kept clean and greased. My MX-5 is just the same (and just as prone to suffer seized pins) as the Lexus.

Some cars are worse than others - I guess due to slight differnces in design and efficiency of the seals. Most japanese cars are pretty similar to the Lexus.

I don't think I've seen 'dismantle, clean and grease slider pins' on any manufacturer's service schedule. Something I can't explain!

There are plenty of on-line sources of IS250 service schedules - do a google search for 'IS250 maintenance schedule'.

Here's the US official Lexus version - the schedules are quite a long way through the document (P50 onwards). It's just as relevant for UK. And I don't think there are really any significant differences between model years.

http://www.lexus.com/pdf/service/MY11_Lexus_IS_250_IS_250C_WSG.pdf

And add 'dismantle, clean and grease brake slider pins, front and rear'! At least annually/10000 mile intervals.