Cam Belt Change: Good Start But Now Stuck...

[cruisermark]

my hat goes off to you for attempting this - the most i have done on my LS is replace the brake pads

would it help if you googles for some images of the Lexus LS400 cambelt and looked at them for guidance to ensure you have the belt routed correctly?

[Tinonline]

I think belt guide on the bottom crankshaft pulley goes on after you have placed the belt on all the pulleys .If you have reassembled it before placing the belt it won't go on ,is this the case?

Hi Mark

From the destructions I have it's CR sprocket first/route around the tensioner & idler pulleys loosely/LH cam belt&turn to tension belt/RH cam...had the nerve to state "keep the belt taught!" Then after checking timing pull the pin on the tensioner.

I had a late go but it's not a matter of strength - it's very close but given one should not stretch it (yeh right) or twist it.

I have though of gentle oven heat but that's not ideal but it might give me a bit of initial pliability to get on without actually stretching it or altering it - that's a last resort.

I think it's back to the tensioner and see if I can get it on that way! :hocus-pokus:

[ambermarine]

Hi Simon

Just to lighten things up a bit ,The instruction to" pull the pin "sounds very scary. Good Luck.

[Tinonline]

Update...and a few confessions...

No it's too tight and won't go on...no getting around that. Tried the tensioner pulley removal and jiggle...nope that bolt won't play as it needs to be spoilt and won't play otherwise.

Wait a minute...if I take the tensioner out, the drop down one...although the pin is still in it, the hook like beak of the tensioner pulley can drop further into the hole left by said tensioner. Took unit out undoing the two bolts and drawing it clear.

Perfect! It worked. Nice tight fit! This gave the clearance I needed. Leave the tensioner unit until last.

That's my first confession: number in instructions is number 11...fitting the belt. Only defence is I was going off a photo tutorial step by step and my interpretation was that it was installed prior the belt fitting.

Everything lined up and looked good after two rotations of the crank - I'd put the cover and pulley back on.

Second confession and tadpole brain of the month winner.

It came to re-torqing the crank bolt. Well my trusty massive allen key that had served so well on the undoing, this time was not wedging. Everytime I turned the crank out it clattered. It would not fit into the hole as I'm sure it had done initially and no slight turning made any difference.

I'll try a sturdy smaller allen key: after all the torque has all but gone at the fly wheel end surely. I bottled out with the first one as I was sure it would snap so covered in dust and looking for my torch that allways runs away when I need it and took a decent steel allen key and wedged it in. Gently turning it I felt it lock and heard it. I tested it with a test pull and with a "thwack" but no tinkle of dropping allen key the crank moved.

I can only report a complete state of panic at this stage. The allen key had gone, yes into the flywheel housing. No trace.

I slowly turned the crank back and checked again, then again. Nothing. I couldn't see it or prod at it...no idea. I turned the crank clockwise and felt some resistance other than compression and heard a clunk. Still nothing to see. Well I don't know what to do at this stage - I mean what do you do?

Might as well carry on and after a revolution (I suppose) of the flywheel there was a clatter. Sadly there was nothing on the floor.

But...there was the shiny glint of one end of the allen key hanging over the edge! Taking plenty of time I pulled it out. Phew.

Of course it would have helped if I had put the allen key in the correct side in reverse of previous procedure...

Quite an eventful morning all in all.

I checked the timing, all looks good. Pulled the pin - which came out without any resistance. Retorqued the crank bolt.

Now I need a break! :luck:

[ambermarine]

Great job .

[Malc]

..... don't drink decaff coffee . u need the caffeine this time around ...... well done

Malc

[Tinonline]

Another sticking point - and an annoying one too.

Getting the fan bracket back on was a great fiddle.

Clearly w/p gasket metal and sealant were interfering with the progress of the 3x12mm bolts.

The top left bracket bolt snapped I was removing it as I was not happy with the interferance and inability to tighten up. This time I am not so lucky.

The thread part of the long 12mm bolt is not visible and is inside the water pump housing.

Few questions:

1) This bracket is not going anywhere and is also secured by many 14mm bolts, well torqued. Should I accept it and continue until w/p is replaced next time?

2) Strip everything back down and get an engineer's skill to clear it?

3) The bolt goes into an insert in the w/p housing. Is there a tool I can use to remove the embedded stud...without damage to the water pump...and without being able to see what's left of it?

My gut feel is leave it until next water pump change, not ideal, not my preference either but I'm thinking of practicality.

Be good to hear your vote.

[Titch LS]

Simon, It's not ideal but I think you would be ok to leave it. I once stripped a thread on a waterpump on a Honda V6 engine. I left it like that and relied on all the other bolts to do their job when torquing it back up. It never leaked a single drop after that. You could put some gasket sealant in there to help hold things in place. Loctite for instance.

