Cam Belt Change: Good Start But Now Stuck...

[cruisermark]

Hi

Well a big thanks to you all for your interest and support plus advice!

Bluesman, The Acre and Titch-LS, Mikael - thanks for your latest posts, much appreciated.

Suppose I'd better think about tackling something else!

Best wishes

Simon

well done for such an achievement - now you need a few days to straighten your back!

[Loathecliff]

One is in awe Simon. Have a knighthood from me!

Some years ago I read 'Have you a weekend to spare' & sent the link to a few equally aging car enthusiast friends for their amusement.

Now I own one of the darned things; & I bought it after rejecting the idea of a S-type!

May I ask which is your favoured S-type forum please? :)

[Malc]

..... I think your feat of endurance and success is brilliant . undertaking such a momentous task .....

Now I guess there's a good deal of appreciation for why changing the cambelt etc with a garage is so darned expensive.

When I had my Mk1 " done " , many years ago now, the local garage actually took one whole working day to achieve the end result even tho' the " book hours " then by Lexus was only about 3hrs or summat

Malc

[Titch LS]

The lovely S-type is well known for a little dash light that comes on and says " My auto-box is hurting". Chap at work had this and got rid quick.

[Tinonline]

One is in awe Simon. Have a knighthood from me!

Some years ago I read 'Have you a weekend to spare' & sent the link to a few equally aging car enthusiast friends for their amusement.

Now I own one of the darned things; & I bought it after rejecting the idea of a S-type!

May I ask which is your favoured S-type forum please? :)

Hi Brian

My fave forum is jaguarforum.com where I've been for a few years with my S & XKR which I got shot off.

Later S types have the amazing 4.2 engine but you have a high potential for broken 6 speed ZF gearboxes...also fitted to 2003 on XK's and BMWs and Range Rovers.

S Type Common faults: suspension bushes, links, gearboxes (it's very common, not just a rumour...), coil on plugs.

Pre 03 gearboxes are Ford so smaller issues: plastic change gate unit (now replaced by metal) breaks up, auto gearshift cable jams up, slow changes - needs a couple of new solenoids. All have expensive gearbox oil change requirements - not an easy job as the oil has to be heated through the process. Aircon pipe...only Jag sourced and an absolute *** to fit - leaks like a tea bag.

4ltr engines leak oil from cam gaskets into plugs holes. Majority of parts well priced and available.

I'd like a late XKR or S Type R to replace wife's S.

I've noticed some the latest Lexus sporting models looking a little Jag like!

[Tinonline]

The lovely S-type is well known for a little dash light that comes on and says " My auto-box is hurting". Chap at work had this and got rid quick.

Titch

Yep, post 03 it's the ZF meccano set, really rubbish. Nothing like as good as a Lexus box. Earlier Ford ones have a few issues but are cheaper to fix.

Jags are very quick but I tell you what, with faster gearchanges they would be barnstorming. Kick-down and wait for the rocket...way too slow. If you drive them in the peak torque band, the "R"s particularly, they are too fast on anything but a clear motorway.

I'm interested in comparing the power curve of my S with the LS as the LS really has strong pull in mid to top range and both my son and I feel the S is slightly asthmatic, dropping off whilst it's fractionally quicker off the mark.

[Tinonline]

Postscipt

I did my Reading Swansea/return journey yesterday.

Brian, aka Titch-LS and Ambermarine had warned me about filling the coolant through the hex plug at the front of the engine - so taking the advice I did this. I couldn't fill the system full this way as the level/fluid backed up to the reservoir tank. So when it got to over the minimum line in the resevoir tank I called it a day and refitted the hex plug.

The heating worked straight away. I topped the level up to the max mark via the reservoir tank. I test drove the car a few local miles, it took a while to warm up through this process. The level dropped to between the min and max. But I let it cool right down to cold before rechecking and topping up. Again it dropped again following another run. The same amount. Left overnight to cool.

The following morning - day of the journey, I topped up to the max. On arriving at destination I did a quick check - all ok.

I'm sure the idle is crisper, engine is quiet and very smooth. On the return I stretched the engine a little more...nice!

Checked the fluid level this morning - bang on.

[Titch LS]

Simon, I must admit, I've always admired Jags and would love to drive an XJR one day, but not to keep. I prefer less hassle reliability wise, with my nice LS.

[Titch LS]

Simon, glad to hear that the car is running great after the test drive. Relax and enjoy.

[Tinonline]

Things you might like to know...de-brief from the Cam Belt, pulleys, drive belt pulleys change:

A couple of forums have this as a 9/10 and a not for the faint hearted.

Well, if you are a regular DIY mechanic it’s a 4-5 peaking storm force when things are not what they seem!

It is about confidence and persistence when the annoyances appear becuase it's an OK project.

Once you have done it - you could slash the hours/effort off it.

1) You don’t have to remove the radiator or loosen the aircon compressor

You might want to tape a thin layer cardboard across the rad to add protection when you get past removing the fan components. Rad in situ does make undoing and going the fan bolts more fiddly.

