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Posted

The slot really doesn't matter much. Pagid pads are fine.

Posted

guys need advise live. Driver side rear brake caliper does not pivot out. the rear pin is stuck. rear pin has no head so can't move it. what are the options ? Asked someone to get me a bigger hammer and waiting for it now. what else can I do ? thanks.


Posted

Dont hit it with a bigger hammer trying spraying it with a release agent Wd etc,and let it soak in will it not twist at all.

Posted

Be careful with the hammer - if you hit the caliper too hard you will damage it, then you can't p/ex it for a replacement which you may well need. Disconnect the hydraulic hose and remove the whole caliper and bracket and work on it on a bench.

The pin is a screw fit in the bracket - it may well turn rather than the caliper turn on the pin. You just have to adapt techniques to get the caliper off - if in doubt, take the assembly to a garage. It may need a combination of heat, cold (Halfords Shock and Unlock is a freeze sparay and it works wonders), penetrating oil and violence.

But remember the caliper must be undamaged if you want to exchange it.

Lexus did do a value deal where they sold you the caliper and bracket as an assembly at a much reduced price (outright, not an exchange) - I think people have had mixed success in getting that deal. Good Luck!

Posted

thanks. It's a job for tomorrow. I think I need a penetrative oil... any recommendation?

The lower pin does not screw in. It does not have a head as well. It is not part of the caliper assembly I think. I opened the other side very easily and it slid out leaving the lower pin in place. only had to remove the upper pin which was a size 19 and screwed in.

I have freezer spray. So I spray it on the caliper assembly where the lower pin is ? I will be surprised if it works. .. I thought heat works...

I hammered it a little and now it pivots but not a fully. And still I can't get it out so tomorrow I will hammer it from the side such that blow is towards the car.

Rubbish neighbours don't let me finish the job and complain... new car has caught eyes of people. I will take the car to work and do it in parking space there.

Posted

The heat will work - if you have a plumbers torch then that will be ideal as the flame is small and you can control it better.

It takes time and patience to free it. Its more than likely a lot of grease and dirt build up rather than its rusted in place. Tap it back and forward (left and right) while applying the heat but don't hit it hard - as soon as it starts to free up you will be able to move it by hand until it comes out.


Posted

Plus Gas is the standard penetrating oil - works fine, and much better than things like WD40, although that might be worth a try.

I can assure you that the pin is screwed into the bracket - it has a hex socket in its head. You can't see that until you've got the caliper off. That's irrelevant unless it comes unscrewed - then it's very difficult to apply 'torque' to the joint between caliper and pin because there's no way of holding the pin still without damaging it. On one side you are effectively tightening the pin whilst trying to rotate the caliper, so no problem, but on the other side you are unscrewing the pin as you rotate the caliper - I can't remember which side is which or work it out at this time on a Friday night!!!

The freeze spray is just a different way of applying 'heat' - kinda in reverse. It is less likely to cause damage than a torch. Remember you've got inflammable brake fluid around and if the whole thing catches fire you'll damage the seals in the caliper. I'd prefer to use a heat gun (preferably the paint stripping kind) but each to his own. What you are trying to do is to create a temperature difference between the seized parts so that expansion or contraction 'breaks the seal'.

It's encouraging that you have managed to move it a little - patience is a virtue in this situation!

Posted

thanks guys. Patience is what I have to learn. your advise of patience speaks of experience and is encouraging.

I had to hit it hard a few times since a small hammer and wood block wasn't doing anything. keep doing this for 30 minutes till I gave up and bought a big hammer.

It was as if it is welded. I will use WD40 tomorrow and resume the work. will report live.

The lower pin is like a stud but with no threads. see the picture of the rear passage side. it just slides out without any effort. I couldn't see hex head but I will take your word for it . I don't have to do anything with this bolt I. e. unscrew it for my purpose right ?

Yes I am avoiding heating it. I have a heavy duty heat gun but no blow tourch.

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Posted

haven't given up yet toffee. Just waiting for the rain to halt then I resume and re evaluate. Hoping fresh mind will come with better ideas.

Posted

Yes best way that mate had a night mare job recently we all want them doing now, this is what happens when people cant be bothered to spend a little time twice a year greasing parts up and making sure every thing works as is.

Posted

oh and sad news for me is that pin is not moving. it's the bracket that is moving.

When I purchase a new caliper does it come with pin rubber boot and bracket ? I don't think it's possible for bracket to come out without damage-

Posted

u can get calipers for not too expensive prices on line, away from Lexus i mean.

Posted

Don't really understand what you mean by 'the bracket is moving' - the bracket is fixed to the hub carrier very securely with two bolts. The pin screws into the bracket - it doesn't have a head - just a socket for an allen key in the end away from the bracket - but you can't see it until the caliper is off. If the caliper won't come off, the solution is to cut the pin with an angle grinder. You should then be able to remove the remains of the pin from the bracket - it helps if you have enough sticking out of the bracket to get hold of with some sort of grips. Get new pins and exchange the caliper - they won't mind if it's got half the old pin stuck in it as long as it's otherwise undamaged.

Note that there are two types of caliper - for vented and solid discs. Yours are vented.

You should change both rear calipers - you shouldn't do brake work or replace components on one side only. But people do.

Lexus sell calipers complete with bracket etc, but exchange calipers from factors such as brakeparts.co.uk are just the caliper. The pins are separate items - it's worth replacing both top and bottom pins and dust seals. I guess Lexus sell them, but I got mine from Rock Auto.

It's worth seeing if a Lexus dealer will offer a good price deal for complete caliper/bracket assemblies.

Posted

few hours of beating. freezing it and then hot air gun. still nothing. 4lb hammer. I don't think it can be ever opened. hammering eventually left marks due to benchwise. So not keeping this assembly any more.

Now I am hoping if I can get a caliper with the bracket. I will call lexus on Monday.

Car is sitting without brakes. I submerged the brake line in DOT5.1 oil bottle I had. It will survive rain I think.

Also called kwikfit for advise and they said get a new assembly as they had hard time removing the bracket and weren't successful. No local garage is open on a Saturday. I will post pictures of the beaten up caliper in a while to mock it cause it sure made fun of my efforts.

Posted

Don't feel bad - that's about par for the course!

If you can get a new bracket/caliper assembly from Lexus at a decent price - that's the best option. Otherwise, cut the pin and save the bracket - they will be ridiculously expensive alone.

Then get a replacement caliper (eg brakeparts.co.uk) - you may well have to forfeit the surcharge - I know what these calipers look like after a heavy hammer has been near them! And you'll need pins.

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