[Tinonline]

Simon, It's not ideal but I think you would be ok to leave it. I once stripped a thread on a waterpump on a Honda V6 engine. I left it like that and relied on all the other bolts to do their job when torquing it back up. It never leaked a single drop after that. You could put some gasket sealant in there to help hold things in place. Loctite for instance.

Brian

Hi and thanks for this, really appreciate it. I slept on it and had another look. The reason I over did the bolt as I had not factored it going over a small cover too...oh dear. From a safety point of view the main work is done by x4 14mm bolts/nuts.

I might be able to use a 12mm trim clip to offer a firmer fit to that part of the plastic cover.

I will leave as is. So it wasn't the sealant or gasket remanants after all.

This morning I fitted the rear under tray, took out the Battery for charging as it was flat. And fitted and torqued the fan bracket.

I'm waiting on the drive belt tensioner and driver belt idler pulley due soon I hope. Then I can complete the job.

All good fun. :winky:

[The-Acre]

Simon, It's not ideal but I think you would be ok to leave it. I once stripped a thread on a waterpump on a Honda V6 engine. I left it like that and relied on all the other bolts to do their job when torquing it back up. It never leaked a single drop after that. You could put some gasket sealant in there to help hold things in place. Loctite for instance.

Brian

Hi and thanks for this, really appreciate it. I slept on it and had another look. The reason I over did the bolt as I had not factored it going over a small cover too...oh dear. From a safety point of view the main work is done by x4 14mm bolts/nuts.

I might be able to use a 12mm trim clip to offer a firmer fit to that part of the plastic cover.

I will leave as is. So it wasn't the sealant or gasket remanants after all.

This morning I fitted the rear under tray, took out the Battery for charging as it was flat. And fitted and torqued the fan bracket.

I'm waiting on the drive belt tensioner and driver belt idler pulley due soon I hope. Then I can complete the job.

All good fun. :winky:

We've all gone out to buy hats so we can take them off to you!

[cruisermark]

Simon, It's not ideal but I think you would be ok to leave it. I once stripped a thread on a waterpump on a Honda V6 engine. I left it like that and relied on all the other bolts to do their job when torquing it back up. It never leaked a single drop after that. You could put some gasket sealant in there to help hold things in place. Loctite for instance.

Brian

Hi and thanks for this, really appreciate it. I slept on it and had another look. The reason I over did the bolt as I had not factored it going over a small cover too...oh dear. From a safety point of view the main work is done by x4 14mm bolts/nuts.

I might be able to use a 12mm trim clip to offer a firmer fit to that part of the plastic cover.

I will leave as is. So it wasn't the sealant or gasket remanants after all.

This morning I fitted the rear under tray, took out the Battery for charging as it was flat. And fitted and torqued the fan bracket.

I'm waiting on the drive belt tensioner and driver belt idler pulley due soon I hope. Then I can complete the job.

All good fun. :winky:

We've all gone out to buy hats so we can take them off to you!

we want see a video of the car running first LOL

[The-Acre]

Simon, It's not ideal but I think you would be ok to leave it. I once stripped a thread on a waterpump on a Honda V6 engine. I left it like that and relied on all the other bolts to do their job when torquing it back up. It never leaked a single drop after that. You could put some gasket sealant in there to help hold things in place. Loctite for instance.

Brian

Hi and thanks for this, really appreciate it. I slept on it and had another look. The reason I over did the bolt as I had not factored it going over a small cover too...oh dear. From a safety point of view the main work is done by x4 14mm bolts/nuts.

I might be able to use a 12mm trim clip to offer a firmer fit to that part of the plastic cover.

I will leave as is. So it wasn't the sealant or gasket remanants after all.

This morning I fitted the rear under tray, took out the Battery for charging as it was flat. And fitted and torqued the fan bracket.

I'm waiting on the drive belt tensioner and driver belt idler pulley due soon I hope. Then I can complete the job.

All good fun. :winky:

We've all gone out to buy hats so we can take them off to you!

we want see a video of the car running first LOL

Good point, I'll put it back in the hat box until we see it running, can't wait, I think I may look good in a panama!

[Tinonline]

OK I'll video it...!

Got the right hand cam cover on and this was fine - needed to fiddle to get the original and optimal routing of the cable that runs from bottom of the block up to the top. I bought a new sliding clip to replace the one I 'assisted' off. The wiring on the soft bracket on the edge of the fan bracket is a bit on the tight side but is not going anywhere.

The inlet was ok going on. The kit came with a gasket for it, so I used some sealant, again used silicone grease for the new O ring (in the kit) and added some sealant around the inlet pipe end - went in very smoothly.