2) The big stuff is really quite straight forward - even the timing. If the cam snap rolls, use the old belt to put it back to where you want it. If it springs backwards when you are moving it back, best use a socket and ratchet to ever so slowly, little as possible
nudge it clockwise. Slow as you can and it won’t snap roll. If you have the tool - great or not - so what. Slowly and it won’t roll or spin a bit.

3) Don’t take the plugs out, engine turns just fine.

4) I missed a wide pair of pliers for those bloomin rad hose clips. Horrible and getting the hoses disconnected. (See what I mean it’s the silly stuff again).

5) The electrical connectors were awful - took far too long and a pta (See silly stuff). Poor design.

6) Crank bolt if CORRECTLY torqued and not previously removed and replaced by a bloody gun, will be one of the easiest tasks on the planet. If it’s over torqued by a gun, you may need a gun to get it off. Or the starter method. I used the allen key in the flywheel and this, apart from my own idiocy on refitting, was the best way. Don’t use anything small...big as poss and you will be fine. My small allen key took a trip around the flywheel before luckily popping down to where I could retrieve it.

7) I read across the pond “yeh simple with a set of spanners” on removing the fan pulley bracket. There are fibs, fibs and well our friends across the pond. Should be simple but it is not. You have little clearance for the top 14mm bolt. Putting it back...tighten up beyond loose, nice and firm...grease up the 14mm’s a little and do those last. I used a small 1/4 drive ratchet and socket. A spanner is doable but use a cloth to protect your hands. That bolt has more turns that a comedian.

8) The electrical connector bracket attached to the fan bracket/ac pump is such a poor idea it beggars belief. Secured by x2 Phillips head small electrical bolts - they are well torqued and stuck and very difficult to get at. Best replaced by small hex headed nuts and not at such a torque. If you strip the toughest one to get at either don’t use the bracket next time around but secure the wiring differently (carefully of course and as or more securely) or cut the head with a hacksaw to accept a flat blade to give you greater leverage. Unbelievable. My 1/4 ratchet to the rescue with screwdriver blades inserted into a 1/4 socket.

9) You think you have researched, oh yes from all over the place. You think you are following the steps. You find yourself deluded/mistaken/over interpreting a single source say over the instructions. Or you lose your confidence. Or both.

Hint: Fit the cambelt without the drop-down tensioner to the pulley fitted. I saw photos with it there...don’t pull the pin they said. Well the belt won’t fit with it in position. When the belt is on, that’s when you fit the tensioner and torque it’s bolts up evenly, sharing the turns. That belt will be so tight you’ll pull that pin expecting something to happen? The pin nearly falls out! Nil resistance!
Sure obvious, I know. The Gates kit came with instructions...that bit I relied too little on them.

10) Thanks to posts from Lexus comrades, I had plenty of help and encouragement. Hammer and block of wood removes stuck inlet and water pump. That was great advice and gave the confidence to use apply considered and appropriate force.

11) It’s all the silly stuff that causes so much grief.

12) Don’t expect all the fan bracket bolts to fit flush...there’s one that does not! That’s the one that has to secure the plastic cover: left - centre...if you don’t have the cover in hand or to mind.

13) I was always advised that a thin bead of sealant is adequate for mating services. One of the best tutorials shown, has it slapped on like salad cream. When you are using a gasket anyway this does worry me. You want to preserve the olerances/clearances but most of all we don’t want sealant debris in our system. You can brush it flat with your finger (gloved) and remove the excess where you can. Thin bead is enough.

14) Personal preference: on new rubber seals I use silicone grease. Good for the rubber, seats the joint and sub aqua divers swear by it.

15) I know nothing. Different folk will find different challenges. If you are experienced, this will be a walk in the park. That’s how I would feel should I tackle the same project again.

16) OEM or not to OEM is your choice. There's plenty of reasonable to good quality after market to suit all budgets. That what it comes down to: budgets...with a bit of preference. These are sadly, service items...no good having a timeless part when all around it will be dead or failing in a few miles or years. When Lexi are classics and worth loads, that’s the time to fit OEM.

17) Definately refill the coolant via the hex nut at top front of the engine, it's slow and keep going until you fill the main bottle to a good level. Topping up thereafter is minimal and the level won't dive down and suck more air in! Pink is the new red: good quality OATS fluid is fine.

It’s not helpful listening to single accounts of “this part from x failing after x and that part from y.” You would need the full comparative stats to even be able to assess the value/difference/reliability. There are poor batches, one off failures...or manufacture-wide failures, as we are all too aware of. I could not have done this without this Forum and the US Lexus forum where there are great and skilful enthusiasts, helping people like me do what we should probably not be doing...but doing it well and safely I am certain. The encouragement and following makes a big difference.

Tools: my best friends were torque wrenches. My good old 1/2 drive socket set, 1/4 drive and assorted oddments that helped me problem solve.

Bagging up bits and labelling is useful and does not take much time.

Still what bolt goes where can be annoying especially at the final stages of putting it all back together.

I’d do a faster job next time around!