I might use some new clips for the hoses as I'm not sure how good they will be having been loosened. Might as well change them at this stage.

I'm a few days from getting the drive pulleys and have got as far as I can for the time being.

[Tinonline]

The drive tensioner pulley and idler pulley arrived today.

Both are Gates items from RockAuto so I set about getting those on and juggling the black cover with it and the l/h cam wheel cover.

Next time the inlet will go on at the latter stages as it makes it a fiddle all around. The missing bolt/empty hole was plugged with a push fit clip. I ended up replacing a single hose clip. On the larger hoses I used a thin film of clear sealant.

I was ready to go but my Battery (new) gave out again. I'd given it 6 hours slow charge...this time it can stay on overnight. Any more problems and it can go back to the supplier! I set the alarm and with the boot and door open from time to time plus me checking a few things with the ignition on doesn't help.

Just coolant now and fixing the lower engine tray and engine cover and a few bits.

I didn't dare attempt a fire-up without everything connected - I'd prefer to get some coolant in too, not that the flat Battery gave me any options.

Tomorrow!

[Loathecliff]

That Battery wont be any good now Simon, chuck it back anyway.

[Titch LS]

Simon, I take it that you'll refill with coolant via the large hex plug on the top/front of the motor. Some have tried refilling via the coolant tank and wonder why not so much can be put back. That's because you will trap air in the system if you do it that way. Using the hex plug, you won'.t

[Tinonline]

Finished!

Took ages to fill via the plug - it didn't fill up but backed up into the reservoinr tank so as soon as it had hit the minimum mark I put the plug and torqued it up.

Running it got the heating working ok and the level dropped so I filled it up, running it without the reservoir cap on.

Took it for a drive and everything seems very good. The level has dropped again a bit but I'll recheck it when cold.

I detected some noise from left of the engine - alternator/steering pump bearings maybe? You might hear it in the clip. Car runs pretty smoothly though when fully warmed up. Checked for leaks, all seems good.

You wanted the viedeo...here's two. First one is the genuine first time start!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1gad0ytveazs1rm/IMG_0640.MOV?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3wgy76yacnjbdrk/IMG_0642.MOV?dl=0

[Titch LS]

Well done, my son. Bet you're chuffed. By the way,that's nice low mileage you have there too. Filling the coolant via the hex plug does take a while I know, but filling an empty block via the resovoir takes MUCH longer and you end up having to 'burp' the car too. Anyway, I'm glad the job went well and you're back enjoying your LS.

[Bluesman]

Your a bloody genius, I had every faith you would do it. I notice you only live up the road from me might call upon you when mine needs changing. Well done. Mike.

[The-Acre]

Well done that man, I'm off to buy the hat tomorrow, you won't see me taking it off to you as I'll be in the New Forrest, so you'll just have to imagine it! (and no, I won't video it!)

[cleverdick]

Congratulations on a first-rate job!

Out of interest, did you get a chance to inspect the rotor arms/distributor caps? (I'd like to see how they hold up over time.)

Rich

[Titch LS]

Rich, the later mk4 LS doesn't have rotor arms/ distributor caps, they were replaced by a coil pack for each spark plug.

[Tinonline]

Congratulations on a first-rate job!

Out of interest, did you get a chance to inspect the rotor arms/distributor caps? (I'd like to see how they hold up over time.)

Rich

Hi Rich

Thanks - this is a 2000 year so as far as I understand it's all electronic as Brain states. When you take the covers off you are greeted by very little apart from the cam wheels.

My car has done quite a few years of low mileage and stop and start...as mentioned the drive pulleys had bearing wear and although the cam pulleys were in better shape they were ready for replacement in the very near future.

There is nothing designed or fitted for life here that's for sure.

My S type has chains...water pump is a 30 minute job and that's been replaced. (Quality item bought on sale for a £45 snip). Nothing else engine wise, mileage is the same.

Simon

[Mikaelse]

About Life of timing belt. I Just changed it on a 1995 with 95k miles on it. The belt looked ok after 20 years . Would have worked a few more years, However one of the tensioners was pretty dry and made a little noise. Also two of the bearings on the serpentine idler and tensioner was not ok. I saw a unhappy guy here in sweden offering his LS400 1999 in an add with 140k miles on it for scrap money after timing belt failure with valve sallad.

So it does happen. I put a Aisin pump and Mitsuboshi belt in to try to be safe.

[Tinonline]

Hi

Well a big thanks to you all for your interest and support plus advice!

Bluesman, The Acre and Titch-LS, Mikael - thanks for your latest posts, much appreciated.

Suppose I'd better think about tackling something else!

Best wishes

Simon